4x36 conversion to 2x72 belts

Mine is a PerformaX, rated at 6 amps. I did get it at Menards. In a 75% efficient motor, that would be roughly 3/4 HP. Compared to my 1.5HP Baldor, yeah, I'd say it's about half that. My neighbors Craftsman is rated at 1/2 or 3/4, and it's no where close to the same power. I have a replacement Wen 4x36 still in the box. I just haven't needed it yet. The nice thing about this design is that the platen could be taken off and put on any other 4x36 and it should work very easily without modification. Tracking is provided by the electrical tape on the top wheel. I haven't used anything that tracks as consistently without ever having to turn a knob.

The HF 4x36 is rated 3.5 amps, which is not even close to 3/4 HP even if the motor were 100% efficient. Their 6x36 belt sander is rated for 9 amps, it should work OK. I think you'd have a tough time swapping motors on the 4x36.

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GaryPogueCustomKnife said:
Well there is a GE 1 Hp motor for sale on my local Craigslist. I might have to pick it up and start my drafting & designing :)
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I have a 1hp GE on my grinder and it's not enough for me. Secondly, I still think this is a wasteful idea that simply stands to make your current machine less useful or not work at all. If you have all this scrap steel, have to butcher a machine you paid for, have to buy wheels, build a platen, build a tool rest, buy a motor, buy pulleys to make said motor possibly work with the contraption, that's the cost to build a real grinder, that actually works. If you have to buy and build all of these parts I suggest building a no weld grinder that is a proven working design. By the time you convert yours you will be at about the same cost for less than half the machine.
 
I think Bob said it right. Go ahead and get some! You'll show us. Something. Maybe. If you share. Kinda like holding your hand under a magnifing glass in the sun. Everyone told us it gets hot but most of us still did it. Jess
 
I still think this is a wasteful idea that simply stands to make your current machine less useful or not work at all. If you have all this scrap steel, have to butcher a machine you paid for, have to buy wheels, build a platen, build a tool rest, buy a motor, buy pulleys to make said motor possibly work with the contraption, that's the cost to build a real grinder, that actually works. If you have to buy and build all of these parts I suggest building a no weld grinder that is a proven working design. By the time you convert yours you will be at about the same cost for less than half the machine.
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I'd really have to argue with both points made here. First, it's not a useless machine. It's the single best $200 grinder you can build. The ability to use 2x72 belts kicks it way above a 2x42. It's got a 9" disc grinder, great for working on scales and full flat grind. The tracking is rock solid. While underpowered and overly fast compared to a 2HP VFD, it's still quicker and easier than files. Can you bog it down, yes, but I haven't bogged it down in a few years now. As good as a KMG? No. Better than 2x42? Yes.

Second, your cost estimate is way off. A $45 caster and $20 worth of steel is hardly the same price that you could build a NWG for. It doesn't have to be super precise, just an 8" caster on top of the current platen. I bet I could build a new one in about 30 minutes. It seems the trick is finding the right 4x36 to start with. I lucked into them when they were twice as powerful as the ones sold today. A little research and it shouldn't be tough to find one today.
 

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zaph1 said:
I'd really have to argue with both points made here. First, it's not a useless machine. It's the single best $200 grinder you can build. The ability to use 2x72 belts kicks it way above a 2x42. It's got a 9" disc grinder, great for working on scales and full flat grind. The tracking is rock solid. While underpowered and overly fast compared to a 2HP VFD, it's still quicker and easier than files. Can you bog it down, yes, but I haven't bogged it down in a few years now. As good as a KMG? No. Better than 2x42? Yes.

Second, your cost estimate is way off. A $45 caster and $20 worth of steel is hardly the same price that you could build a NWG for. It doesn't have to be super precise, just an 8" caster on top of the current platen. I bet I could build a new one in about 30 minutes. It seems the trick is finding the right 4x36 to start with. I lucked into them when they were twice as powerful as the ones sold today. A little research and it shouldn't be tough to find one today.
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I am not here to argue man, but we are not comparing the same numbers. I was factoring in a 4 wheel setup like the the one the op drew, which would require two idlers and more steel. He also stated that he considered replacing the motor, so I factored in buying a motor including pulleys to make it work with the current machine. My point was if you have to buy two wheels, frame parts and a motor anyway, that is not as small of an investment as what you factored for. My point was if you figured 20-50 for steel, like you said, 100 bucks for two idlers, 100 bucks or so for a bigger motor as he planned, and other bits and pieces you are in the 250 range. I built my no weld for 400 with a platen, 500 total if factor in my 10 inch wheel and arm. Like I said I don't mean to argue, I'm just stating that I was factoring in the op having to buy these parts, and actual grinder wheels rather than casters or whatever so my cost estimate was higher due to more parts
 
Personally, I'd sell the HF machine and put the money towards a NWGS. It's possible to have a functional NWGS for $500 to $600 (maybe less depending on what kind of deal you get on a motor, and what kind of wheels you use). One other advantage is that you will have a machine that you can then upgrade as funds come in, as well as expanding it to do more than just flat grinding. It also allows for a step pulley set up.

Everybody has something they could sell, even at 15. Maybe you have some friends or relatives you could do some odd jobs for? Keep an eye out for some craigslist deals... doesn't matter what it is. Buy some old tools, furniture, or what have you on the cheap, and flip it for a little more $$$. You'd be surprised what kind of difference a little steel wool and spray paint makes on the bargain basement type deals you find on CL.

Get creative.
 
Eh I wouldn't sell the 4x36. They cost very little to begin with. It's probably worth more than the money he'd get for selling it. The disk is handy and the belt is fine for sanding handle material.

I'd regret selling mine for peanuts.
 
I would like to add that i can get all of my steel for free or very cheaply. For the idlers, i am thinking about buying some 2 inch wide skateboard wheels to use, maybe rubber if i can find some. They may be might cheapest route, but i will take the risk of using them. And for the motor, i always see decent used motors on craigslist or on a auction website on the cheap. But when i finalize the sketches, i will make it so it can be adjusted to make it work as needed, like making a slot in the arms so the wheels can slide back in forth according to the belt then bolted tight. My step-grandfather is a very skilled engineer and designed things for GM in his heyday, I am sure he could help me out with the drafting and designing.

Thanks,
Gary
 
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