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[SonicBlade]

How about an Emerson fixed blade Karambit?
http://www.emersonknives.com/KFBBT.html
Well, just a noob suggestion because that knife spells 'combat' to me.

 

[JWBirch]

http://www.grahamknives.com/

Very good stuff (3/16" thick 154CM heat treated by BOS), in an urban tactical package. Consider the Razel a base that you can request to be customised. A Razel modified so that it bellies up to the point rather than through the 90 degree chisel edge (such as the tanto razel, spearpoint, or jackyl models) would fit your defined needs for a "combat" knife perfectly, IMHO.

"Combat" can be very different than "tactical" or "field". "Combat" knife tells me you need something sturdier than typical "tactical" knives. For example, the Benchmade Nimravus Cub is a seriously competent "tactical" knife, but a fools "combat" knife. Regardless, you need to define your own criteria, and choose a knife that meets those criteria. Listening to us internet ninjas is only beneficial in that it exposes you to other ideas, and only as long as you look at them as ideas, not facts or definitions, as they relate to you personally. You make your own definitions, because we all face different realities.

I am making the assumption that when you say combat knife and limit it to 3.5" blade, you are looking for a knife that is more than a sum of it's parts. You need, in my opinion, something with a 3/5 height hollow grind or 4/5 height flat grind, strong point, spine thickness of at least .150", but not thicker than 3/16". It should be excellent quality steel in the 154CM/S30V/A-2/D-2/M-2/3-V quality levels, and exclude the rapidly rusting carbon steels if you will be carrying it in a pocket (sweat will rust it otherwise). You also need a deep choil in the handle (as opposed to the ricasso) so that your hand doesn't slip forward when stabbing, which is why I don't recommend the Busse Heavy Duty or Meaner Street, which are otherwise a fine "Tactical" or "Field" knives. This is meant as food for thought. Ultimately, you define the criteria and the solution.

 

[JWBirch]

I just reviewed most of the knives posted here, Added a few ideas, and will give some opinions. These are my opinions only, and this is not to suggest that the recommendatios of others aren't worthy of consideration.

Benchmade Resistor: good choice. I'll consider this the low end benchmark: anything less than this is unsuitable in the "combat" category (YMMV). After a quick study with mine I find the choil on this one marginal at best, and potentially dangerous for stabbing.
Snody Resistor in 3/16" (if you can get one): better choice.
Lightfoot C-4, .150 BG-42: another good choice. Best handle/choil combination on any 3.5" bladed knife I've ever held.
Dozier K-15, KM-3, NY Special: great choices at .150 and .185. Be aware that many Doziers have marginally aceptable choils, if stabbing safety is a concern for you.
Bud Nealy: I consider his smaller knives to be fine Tactical knives, more so than Combat knives. Most of these have no choils, so you will cut yourself (and severing finger tendons will sideline you for a long time) if you ever find youself stabbing something or someone in an emergency situation. PM me if you question this, but it should be common sense.
Busse AD, HD, LMS, MS: same as above. A guy recently posted bloody pics of his hand after stabbing a refrigerator for fun. Do not underestimate the importance of a substantial choil. Otherwise these are as combat rated as a small knife can get.
Emerson fixed Kerambit: Another excellent tactical. You sacrifice overall strength to gain lethality, if you know how to use one effectively. Otherwise better choices are available in the combat categoy.
Graham Jackyl, or Tanto Razel: So far I haven't seen anything that better qualifies as a mini combat knife than these two. Don't worry about advertised sizes, these are custom made to your specs.
http://www.grahamknives.com/jackylenlarged.htm
http://www.grahamknives.com/tanto.htm
Becker Necker, especially with the SheathMechanic mods (totals about $55+shipping, how can you beat that?: another excellent choice if you don't expect to rust the edge. http://www.sheathmechanic.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=99

Again these are my opinions based on my experiences and Your Mission May Vary!!!

 

[wewaslim]

Ontario RAT 3 or Bud Nealy (Boker) Escort. Both well under $ 100.00.

 

[rifon2]

I just reviewed most of the knives posted here, Added a few ideas, and will give some opinions. These are my opinions only, and this is not to suggest that the recommendatios of others aren't worthy of consideration.
Dozier K-15, KM-3, NY Special: great choices at .150 and .185.
Again these are my opinions based on my experiences and Your Mission May Vary!!!

I'm glad to see my Dozier NY Special recommendation seconded along with the others just posted by Gold Member JWBirch.

Because I think Bob Dozier's knives are terrific; and I also think that particular knife is extremely well suited to your requirements.

 

[JWBirch]

Because I think Bob Dozier's knives are terrific; and I also think that particular knife is extremely well suited to your requirements.

That and D2 steel is just about perfect for smaller combat knives. It holds an edge like more expensive steels, and resists rust like some stainless steels. The one drawback that I hear the most about is that it may be brittle at 60+ Rc, but that shouldn't be a factor in a 3.5" bladed knife unless you plan on lashing it to a pole for additional chopping and prying capacity.

 

[W.T. Beck]

My favorite design for a 3.5 self defense knife is the CRKT Companion. It has a very secure grip for a knife its size.

The steel ain't too great in the Companion - only AUS6. However, it is a tactical knife and not a utility knife. If it is kept sharp then the AUS6 should be fine, since edge-holding is not a concern for purely tactical knives. If you are lucky you will never have to cut with it.

 

[Halfneck]

JWBirch - Agree with a lot of your statements except regarding Bud Nealy's designs. True, most of them are not suitable for stabbing due to a minimal choil or guard. The exception is the Pesh Kabz.

 

[inspira]

I disagree partly with what JWBirch has said - while a knife for utility during combat should be robust, a knife for combat (aka weapon) doesn't have to be.

A supersteel doesn't kill anything faster than your average kitchen knife. We aren't covertly deanimating 2x4's here. And incidentally, you'll want something longer than 3.5 inch for your so called 'combat'.

 

[Halfneck]

inspira - If I knew I was going into combat I would rather be a few 100 yards out with a rifle.

That out of the way, 3.5" is the length the original poster specified. As such, just trying to stick to their parameters.

 

[JWBirch]

Half-neck, good eye on the Pesh Kabz, that'd probably be a good bid bit better than the Resistor for a mini-combat knife. His carry system adds to the versatility.

I disagree partly with what JWBirch has said - while a knife for utility during combat should be robust, a knife for combat (aka weapon) doesn't have to be.

A supersteel doesn't kill anything faster than your average kitchen knife. We aren't covertly deanimating 2x4's here. And incidentally, you'll want something longer than 3.5 inch for your so called 'combat'.

Inspira, the subject at hand is a 3.5" combat knife, not a utility knife to use in combat. Welcome. Super steel is required. "Combat" means that 2nd best need not apply. Combat knives are typically used for everything except killing, (things like deanimating 2x4's, as you so adequately put it). So something much higher quality than 440A is indeed necessary. The design needs to retain some semblence of lethality, but it's more likely to be used for stabbing 55 gallon drums for fire barrels than stabbing people. It needs to be capable of cutting chain link fence, not arteries. In the Al Queda caves knives are more likely to bust hasps off of boxes of intel than slice people.
A "combat" knife is a tool, first, second, third,... weapon last.

 

[wetdog1911]

What I remember is no numchucks, no bowie, no daggers ,no dirks , no knives that the blade shoot out from the front. There are others.

Since I not into auto's or butterflys.The knife I carry is a MOD stinger and it has the top blade sharpened.





regards,

Timber man

That sharpened top edge might qualify as a dirk, or dagger. It does down here, but is ok with the CCW. Pretty much just shooting blades and perhaps sword canes are out along with suppressed or full auto weapons.

Rob

 

[Halfneck]

JWBirch - Main reason I notice the Pesh Kabz is every year I contemplate buying one. Then every year I get side-tracked or don't have the funds.

 

[DavidW3]

Inspira, the subject at hand is a 3.5" combat knife, not a utility knife to use in combat. Welcome. Super steel is required. "Combat" means that 2nd best need not apply.

I don't know about that. Perhaps in theory. In real life? "Super" steel? What is it? I think they used knives made of 1095 in actual combats sometime ago. And I tend to think many knives that see actual usage in history were not made of super steel either. AND, they got the jobs done. and serve their masters well. I don't know. Perhaps it's me. I don't really buy this "super" steel is needed theory. It sounds logical. But in the real world, I tend to think it's not really a big factor. Not that the knives should not be made of good materials, only that superb materials are not necessary is what I would think.

 

[W.T. Beck]

A "combat" knife is a tool, first, second, third,... weapon last.

That's true for knives used by soldiers. In that situation I would want the best knife I could get. If I were being sent to Afganistan, I would take along my Randall Model 14, if allowed.

However, for a small knife carried by a civilian to have in case of a mugger or car jacker, I don't think the quality of the steel or ruggedness is so crucial. A secure grip is my chief concern for such knives. In that respect it is hard to find a better choice than the CRKT Companion.

 

[JWBirch]

I don't know about that. Perhaps in theory. In real life? "Super" steel? What is it? I think they used knives made of 1095 in actual combats sometime ago. And I tend to think many knives that see actual usage in history were not made of super steel either. AND, they got the jobs done. and serve their masters well. I don't know. Perhaps it's me. I don't really buy this "super" steel is needed theory. It sounds logical. But in the real world, I tend to think it's not really a big factor. Not that the knives should not be made of good materials, only that superb materials are not necessary is what I would think.

Bronze gave way to iron. Iron gave way to steel. My opinion is based on doctrine (and combat experience, of course), not strategy or tactics.
If the initial poster of this thread had given us more to work with my posts might have been different, but were talking about a combat knife, not a scare someone by showing it to them knife.

And one more thing, I consider this thread, and threads like it, to potentially be matters of life or death, so I won't apolagize or beg anyone's pardon for taking it seriously. People in occupations we've never heard of or imagined ask these questions in earnest, and they deserve the best we can bring.