5160 or cpm 3v

[Medicine Hat]

I am looking to start building knives with power tools I have built several with Hand tools only really wanted to know how the 5160 will compare to cpm3v I want to start by building a hard use camping type knife with about a 9 or 10 inch blace fairly heavy say 1/4 inch in the cpm3v or maybe slightly thicker in the 5160 as I will be using leaf spring material from a spring shop. Will be used for all camp chores a big knife is used for as I like the bigger bowie type blade but I would like it to have good edge holding ability I have read about the 3v and just wondered how it would compare to the 5160 If there is something better Im open to suggestions Oh and by the way I am not the type to try to cut nails pipe or railroad spikes with the knife I intend it to be used as a knife not a torch Thanks for any ideas or advice

 

[james terrio]

They will both definitely work in that application.
There's a lot to consider, in no particular order:
Method... 5160 can be either forged or ground to shape. I don't know of anyone who forges 3V
Cost... 3V is way more expensive
HT... 3V requires pro-level HT and cryo, 5160 does not
Machinability... 3V is harder to grind and drill, even annealed
Toughness... 3V is tougher (and 5160 is pretty darn tough too)
Edge-holding... 3V will stay sharp a lot longer but it's a bear to re-sharpen. Bring diamonds and patience.
Finish... 5160 can be polished as pretty as you please. 3V can take a real nice hand-rubbed finish, but you better do it before HT. After HT sandpaper slides over it like glass.

 

[Justin King]

What James said. 5160 will be easier to make the knife with but will require more frequent resharpening. 3v is downright painful to work with at times, as James alluded to, abrasives just don't seem to engage the surface like they do on other steels. If you don't plan to whittle on nails, 5160 will probably do you just fine. For whittling on nails I would choose 3v.