$50 outdoor knife

I think the Buck is a great bet. Then again...so is a Mora. Then again...so is the Ka-Bar. I own the Ka-Bar and an couple of Moras and say that you can't go wrong with either. However, I would snag a Mora, or 10 for the price, and a Buck if I had the option. The Ka-Bar is nice, but I find the leather rings grips to be slick when wet and the synthetic grips (can't remember what they are) to be very uncomfortable in my hand. YMMV
 
Personally, I don't get the fascination with "choppers". Unless you're on private land, it's a bit uncool to use them outside of a survival situation. Unless you're building a white man fire and need to burn large logs or chop down saplings for shelter building (or live in the jungle), a smaller fixed blade knife is simply a more useful tool IMO. But of all the advice in this thread, I like what psy-ops had to say best.

BTW, I own a 119 and it's designed for processing game, not bushcraft though most knives can do more than one thing.

I think a $14 Mora Clipper (stainless or carbon) would make pretty good sense. I am continually impressed with the two I bought (one of each blade material).
 
I think the buck 119 is a great knife for $40. I still have mine and it will do plenty if you ask it to. The 420 HC gets shod on a lot, but Buck is very well known for the heat treat they put on their knives. As far as stainless vs. carbon, well I will go carbon in day.

I like the kabar's as well. They are similar in style to the 119 (actually the 119 is more a copy of the kabar style I think). Must bushcrafy folks don't really like the double guard that they both sport, gets in the way of many types of grips. Another cheapie choice is the Grohman Canadian Belt knife. The Mora 2000 is a great knife. You might also want to consider a Jarvenpaa Leuko for about $45.00.

Some people don't like the mid-sized knives, but I'm one of those guys who does enjoy them for their merits. You can look at them as half glass empty, half glass full I guess. I think they retain a lot of control for close cutting but at the same time are pretty versatile for chopping and batoning. A mid-sized knife can comfortably go out in the woods while forgoing an axe. Some people don't like to do that while other people do.

Good luck on your chosing!
 
My preference is for a multitool, 4" fixed blade, and a hatchet. That covers all the bases without trying to compromise too much with one tool.
 
kberg said:
James -
Perhaps I'll get a longer machete type blade, and pair that with a smaller fixed (which was one suggestion) if I can't decide on a medium length that I like. The problem is that I don't have tons of outdoor experience and don't know what I'll find more useful.
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That's a fine idea! And probably the most cost effective. With a little shopping around you can surely find a Mora (or similar) and a machete for under $50 as you originally said.

I feel both are easier to learn to use effectively than a mid-length knife.

For either one, you can find choices in both stainless and carbon steels, I'd go with carbon for both unless you live by the sea.

Don't get the biggest machete you can find unless you plain on harvesting a lot of wheat or something. A 12-18" machete is very effective for the heavier end of most general camp tasks. If you need anything much bigger, you're not camping or surviving, you're homesteading.

As you can see from these gents' posts, there are a lot of fun ways to skin this particular cat!
 
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kgd said:
They are similar in style to the 119 (actually the 119 is more a copy of the kabar style I think).
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Thats the way I feel, the only thing is obviously the 119 is a better cutter.
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The 119 seems to retain an edge better and, of course, the Ka-Bar is easier to sharpen.
 
..I know I haven't been here long, but I've been reading and I think there is *far* too much emphasis placed on batoning w/ a knife. I just don't get it. If you want something to chop w/, an axe is the proper tool. If you want something flat and small to beat thru logs, save yourself some money and just get one of those breacher bars from County Comm. Or even a cold steel machete.. A knife is supposed to be used for cutting. Sure. In a *survival* situation, you *might* have to do some batonning w/ a knife, but if you're not in a situation like that, why ruin a fine cutting instrument? To me, that's just abuse. The proper tool to fit the job is always what I've been taught.
 
"General cutting, chopping, possible food prep (if we go somewhere and can fish for/trap some food) and just general outdoor purposes."

Gerber Gator Pack Axe

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-5081/Detail

This is my EDC for woodswalking. I have used it to harvest firewood, chop kindling, dig holes, shave and shape wood (hold it like an ulu), food prep (it droves my wife nuts, but there is no better chopper, again hold it like an ulu). It will drive tent pegs and work as a hammer. You can skin and process game with it, scale fish and even baton with it. It is light, small (don't let the size fool you) and fits on your belt. Combine it with a SAK Huntsman or Farmer and you really have everything covered. It is very small, so you are not going to fell trees with it. Also, you need to work on the edge as it is not sharp from the factory. You should carry a small sharpening stone. It is very easy to sharpen in the field. It will handle any sort of rough duty you care to give it.

Now, I will admit, it does not look cool like the bushcraft knives, but I think it is a lot more practical. The more I use it, the more uses I find for it.
 
MagicDot said:
A knife is supposed to be used for cutting. Sure. In a *survival* situation, you *might* have to do some batonning w/ a knife, but if you're not in a situation like that, why ruin a fine cutting instrument? To me, that's just abuse. The proper tool to fit the job is always what I've been taught.
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Your knife must have come with a detailed instruction pamphlet, telling you what proper jobs it is supposed to do.

I buy mine from Bryan Breeden. He usual sends it with an instruction pamphlet too. It says: Enjoy your knife! That's what I do, and I use it however I like ;)
 
Fonly said:
Thats the way I feel, the only thing is obviously the 119 is a better cutter (than the Ka-Bar).
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It's also a lot thinner and a lot more brittle. The classic Buck knives are very, very good at what they do, but in my opinion they're far from optimal for camp chores/bushcraft/survival.

I'm not as impressed with the edge-holding of 420HC as some people claim to be; I don't think it's really much better than typical 1095 on rough work like wood, cordage, and so on. Not only is it a bit harder to sharpen, it tends to chip instead of flex or roll at the edge, which makes sharpening take even longer. It does resist staining and rust far better than carbon steels. But if you want a "stainless" blade, 420HC is near the bottom of the food chain.

1095 is near the top of the list in simple carbon steels. Don't let anyone kid you, you can get a Ka-bar DAMN sharp. It will still be tougher than the Buck.
 
kgd said:
Your knife must have come with a detailed instruction pamphlet, telling you what proper jobs it is supposed to do.

I buy mine from Bryan Breeden. He usual sends it with an instruction pamphlet too. It says: Enjoy your knife! That's what I do, and I use it however I like ;)
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..its your knife.. ::shrug:: ..use it how you see fit. I just don't see the point of buying a tool that isn't designed to do a job when there are tools designed to do the job correctly. ..and no manual told me the proper use for tools: one look and common sense will tell you otherwise.

I *could* use my 2lbs maul to drive a tack, but you get a better result from using a tack hammer.. ..if one is prepared, then there shouldn't be a need to use a maul when a tack hammer should suffice. I'm not going to get into an argument over it because its your/his money and tool, but I just question the emphasis that so many seem to put on being able to split an oak log w/ an instrument that is designed to do finer things like cutting and other bushcraft tasks and risk ruining it for the purpose for which it was designed. ..by all means, use your tool where you see fit..
 
If you have serviceable knives, I would wait and save a little and buy a decent knife. I don't know what theories you want to test. If you test a theory with a $50 knife, then all you will know is what a $50 knife will or won't do. There's nothing wrong with wanting a new toy-- you have plenty of company here on that subject.

Things like cutting wood went past the theory stage about 250,000 years ago. Bushcraft is pretty old :)

You have the multi-tool and a folder. I think something like a Bark River or Fallkniven would be a better investment. The Buck and Ka-Bar models you picked out have their appeal, but neither is really what I would look for in a woods knife. Those long points are just in the way, designed for fighting, not whittling or stripping bark and branches. Never fear, they *will* cut things.

If you want to cut branches or logs, get a saw or an axe. $50 will buy you a nice Wetterlings and a folding saw is much less. A mora will work well for making figure-4 traps and whittling. You can get a Benchmade Rant drop point on line for about $50. the Becker Necker comes to mind for an inexpensive knife that would continue to have some use in the woods.
 
MagicDot said:
A knife is supposed to be used for cutting.
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Then why are many knives made over 1/16th inch thick at the spine? Why are 1/4 inch thick (And thicker) knives in rugged tool steels not only made, but rather popular? Why do saber grinds exist? Why do many knife manufactures put 40-50 degree inclusive edges on their knives? These are not attributes that enhance a knife's ability to cut.
 
Vivi said:
These are not attributes that enhance a knife's ability to cut.
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..and that's why they don't..

..look. I don't care what you use your tool for. I'm only asking why people seem to think that a finely honed *cutting* instrument is supposed to be able to do what another tool is specifically designed for and then use that as some testament of "this is a fine knife.." ..a lamborgini has four wheels and drives, but its not designed for off road mudding like a 4-wheel drive jeep..
 
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kberg - my apologies for de-railing this thread with my comments. Here is that Jarvenpaa leuku I was talking about. Unfortunately, I just noticed that it is more like $75 instead of $50.

http://www.bensbackwoods.com/servlet/Detail?no=229

MagicDot said:
..its your knife.. ::shrug:: ..use it how you see fit. I just don't see the point of buying a tool that isn't designed to do a job when there are tools designed to do the job correctly. ..and no manual told me the proper use for tools: one look and common sense will tell you otherwise.
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MagicDot - your argument is a very old, and somewhat tired one. Let me assure you that it has been discussed many times before. However, if you feel the need to elaborate I invite you to start a thread on the subject rather than have us both take this thread off its intended topic. Such a thread will be guaranteed to produce 8 pages of useless banter among multiple members with the end result being that some people think knives should be used in a limited manner and other people think that they are general purpose tools. Using arguments like 'it is only common sense to....' provides no content but only serves to polarize the issue.
 
kgd said:
MagicDot - your argument is a very old, and somewhat tired one. Let me assure you that it has been discussed many times before. However, if you feel the need to elaborate I invite you to start a thread on the subject rather than have us both take this thread off its intended topic. Such a thread will be guaranteed to produce 8 pages of useless banter among multiple members with the end result being that some people think knives should be used in a limited manner and other people think that they are general purpose tools. Using arguments like 'it is only common sense to....' provides no content but only serves to polarize the issue.
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..I'm, quite frankly, not that interested in a discussion on that topic.. ..I've seen enough hacks on the jobsites to know that people will use a tool however they see fit if it gets the job done for them. I only asked because the guy inquired about a knife for a situation where it was going to be used for a task it wasn't/shouldn't be depended upon and that would do everything but move the moon. I only asked as a way of narrowing his options down. Go be One w/ your steels and hack thru as many ironwood logs as you please w/ it. I don't care.
 
The main issue I have with either of your choices is the double guard that they have. For general camp chores, you'll find they get in the way more than protect. Also I know at least with the Ka-Bar the edge will need some work out of the box. As others have stated the 119 is more of a game processing knife. A good choice others have not mentioned here is the Mora 2000. It has a unique grind which includes a scandi grind throughout the flat of the profile for general cutting of fibers, carving, slicing, shaving etc. The curvy part is flat ground with a secondary bevel for skinning, and scraping hide. The handle is very comfy, still has a small guard, and is easy to clean. It come razor sharp and is easy to maintain. You'll find it for around $30 online. Then with the extra $20-$30, you can get a fiskars hatchet or axe.
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kberg,
We might be able to give you better suggestions if you tell us where abouts you will be camping. Hardwood vs softwood would be a factor in what type of blade you'd want. Where I go, a machete and a smaller fixed blade work wonders.
 
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