4116 Krupp edge retention test.

Steel130

Steel130

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
4,583
My edge retention test inspired by jdavis882. I heard some people day this is a crap steel. Its definitely no slouch. Great budget steel.

[video=youtube;0ww04UzwwCY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ww04UzwwCY[/video]
 
Last edited:
Pretty impressive for a sub $20 knife. Thanks for posting this, always liked the look of the roach belly in same steel. may have to pick one up. Inferior steel my butt.
 
Not trying to nit-pick or be a jack ass but as often with these cut test, rarely is the edge retention depicted clearly. What I mean is, whether the user is aware or not they cut the more abrasive/tougher to cut material closer to the handle (thus increasing leverage and making the cut easier) and then cut the test media (paper) further towards the tip. I haven't even finish the video, but before you started box number 2 the blade had stop biting the paper closer to the handle where you were cutting on the cardboard.

That said, I agree that Krupp 4116 is far from "crap steel"; I've got their Kudu and Finn bear in it and have been impressed with their performance for the meager price. Easy to get an edge back as well. I too wish they'd make more low budget folders in this steel.

-sh00ter
 
The composition of the 4116 is very close to 12c27m, which is used in some low budget outdoor knives and is pretty well regarded.

Also, the cardboard cutting brings up something I've noticed. A well sharpened blade, even in a less expensive steel, will cut cardboard for a long time before it completely stops shaving. My Byrd Cara Cara and a pass around RAT-1 folder cut about 100 feet of cardboard each, and would still shave a few hairs off my hand, with some effort and care. I used to cut cardboard until the edge would no longer slice a plastic grocery bag. Once an edge looses the ability to do that, it will still shave my arm pretty well.
 
Cool video.
I agree that the Krupp from Cold steel seems to be good.
I love my FInn Bear.
I think that we, the "knife community", need to be careful when we label inexpensive stuff as "crap". We may turn away the new people. Words are powerful.
We need to remember that many people can't afford hi-end knives, and new people to this hobby may be reluctant to invest in expensive stuff even if they have the $$.
I want to encourage people to buy a few inexpensive knives, use them, learn to sharpen them. Then as they learn more, they'll end up purchasing better stuff as time goes on. The more people involved in this hobby, the better.
 
sh00ter01 said:
Not trying to nit-pick or be a jack ass but as often with these cut test, rarely is the edge retention depicted clearly. What I mean is, whether the user is aware or not they cut the more abrasive/tougher to cut material closer to the handle (thus increasing leverage and making the cut easier) and then cut the test media (paper) further towards the tip. I haven't even finish the video, but before you started box number 2 the blade had stop biting the paper closer to the handle where you were cutting on the cardboard.

That said, I agree that Krupp 4116 is far from "crap steel"; I've got their Kudu and Finn bear in it and have been impressed with their performance for the meager price. Easy to get an edge back as well. I too wish they'd make more low budget folders in this steel.

-sh00ter
Click to expand...

I think most people (including me) use the whole edge to cut the cardboard, and the whole edge to slice the paper.

As long as the cardboard is consistent this kind of test can be very telling IMO.

Good job OP.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I used the whole edge as far as I can tell. Crimson. I know you use rope. I have access too heavy rope used for boats. I could do some testing with that as well. Im pretty sure its your channel that inspired it.
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
I think most people (including me) use the whole edge to cut the cardboard, and the whole edge to slice the paper.

As long as the cardboard is consistent this kind of test can be very telling IMO.

Good job OP.
Click to expand...

I know most people intend to use the entire edge and am not questioning the validity of cardboard as a test media. I'm merely pointing out that when cutting more abrasive and thus tougher to cut material we naturally choke up on it and use the portion of blade closer to the handle in order to increase our leverage.

Steel130 said:
Thanks for the replies guys. I used the whole edge as far as I can tell...
Click to expand...

I finished the video and on the second box your were indeed using much more of the edge:thumbup:

-sh00ter
 
Angus McGunnigl said:
Cool video.
I agree that the Krupp from Cold steel seems to be good.
I love my FInn Bear.
I think that we, the "knife community", need to be careful when we label inexpensive stuff as "crap". We may turn away the new people. Words are powerful.
We need to remember that many people can't afford hi-end knives, and new people to this hobby may be reluctant to invest in expensive stuff even if they have the $$.
I want to encourage people to buy a few inexpensive knives, use them, learn to sharpen them. Then as they learn more, they'll end up purchasing better stuff as time goes on. The more people involved in this hobby, the better.
Click to expand...


People also need to be careful not to make more out of those steels than they really are just because they are cheap....... ;)

Like in this thread for example.

How many times have you seen posts/reviews about how awesome SAK's perform edge retention wise?

You don't because they are what they are and 4116 is basically the same steel that is used in SAK's so lets be realistic, or try to be.

On the cardboard, there wasn't really enough cut to really make much of a difference taking into count what kind of cardboard that was so it will make the performance seem better that it really is or impressive to some.

Cardboard isn't all the same as some of us know.
 
Last edited:
Ankerson said:
People also need to be careful not to make more out of those steels than they really are just because they are cheap....... ;)
Click to expand...

Totally agree with that. I personally love the Finn Bear for the handle. The steel isn't amazing, but functional.

I just look at inexpensive knives with the non-supersteels as a nice way to get into this hobby/addiction/pastime/whatever it's called ???
Again, I just worry about discouraging the new folks by totally bashing non-supersteels.
The more of us out there the better. !
 
Angus McGunnigl said:
Totally agree with that. I personally love the Finn Bear for the handle. The steel isn't amazing, but functional.

I just look at inexpensive knives with the non-supersteels as a nice way to get into this hobby/addiction/pastime/whatever it's called ???
Again, I just worry about discouraging the new folks by totally bashing non-supersteels.
The more of us out there the better. !
Click to expand...

There are really no bad steels, just different performance levels and or uses.
 
Ankerson said:
People also need to be careful not to make more out of those steels than they really are just because they are cheap....... ;)

Like in this thread for example.

How many times have you seen posts/reviews about how awesome SAK's perform edge retention wise?

You don't because they are what they are and 4116 is basically the same steel that is used in SAK's so lets be realistic, or try to be.

On the cardboard, there wasn't really enough cut to really make much of a difference taking into count what kind of cardboard that was so it will make the performance seem better that it really is or impressive to some.

Cardboard isn't all the same as some of us know.
Click to expand...
Im not trying to present false information ect. I am more than willing to redo the test in heavier cardboard, rope , whatever. I dont feel I am making a big deal out of the steel. I simply stated that for a budget steel its no slouch. Most people I heard talk about made it sound like if you cut four pieces of cardboard it will be dull. Again this is my first video like this. So tips on correct cardboard would be great. I know the pizza box is thinner than most other cardboard. So I know what you mean by " all cardboard being equal ". It was the only abundant cardboard I had on hand. Thanks for taking the time to watch. I appreciate criticism so I can get better at this.
 
Steel130 said:
Im not trying to present false information ect. I am more than willing to redo the test in heavier cardboard, rope , whatever. I dont feel I am making a big deal out of the steel. I simply stated that for a budget steel its no slouch. Most people I heard talk about made it sound like if you cut four pieces of cardboard it will be dull. Again this is my first video like this. So tips on correct cardboard would be great. I know the pizza box is thinner than most other cardboard. So I know what you mean by " all cardboard being equal ". It was the only abundant cardboard I had on hand. Thanks for taking the time to watch. I appreciate criticism so I can get better at this.
Click to expand...

I have some cardboard here that will kill it in a real hurry, some hard double thick stuff.

Go to your local Grocery store and get some Paper towel boxes or TP Boxes, they are usually pretty clean cardboard, something a little tougher would be cereal boxes.

Don't bother too much with rope, that edge won't last very long cutting rope depending on what it is.

4116 is fine for kitchen knives and typical EDC tasks that most really use their knives for, but start cutting abrasive media with it and it won't hold up as well as the higher alloy steels will and it's not really supposed to either.
 
Ankerson said:
I have some cardboard here that will kill it in a real hurry, some hard double thick stuff.

Go to your local Grocery store and get some Paper towel boxes or TP Boxes, they are usually pretty clean cardboard, something a little tougher would be cereal boxes.

Don't bother too much with rope, that edge won't last very long cutting rope depending on what it is.

4116 is fine for kitchen knives and typical EDC tasks that most really use their knives for, but start cutting abrasive media with it and it won't hold up as well as the higher alloy steels will and it's not really supposed to either.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips. I much prefer higher end steels over 4116. I haven't delved into super expensive stuff. But have had good results with CPM154, S35VN ect. There are cut tests on those already so I wont bother. But like you said earlier. I don't as long as the company is reputable. I dont think there is crap steel. It just depends on what you are going to do with the steel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top