52100 and KOA hunter!!!

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here is one of my 52100 hunter in Stabilized KOA from Burlsource! This is the first knife I've ever made with a stabilized wood handle, and the wood is gorgeous, my pics really do the handle no justice.



OAL- 8 3/4"

blade- 4 1/4" long, .150" thick, 1 1/8" wide at the guard

steel- 52100e from a 1" round bar from mcmaster Carr, Forged, with in-house differential heat treatment which includes triple post forging quences, triple normalize, triple anneal, triple edge quench, and triple draw, with 24 hour freezer cycles between thermal events, for the highest performing blade that I can make, that holds a incredible edge, and yet is easy to sharpen!

grind- a full convex grind, with distal taper, sharpened on a Norton Fine India stone with micro bevels, to an agressive razor edge

finish- etcted 1000 grit finish, with a hamon or temper line

handle- a nice piece of stabilized KOA from Burlsource

guard- 1/4" brass, nicely contoured to feel good on the finger, for greater control, and saftey in challenging situations, and 1/8" brass pins

sheath- 8-9oz leather, hand stitched, clean, hot-waxed, with cam, for "snap fit", 3 copper rivets for belt loop. Sheath holds blade securely even when upside down, yet allows instant draw, and is easy to re-sheath one handed.

blade fully tested for edge retention and tip strenth before finishing! The blade is subjected to an edge flex test, where the edge is flexed over a 1/4" brass rod from both sides to check for toughness. These blades will generally make 200 {at a minimum} slicing cuts in 1/2" manilla rope in my shop on a scale, without requiring more than 35lbs of force to complete each cut, and will typically still shave hair from my arm at the end of the 200 cuts! {your performance may vary due to rope consistancy, sharpening teqnique, sharpening stone condition, and cutting skill} note that they will continue to cut the rope, but I stop cutting and counting when they quit shaving {i tested one to over 400 agressive cuts, thats ALOT of cutting to do for each blade!}. The heat treated blades are dropped point first on a concrete floor from a distance of roughly 4 feet before finishing, the blade must exhibit no substansial damage to pass the "concrete floor test". After a blade passes these tests, only then does it go to the finishing stage.


$280 plus $15 for shiping/insurance to CONUS. I can accept paypal Joe357m@bresnan.net or money order.


1st to post "I'll take it" gets it!!!

151352100koaleft.jpg151352100koaright.jpg151352100koablade.jpg151352100koasheath.jpg






Ships within 48 hours of payment priority with ins.

Feedback appreciated, and thanks for looking!

If you would like one like this one or different, PM or email with details!
 
Really a nice knife.

I've always appreciated your detailed description of the heat treat and details of the knife's build. Do you know or have a sense for the hardness of the edge and spine?
 
Twindog,

Thanks!

I dont have a rockwell tester so couldnt tell you the rockwell. I know that a nicholson black diamond file will not cut the edge, but will cut the spine. I believe those files are said to be in the low to mid 60's. yet you can sharpen these on a regular norton fine india stone rather quickly. The one i made for myself this past hunting season (from this steel with this heat treat) has gone through 1 elk, 1 antelope, and 2 deer, and will still take hair from my arm even though it has not seen a stone, steel or strop since the day i finished it.
 
I have been drooling over this knife!
Beautiful and just begs to be used.
If I had the funds, this would be long gone.
 
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