4" blade when the SHTF !!!

The 3.8"-bladed F-1 is easier on batons than the 5.3" S-1 due to the already noted "false edge" on the S-1. Handles same. Material same. Thickness about same (.180" vs. .197" for S-1)

In theory, something in carbon steel would be less likely to break, but it would be hard to break an F-1 (or S-1).

I give a slight edge to the F-1 in slicing wood and woodier veggies (eg. potatos). Equal for meat.

Many candidates out there - lots of customs, for example.
 
I have both a first and second generation howling rat and I have a RD5 (custom). I also bought a DABA, which I never really got to use because I gave it to my dad. My brother has let me pound on his F1.

My ranger is a good bit heavier than the others because it is a 1/4 inch thick five incher. It is a real tank, but did show some mild signs of rust after one overnight in the everglades during the rainy season. (I was stupid and forgot to oil it).

I like the res-c handle of the first gen howler, it's lighter weight, and the choil is useful for small tasks, but for most tasks I like the choiless design if the gen 2 howler because it does not get caught up on things as easily.

The F1 is also a great knife and cuts just as well as the others. I personally do not like the feel of the handle as much as the others.

I like the thickness and slightly longer length of the RD5 for batoning.

The Busse DABA feels the best in my hand, but like I said I have not yet put it through the paces.

The F1 is supposedly the most corrosion resistant but if the coatings are intact and you properly care for the knife it should not be a problem.

I have not TRIED to break any of these knives. They all have proven track records for toughness, and should handle most tasks you can throw at them.

They each have their little things I like about them but if I had to rank all of these it would have to be:

Busse DABA
and the other four would be tied for second (I know it doesn't help much)
 
The SkunkWerX "Bully" , of course. :)

1/4" thick, 5160

BullyTest5.jpg
 
Swamp Rat Howling Rat Little Mischief (SR-101).

Or Busse Anorexic Badger Attack (INFI).

I'd settle for either if SHTF. The first rides in my day pack on a permanent basis (less expensive in case the pack is stolen). The other emerges when I know I'm going out and about in the wilderness.
 
I would grab either one,
CRK custom skinner "scout"


BILLSEIGELSKINNER2.jpg


or one of my CRK Aviators:thumbup:

aviator4inch-1.jpg
 
his F1.

My ranger is a good bit heavier than the others because it is a 1/4 inch thick five incher. (I was stupid and forgot to oil it).

FWIW, my understanding is that Justin will also make an RD4 with 3/16" instead of 1/4" stock.
 
I would take my Chris Reeves Shadow III.:D This is my edc.

101_0057.jpg


This next image is how i carry my knife and a small psk next to it on my belt

101_0067-1.jpg


Here is what is in the pouch.

101_0054.jpg


Well this is what I would choose. Hope you enjoyed the pictures,
Bryan
 
Bryan, when you say that is your edc, do you mean you actually walk around urban areas with the CR Shadow III in open view like that?
 
Well to be honest, if tshtf i'd hire a day worker off the corner and buy a few disposable mops. :barf: My modest collection of dedicated survival knives, units that go into kits consist of a Camillus service issue survival knife,Linder sailors's knife, a Fallkniven F1, Reeves Aviator, WSI Ranger produced by TOPS. These are all off the shelf production knives, not one of any number of fine one man operations. My first Camillus snapped at the hilt batoning during Arctic Survival School. My disgusted instructor fished out the replacement I have today. Even as a dumb E2 fresh out of bootcamp I figured he wouldn't be around in a true situation to hand out another spare. I've come to actually like many aspects of the knife, but ever aware of the infamous snapping tip and carefull not to stress it to self destruct like it's mate long ago. My second knife, the Linder became my first purchase after a Kodiak Fisherman gifted me a puukko. It served me well on Lifeboats and Icebreaker. I learned to appreciate ROSTREI STEEl, a nice handle with pleasant ergonomics and no upper hilt in the way. The Aviator was acquired when I flew sailplanes. The cylinder metal grip is not ergonomic and gets mighty cold or hot. I also don't care for hollowground blades. But it is superbly made, and in a truly space and wieght conscious environment with a hot and cold desert below was near perfect. You actually may have to hack free from some aircraft and I wore gloves anyway. The WSI is a superb tool, greatly reflecting the Alaskan home of it's designer the late Chris Janowsky. Another metal grip, but again I have hand protection. And finally the F1. The grip is a bit small for my hand, a common observation by owners. The strength is superb, it's sharp and virtually maintenance free. I've managed to use it for all the previous scenarios; winter woodland, ocean, flying and hunting/camp use. In it's simplicity it does well in all. I'd feel confident using any of these knives in any of the above scenarios. The F1 just seems to pull together all the combined needs in one package with few of the compromises or shortcomings.
 
Hmm... probably (1) my Marble's Campcraft in 52100 with the leather washer grip, (2) Master Hunter in Carbon V, (3) F1, (4) Helle Eggen. Any of them would do fine.
 
I own many 4"-ish knives that would probably see you through he!! & back, but if pressed to pick one, there's no doubt. Swamp Rat's SAR Rat. :thumbup:

1/4" thick SR-101 at the spine, it's full flat grind and excellent taper to the tip make it a knife that is at home whether it's cleaning your fingernails, cleaning fish, whittling wood, dressing a deer, batoning wood or cutting through the door of a Chevy pick-up. Just plain feels good, too! :D
 
Yeah to sidestep the fire and get to the point of "which one would it be"

I would go with the Badger or Javelina having owned and carried both they are well recieved and worthy carry companions.
 
...this thread turns into a "let me recommend what I own" type of thread and all recommendations become meaningless. :grumpy:

Personally, I recommended ONE of the knives I own, because I've whupped the heck out of it and it hasn't let me down. That's far from meaningless.

The Cold Steel Master Hunter in CarbonV is a solid design made with very good materials. The 4-5/8" blade is plenty of steel for most camp or woods use, in fact I wouldn't mind at all if the blade was shorter, as short as 3-1/2". The wide, flat-ground, full-distal-taper, mild drop-point blade is very stout, but cuts and slices surprisingly well. It will take about as fine an edge as you care to put on it, with reasonable effort and without ceramic or diamond sharpeners. The steel is on the soft/tough side, and responds very well to daily touch-ups when used alot. I have whittled on burl and driftwood with it, and batonned it both across and with the grain, on green and dry wood, with very minimal dulling and no chipping. I prefer this to a knife that chips or is a real bear to sharpen once it does get dull. I usually shy away from rubber handles, but this one is a great example. It fills the hand comfortably, you can feel exactly where the edge is, and even the molded-in guard feels solid and secure. My only real complaint is that the handle doesn't need to be as long as it is. I wear an XL glove and there's nearly an extra 3/16" of handle pretty much no matter how I hold it. The concealex sheath it came with is quite solid; not real pretty but I've found it 100% reliable. My knife will NOT shake loose when the sheath is held bottom-up and shaken like mad; but it pops out with thumb-pressure when I want to draw it.

I don't like it because I bought it, I keep it because I like it. I hope that's more meaningful for ya :D
 
Bryan,

I'm curious to know what kind of reaction you normally get from folks when they see the CR. I live in Australia where such carry is generally illegal, so I'm struggling somewhat to understand how this plays out around the sheeple.

Cheers,

J.
 
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