52100: How hard for a straight razor

Joined
Jan 24, 2012
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35
Hello,

I'm making some straight razors out of some 3/16" 52100 scraps I have laying around. I know you want to make the razor as hard as possible for maximum edge retention.

How hard can i get 52100? Can it get it up to 65rc?


Thanks in advance for any imput you may have.
 
I own a couple of old straight razors and they are very flexible at the edge, probably not max hardness
 
I'm no expert but I understand straight razors are not particularly hard, maybe around RC 45-50 or so.
 
I have made several 52100 straight razors. I harden them to 64-65 and draw back to 62-63. they work great that way full hollow ground and a very flexible edge. they just sing when you are shaving with them.
 
52100 is most commonly found as a ball Bering steel. It will hold a great edge if heat treated right.
 
I thought that the elastic modulus is only a function of thickness/cross section, and not hardness?

yep hardness dooes not matter when it comes to flex only when it takes a set or snaps

i too run my razors in 52100 at 62-63 but the older razors in more simple steel have been found to be even lower (remember they wanted ease of honing not max edge holding ) as far as the even lowere numbers i woudl bet that they were tested on the tang cause of it being an easer test site and they were often left near dead soft
 
Lloyd brings out a good point that often gets overlooked when people start talking hardness......The edge may well be harder than the rest of the blade.

Harder edge
1) The thinner section may have better quench results with substandard heating and quenchants. Even when all is good, the thin edge cools far faster than the thick spine. Part of the tang may never get quenched at all.
2) The steel choice may be one that requires longer soaks at higher temps, and the thin edge may get more effects than the thicker spine and tang.
3) The test area is almost always the ricasso or the tang....two places that never cut. Both can be softer than the edge.
4) Testing the actual edge is nearly impossible for the average maker.

Softer edge
1) In other cases, the grinding and inadvertent heating of the edge can make it lower in hardness than the test area.
2) A good reason not to pull the blade from the quenchant too soon is that if it is still hot enough in the thick sections, it can auto-temper the edge and make it loose hardness and edge retention. In worst case scenarios, the edge gets auto-tempered so severely it gets converted back into pearlite. I have seen this happen on edge quenched blades pulled from the quench too soon with a cooled black edge and a still glowing spine. If you edge quench, don't remove the blade from the quenchant until it is all below 200F. Most folks just tip it sideways after the spine looses color, and let it cool in the pan.
 
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