420HC vs 12C27M

Flatlander1963

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2008
Messages
4,646
I've previously asked you guys to compare 154cm and 12C27M as in seems Buck is moving towards replacing all the 154cm steel with the Sandvik steel for Avid applications.

I'm getting really close to making a purchase of a Boning knife, but I really have not manage to get a good feel for 12C27M's performance (I don't own any).

My first question...is if its worth the additional cost on a boning knife? The only difference between Select and Avid Boning knife is the steel.

The bigger question is what makes 12C27M better than Buck's 420HC?? Because, I can't find anything at all that is convincing me it it better. Any comments.

I guess I'm mainly interested in the difference in edge retention between these two if that helps with your thoughts on the subject.
 
I haven't used the new steel, but I have done some research. I've read a lot of threads and Googled a bit over the past few months and it seems to me the consensus of what I've read from a lot of people is that the two steels are about the same (420HC and 12C27M, I mean).
 
I haven't used the new steel, but I have done some research. I've read a lot of threads and Googled a bit over the past few months and it seems to me the consensus of what I've read from a lot of people is that the two steels are about the same (420HC and 12C27M, I mean).

I guess that's my feeling as well but I assume (hoping) that Buck Inc. is giving us something extra for the 20-25% surcharge on the steel cost.
 
That price hike may simply be a case of business necessity.

Maybe the cost of the new steel dictates it?
 
Guys I've not tested a Sandvik steel as yet but just chating with other knife makers I think we may see edge retention more like 425M with some other benefits as well . DM
 
Good question Flat. I have a Vantage Avid in my edc rotation and I have touched up the edge one time. The touch up process and end result was not noticeably different than 420HC. My opinion so far would be that the two steels are so similar that there should be no premium paid to get the Sandvik steel only. But hey...you do get the cool stamp on the blade.
 
humm ...
Santa Buck, could we see more of the new steel used next year?
i would like a 110 with the new steel you know ..,
one from the custom shop would be nice..
110D
 
I have a fair amount of experience with the 425M and currently carry a 112 Four-Dotter most of the time.

The 425M is an EXCELLENT steel as found in Buck knives of the past.

I'd have to give it a nod over the 420HC from my own experience, although 420HC is plenty good.
 
Thanks for the info. 425M seems to "get 20%" better performance and get the "nod" over 420 HC.

If you don't mind, if you know, how much better overall is 440C than 420 HC in terms of Buck knives?

Reason I ask, is that I have a two dot, a four dot, and a 420 HC 110. I know know the four dot is likely better than the 420HC, and want to know how much better the 440C is than the 420HC.

Moderator, if I'm hijacking this thread, I apologize, please delete. Otherwise I'm just trying to learn all about the Buck steels.
 
I don't think 440C is a lot better than 425M.....maybe a little. Remember that there is 440C from before and after the BOS heat treat started in about 1981. Those two versions of the same steel may show differences. There may even be differences in the knives of the same steel from one year to the next in some cases. Testing is often less than comprehensive and opinion reigns supreme.

The evolution of Buck steels has been toward materials that lent themselves well to mass production and were easier to sharpen. If you keep that in mind you will have a pretty good idea of what's been going on.

The archives are your best place to begin research on your question.......a question that may resist consensus among the many users of steel.

Your question is a natural progression of the thread and I think the original question has been answered as well as it can be answered. In the end, if you have a specific use for a steel, the only way to be sure is to buy and test it yourself in your own particular application.
 
Thanks BG42. I have studied it fairly well, and never once heard that 425M is superior to 420HC. That is what got me to thinking, really how much better is 440C. The standard I hear is 420HC with Edge 2x is just as good as 440C with the old blade grinds. I really am not sure I believe it. I've read also that 440C using Edge 2X blows 420 HC away. I tend to believe this.

I'm not for sure, but I think if you take the +20 degree angles and bring them down to 15+- on the 440C, and leave the convex edge, I think it will blow 420HC away even with it's Edge 2X.

Just a student here. I even know about Bos coming at the 3 dot 110's but have also heard he had input on the earlier 440c's. I don't know how far back that goes, but assume at least some of the 2 dots were supervised by Bos, or he at least had some input on them. Not sure about pre 2 dot.

Guessing that 420HC is similar to the Sandvik in the original question. Sounds like some say the Sandvick is better than 420HC and similar to 425M. I think I've researched 425 M in the past. May have to do a refresher. I do recall several say it wasn't as good as 420HC. Obviously others disagree and think it is better.

One thing I know, BOS prefers S30V, as does Chuck Buck, over all overs. It degrades into a microserrated type of edge. I've read that Chuck Buck prefers a "meaty" edge. Reading between the lines....to me that means 440C would be a close second, or maybe third behing S30V, 154C(modified 440C) and much more preferable to him over 425M and 420HC and any of the sandvicks, which take finer edges. So that old 440C must be some pretty darn good stuff to a Buck principal.
 
Last edited:
Yes, the steel question is so complex and many-faceted that I have pretty much given up on it.

I have favorite (or much-loved) knives in several different steels and I could argue from experience that each of them is a superior knife.

I'm pretty sure there is no definitive answer, even though we all prefer those.

:D
 
Silver, We had this discussion before (for more info.). You may find it in a search . Some guard their tests results as these can take much effort to arrive at . Your on track with Mr. Boss history . Keep at it . DM
 
I have tried to re-edge 12C27 edges, admittedly on other brand knives, with the same Sharpmaker I can put a shaver edge back on the basic 420HC Buck blade in short order. The results are never back to the original sharpness, which, in turn, is not up to a new or resharpened Buck 420HC edge. I have limited experience with Buck's CPM154 - from my experience, it lasts quite well. S30V takes some time to re-edge - but lasts quite well. 154CM, D2, 440C all take more time and care to re-edge - and, as yet, i haven't persevered to get a razor's edge on one yet!

I guess, longevity of edge retention and ease of re-edging considered, 420HC has been, in my humble opinion, better than many other metals - including 12C27. I still like buying Bucks with 'upgrade metals', like S30V & CPM154.

Stainz
 
I'm a fan of the Sandvik stuff and find with both Buck's and Kershaws it does hold an edge slightly longer than 420HC from either Buck or Leatherman for me anyway. It takes a very very sharp edge for me on ceramic rods, probably sharper than most other steels I use, though 154CM is pretty darn good too. I don't know, I guess I'd pay a slight premium for for it over 420HC, as I did when I bought my Vantage Avid and my factory error Vantage Pro with Sandvik blade instead of the normal S30V blade. I for one like to see Buck using it, though I wish it wasn't being used as a replacement for 154CM in some models, as 154CM is clearly superior for most people in most respects, except perhaps sharpening ease.
 
As old as this thread is it seems to be at a standstill so I'll jump in with my thoughts.I bought the 277 model of the folding Alpha Hunter a few years ago despite the whole 154CM vs. 12C27 Mod controversy.If you're expecting the Sandvik 12C27M to be on the edge retention spectrum of super steels look elsewhere.But it is a couple notches better in edge life than 420HC.Same ballpark in carbon(0.52%) but purity makes the edge life brighter.That's also because Buck can generate a few more points higher in hardness in heat treatment (59-60rc).420HC sharpens up well but Sandvik 12C27 Mod takes a really good edge for a stainless because it's pure...very similar to the old carbon steels like 1095 in edge definition.Buck's 420HC you can't go wrong but Sandvik 12C27 Mod is a very positive step up as a hunting and natural materials cutting steel.If Buck Knives does ever drop 420HC for their hunting steel it will be Sandvik.It should have been put on slipjoint knives as a stainless offering 30 years ago.
 
DOPE SLAP FOR PNNAH DAVE!

Sorry, I just noted that this is a Lazarus thread risen from the grave.

Sorry for adding to it.......



My first question...is if its worth the additional cost on a boning knife? The only difference between Select and Avid Boning knife is the steel.

The bigger question is what makes 12C27M better than Buck's 420HC?? Because, I can't find anything at all that is convincing me it it better. Any comments.

I guess I'm mainly interested in the difference in edge retention between these two if that helps with your thoughts on the subject.


Flatlander,

Among the low-carbide steels like 1095 and 420HC, 12C27 is my favorite. As a benchmark, I've racked up a lot of time with old Schrade-Walden and Schrade USA 1095, which was run at about 59Rc and 12C27 is the closest to providing that same sort of feel, both on the stone and in use. The Opinel 12C27 (rc58) is the flavor I'm most used to and it sharpens easily, feels less "smushy" than Buck's 420HC to me (Case's softer 420HC is even more so) and hones up incredibly "crisply" to a very, very, very fine edge.

As an engineer, I cringe when discussions about "edge retention" come up because my experiences is that different uses cause edges to degrade differently and different steels withstand these various failure modalities in differently. If by "edge retention" you mean the ability to withstand edge rounding through abrasive wear (i.e. rope cutting, cardboard) then I would put Schrades hard 1095, Opinel's 12C27 and Schrade USA's Schrade+ 440A (58Rc reported) are the best I've used among fine, low carbide steels with Buck's 420HC only a hair's breadth less. Call it by a nose in my very unscientific recollection of use. Cases's 420HC (rc56) is a very big jump down but it's not clear to me if that is due to abrasion or it's propensity to roll at that hardness. I would expect that CARTA and rope-based cutting tests would put 12C27 and 420HC near a dead heat if both hardened and profiled the same and both would be very, very, very far behind Buck's 440C.

In my super simplistic steel world view, there are 2 basic kinds of steels: those with carbides and those without. As Frank (knarfang) has said with respect to 440C, "Welcome to the darkside. We have carbides."

I prefer my old 440C Bucks for hunting, cutting down cardboard and when I use it for light EDC use, the edge stay sharp longer. That's the carbide effect.

I don't trust my 440C blades when it comes to working with wood or, frankly, the abusive stuff I do with my work knives in my shop (cutting down metal cans and flashing) and in the woods (yes, I baton wood with my fixed blades). IME, I would much rather have an edge roll or dent than chip, as I can fix that a lot faster in the field with a handheld stone.

For this sort of abuse, I still find 1095 to be the best I've used. I've put noticeable dents in 12C27 batoning through knots and I've not been able to dent Bucks 420HC cutting down boxes (hitting staples) or when cutting up metal cans. Still, the Opinel didn't chip and I was able to restore it. But in terms of toughness, I would give the edge to Bucks 420HC. (Case's 420HC is "tougher" yet, rolling and denting when you look at it sternly.)

The best way I can describe my experience with 12C27 is to say it feels exactly like good, hard 1095 without the issues of patina or food taste transfer.

If you want to experiment with 12C27 for cheap (while we wait for more expensive Buck offerings), the Opinel #9 and Mora Companion are both available for $15. Both companies have good experience with it and both treat it up in the 58Rc range, iirc. [Put Vaseline in the joint of the Opinel to to make the Mora shine when working with wood, I recommend convexing both the grind and edge.]

Please note: - My experience is with 12C27, not 12C27Mod and while they are close, they are different. My understanding is that 12C27M is more corrosion resistant and made for commercial kitchen knives that need to be put in dishwashers. Regular 12C27 can be pushed a bit higher in terms of heat treat, according to Sandvik.

Hope something here helps.
 
Back
Top