5th Annual: Help Us Build a Buck: 104 Compadre - Blade Steel

[bikerector]

Dozier makes beautiful hunting knives and D2 makes perfect sense for that application, no doubt about it.



It's a discussion, not a debate.

If SK's goal is to sell a limited run of knives to a collectors audience who favors limited runs in unique steels, then asking the question here in the Buck forum is perfect.

If SK's goal is to create a version of the Compadre that will be an ongoing seller to a broader bushcraft/camping/survival audience, then perhaps you're correct that the question should be discussed in another forum. I would suggest either the Wilderness or Outdoor Gear sub-forums but the signal has diminished considerably over the past few months.

So, I created a mirror poll of a sort over in the General Forum. Will be interesting to compare the differences in responses.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/best-steel-for-bushcraft-camp-knife.1649407/

I think this is where the problem lies, best vs. able. You make it sound like D2 can't make a good bushcraft knife, but Dozier and LT have proved that wrong plenty of times, as have other makers and brands. D2 makes a fine bushcraft knife, maybe not the best steel for such a use but pretty darn good none-the less.

You're imposing limits that don't need to exist: that it shouldn't be used in a bushcraft knife if it's not the best steel for the task. We could get into the same discussion about blade geometries and grinds and so on but the fact is that many knives will serve as bushcraft knives, whether ideal or not.

 

[Makael]

It can be both types of carry. Whats tough is a left and a right in the same sheath.

 

[Makael]

Dozier makes beautiful hunting knives and D2 makes perfect sense for that application, no doubt about it.



It's a discussion, not a debate.

If SK's goal is to sell a limited run of knives to a collectors audience who favors limited runs in unique steels, then asking the question here in the Buck forum is perfect.

If SK's goal is to create a version of the Compadre that will be an ongoing seller to a broader bushcraft/camping/survival audience, then perhaps you're correct that the question should be discussed in another forum. I would suggest either the Wilderness or Outdoor Gear sub-forums but the signal has diminished considerably over the past few months.

So, I created a mirror poll of a sort over in the General Forum. Will be interesting to compare the differences in responses.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/best-steel-for-bushcraft-camp-knife.1649407/

The results of your thread are insignificant to this thread.
Plus in gonna bushcraft and baton the living hell out of this knife. A proper "what if" test.

 

[Lesknife]

Also I’m not completely sold on the opinion that a hollow grind blade can’t be used as a bush craft/ survival/ camping knife. I’ve used my hg 124 to split kindling and feather sticks and didn’t have any problems. Same with my 110s . I’m sure a flat grind might could do it better if it was for a competition or in a used only for that work all day long. But in that instance I’d rather use a hatchet or axe and there’s lots of different materials that work just as good or better than feather sticks.

 

[PirateSeulb]

It can be both types of carry. Whats tough is a left and a right in the same sheath.

As a lefty I say deal with it and make it an all type carry

 

[Makael]

As a lefty I say deal with it and make it an all type carry

that would be great.!

 

[Xr6x]

Also I’m not completely sold on the opinion that a hollow grind blade can’t be used as a bush craft/ survival/ camping knife. I’ve used my hg 124 to split kindling and feather sticks and didn’t have any problems. Same with my 110s . I’m sure a flat grind might could do it better if it was for a competition or in a used only for that work all day long. But in that instance I’d rather use a hatchet or axe and there’s lots of different materials that work just as good or better than feather sticks.

No argument there you can use what ever you like but if you where ever stuck somewhere not likely but a Flat Grind would probably take a little more punishment than a hollow grind just saying

 

[pinnah]

You're imposing limits that don't need to exist: that it shouldn't be used in a bushcraft knife if it's not the best steel for the task. We could get into the same discussion about blade geometries and grinds and so on but the fact is that many knives will serve as bushcraft knives, whether ideal or not.

I design things for a living (different field).

I believe in the credo "If the goal is clear the (design) decisions are easy."

The goal of this knife isn't clear, at least not in a group consensus sort of way.

Could a saber ground Compadre in D2 be used for bushcraft? Sure. But then, just about any reasonable fixed blade can be used for bushcraft provided the user understands the knife's limits.

I would ask, assuming this knife will be used for bushcraft and camp use, why pick D2 over a tougher steel like 5160 (or 1095 or even 420HC)? But, it's not a useful question because I'm pretty confident that there's disagreement over the intended use. And that's ok. It will be what it will be.

 

[bikerector]

I design things for a living (different field).

I believe in the credo "If the goal is clear the (design) decisions are easy."

The goal of this knife isn't clear, at least not in a group consensus sort of way.

Could a saber ground Compadre in D2 be used for bushcraft? Sure. But then, just about any reasonable fixed blade can be used for bushcraft provided the user understands the knife's limits.

I would ask, assuming this knife will be used for bushcraft and camp use, why pick D2 over a tougher steel like 5160 (or 1095 or even 420HC)? But, it's not a useful question because I'm pretty confident that there's disagreement over the intended use. And that's ok. It will be what it will be.

Edge retention and some stain resistance. Not all of bushcraft is processing wood, and many bushcraft knives are used for a lot more than such. If we look at a Kephart knife, it's a slicing knife, not a beating knife. Same with a Nessmuk. Similar with a Marbles Woodcraft. Too many modern bushcraft knives try to be a one-knife solution. The compadre can be different while being the same, since almost anything qualifies as a bushcraft knife anymore.

 

[pinnah]

Edge retention and some stain resistance. Not all of bushcraft is processing wood, and many bushcraft knives are used for a lot more than such. If we look at a Kephart knife, it's a slicing knife, not a beating knife. Same with a Nessmuk. Similar with a Marbles Woodcraft. Too many modern bushcraft knives try to be a one-knife solution. The compadre can be different while being the same, since almost anything qualifies as a bushcraft knife anymore.

I would say that many bushcraft knives are simply too thick.

The knife I referenced earlier that this knife will need to displace is a Schrade H-15. The blade stock is about 1/10th of an inch thick. It's ridiculously thin by today's standards. It has a convexed saber grind. It slices beautifully but will still work down kindling from wrist to pencil size very nicely. That knife more than any other taught me that grind trumps blade steel.

 

[bikerector]

It can be both types of carry. Whats tough is a left and a right in the same sheath.

As a lefty I say deal with it and make it an all type carry

So your standard cross-draw horizontal sheath is ambidextrous.

I'm now curious if you can create some type of frog for that cross draw that would additionally make it good as a dangler. I've been playing around with this idea from a way to lash a neck knife to a belt and using the loops on a crossdraw as a stop. Getting some flat and stiffer leather should really make it so the balance of the knife sheath is needed. I have some free-time this week, maybe I'll see what I can do with some scrap pieces of leather I have, or tactical cardboard.

 

[bikerector]

I would say that many bushcraft knives are simply too thick.

The knife I referenced earlier that this knife will need to displace is a Schrade H-15. The blade stock is about 1/10th of an inch thick. It's ridiculously thin by today's standards. It has a convexed saber grind. It slices beautifully but will still work down kindling from wrist to pencil size very nicely. That knife more than any other taught me that grind trumps blade steel.

Is that still made? I've never heard of it but I think I'm an immediate fan. Very nice.

 

[ohen cepel]

On the sheath front I think I would prefer a dangler (that is what I bought for my current Compandre) but horizontal could work for me .

 

[Fixall]

You know... I typically go with a dangler when I’m outdoors and have never actually owned a horizontal sheath. Seems like a nice time to give one a go!

I’m really getting excited about this knife. I can’t wait until the vote on the grind.

 

[bikerector]

So I think I might have a little frog dealie figure out. You would want a chainring bolt or chicago screw at the pivot so it's not a quick docking situation but it would allow the sheath dangler and horizontal carry options.

I think this would work well in a nylon web fabric, like seatbelt material, if the bends could be made. A flexy HDPE would work but it would be ugly.

I think I need to run through one more cardboard prototype as I think this would work best with the dangler attachment at the 2nd bend, above the horizontal carry loop.

 

[Stephen W Huyssoon]

huh ? what would make it a sissy knife? the steel pick or the handle picks coming up? you lost me.......

What's a sissy knife? Or what do you consider a sissy knife? Based on the basic design of the knife already, it pretty much can't be whimpy/weak/fragile, if that's what you're getting at.

It's a 4.5" drop point and it's .16"/4mm thick blade. I think you would be hard pressed to break it, even with the current hollow-grind, though hollow-grinds do make a tip weaker at the benefit of cutting prowess. Basically, don't pry with just the tip too much and I think you should be fine, get it spine deep if you really need separate two things (common in making kindling, for me at least).

It's one of Buck's more robust designs so suggesting we, or whomever "you guys" are, could make it a sissy (assuming whimpy/weak/fragile) knife, is quite strange.

We will try to match your current EDC

A sissy knife would be a purple coated knife with a hollow grind.

But then, I wasn't being too serious. I would like to see a flat grind tough steel and I would rather it not be coated. A coating would get in the way of bushcrafting, would it not?

 

[bikerector]

A sissy knife would be a purple coated knife with a hollow grind.

But then, I wasn't being too serious. I would like to see a flat grind tough steel and I would rather it not be coated. A coating would get in the way of bushcrafting, would it not?

The coating would not get in the way of bushcraft.

 

[bikerector]

So I think I might have a little frog dealie figure out. You would want a chainring bolt or chicago screw at the pivot so it's not a quick docking situation but it would allow the sheath dangler and horizontal carry options.

I think this would work well in a nylon web fabric, like seatbelt material, if the bends could be made. A flexy HDPE would work but it would be ugly.

I think I need to run through one more cardboard prototype as I think this would work best with the dangler attachment at the 2nd bend, above the horizontal carry loop.

A lot easier adaption, use the ankle strap from the buck ops boot knife. It already has another loop that happens to fit a belt.

 

[Stumpy72]

Uncoated D2 for me.

 

[Makael]

I'll think about a reversible sheath that's also has a scout carry option