6 inch file knife / constructive criticism welcome

Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
142
hello everybody
just finished a lil ka'nife shaped object
specs on this knife
6 inch overall length
nicholson file
blue diamond wood
cutting edge is about 2 1/8
flat grind down to a convex secondary at about .018 thick (i listened)
and leather sheath
let me know what you guys / gals think constructive criticism is welcome

-crawdaddy

IMG_0605_zpsbbde5d39.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

IMG_0606_zps9844bf0b.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

IMG_0607_zps260a25f2.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

IMG_0608_zps363b8115.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

IMG_0610_zps75cf69b6.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

IMG_0612_zpsb5ad5d15.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

 
Nice little knife.

The only comment might be that the ricasso looks a little bit wide. This isn't a big thing, and won't affect the knife's use. It might look better if either the edge was brought back farther or the front of the handle was brought forward a bit.
 
Sheath looks serviceable. I won't go into constructive criticism here, but if you're interested, make a thread in the sheaths forum. Some of the best guys in the world (in my opinion) can offer you some tips to make your work even better.

I like the knife! I agree with Stacy about the ricasso. It's mostly a matter of your taste, but a shorter ricasso seems to be en vogue. I like the pin and lanyard tube too.

Looks like a very handy blade. ;)
 
Nice little knife.

The only comment might be that the ricasso looks a little bit wide. This isn't a big thing, and won't affect the knife's use. It might look better if either the edge was brought back farther or the front of the handle was brought forward a bit.

ok, thank you Sir
 
Sheath looks serviceable. I won't go into constructive criticism here, but if you're interested, make a thread in the sheaths forum. Some of the best guys in the world (in my opinion) can offer you some tips to make your work even better.

I like the knife! I agree with Stacy about the ricasso. It's mostly a matter of your taste, but a shorter ricasso seems to be en vogue. I like the pin and lanyard tube too.

Looks like a very handy blade. ;)

cool, and thank you, i will see if i can find the sheath forum.
 
It's much better than the last one.



The blade stock looks pretty thick for that size knife.

The grind line / bevel line on the left and right don't match perfectly - and they are washed out.

If you're going to have them, they should be perfect and crisp.


You can solve all that by going to a full flat grind, minor grind height imperfections don't show that way.


Some people will not buy diamond-wood, especially the nonnatural colours.
It's personal, but "the collectors" have decreed it so, the users probably don't case as much.
diamond-wood has a cheap reputation,that the synthetics don't


Plus the sheath improvements

I'm no sheathmaker, but I see

Are drilling your holes? If so try drilling with a needle rather than a drill
Are you using a stich groover, spacer and overstitch wheel?


The distance of the stitch line to the edge is not consistent, it should be parallel and the stitch lines should be controlled and even.


Smaller holes, burnished edges, use a clean worksurface so you don't get all those little nicks and scratches.
The bottom end of the strap is not cut straight.
The edges of the strap are not burnished finished.
The punch stamps are not lined up straight to the sheath and perfectly centered
The punch stamps are not a consistent depth, one side is deeper than the other and it really shows on the outside border
Grind your stamps down to remove the border and use an arbor press to get an even consistent flat press that you can control the height..

maybe finished with neatlac




Once you're selling, I'd think about using your real name.
 
Last edited:
It's much better than the last one.



The blade stock looks pretty thick for that size knife.

The grind line / bevel line on the left and right don't match perfectly - and they are washed out.

If you're going to have them, they should be perfect and crisp.


You can solve all that by going to a full flat grind, minor grind height imperfections don't show that way.


Some people will not buy diamond-wood, especially the nonnatural colours.
It's personal, but "the collectors" have decreed it so, the users probably don't case as much.
diamond-wood has a cheap reputation,that the synthetics don't


Plus the sheath improvements

I'm no sheathmaker, but I see

Are drilling your holes? If so try drilling with a needle rather than a drill
Are you using a stich groover, spacer and overstitch wheel?


The distance of the stitch line to the edge is not consistent, it should be parallel and the stitch lines should be controlled and even.


Smaller holes, burnished edges, use a clean worksurface so you don't get all those little nicks and scratches.
The bottom end of the strap is not cut straight.
The edges of the strap are not burnished finished.
The punch stamps are not lined up straight to the sheath and perfectly centered
The punch stamps are not a consistent depth, one side is deeper than the other and it really shows on the outside border
Grind your stamps down to remove the border and use an arbor press to get an even consistent flat press that you can control the height..

maybe finished with neatlac




Once you're selling, I'd think about using your real name.

thank you for taking the time to bring your input, i appreciate it,
thickness of blade stock, in the future when i can get it sorted, i planing on using 1/8 or 3/16 at most for this little knife, this one is actually smaller than i normally do, but was requested by my customer so they could pocket carry a fixed blade.
on the eveness of the bevel, will have to work on that, i guess that just comes from making a pile of knives, but will work on that
on the washed out, i thought that was the point of the hand rubbed satin finish was to wash it out a little bit and kind of blend things, i used the flat straight piece of redwood scrap over the sandpaper, but since crisp is the order of the day, i will work on that, maybe i need to take it past 320 grit?

check on collectors on the diamond wood, i have some cocobolo and winewood etc that i got to use on the next couple knives,

sheath, i am drilling my holes, and attempting to keep the sheath oriented in the same direction with each hole
i am using a stitching groover, just got it about 3 sheaths ago
i have no money to buy leather, most of the nicks and stuff come from pulling the leather out of the dumpster
will work on the cut lines, and burnish strap, and lining up stamps better, gotta figure out something on that.
i have no press, and no money to buy one, and i am selling knives, about 20 since i started back, but i have to use the money to pay bills, buy groceries and try to scratch the rest together the best i can.
thanks again for your input
 
thank you for taking the time to bring your input, i appreciate it,
thickness of blade stock, in the future when i can get it sorted, i planing on using 1/8 or 3/16 at most for this little knife, this one is actually smaller than i normally do, but was requested by my customer so they could pocket carry a fixed blade.
on the eveness of the bevel, will have to work on that, i guess that just comes from making a pile of knives, but will work on that
on the washed out, i thought that was the point of the hand rubbed satin finish was to wash it out a little bit and kind of blend things, i used the flat straight piece of redwood scrap over the sandpaper, but since crisp is the order of the day, i will work on that, maybe i need to take it past 320 grit?

check on collectors on the diamond wood, i have some cocobolo and winewood etc that i got to use on the next couple knives,

sheath, i am drilling my holes, and attempting to keep the sheath oriented in the same direction with each hole
i am using a stitching groover, just got it about 3 sheaths ago
i have no money to buy leather, most of the nicks and stuff come from pulling the leather out of the dumpster
will work on the cut lines, and burnish strap, and lining up stamps better, gotta figure out something on that.
i have no press, and no money to buy one, and i am selling knives, about 20 since i started back, but i have to use the money to pay bills, buy groceries and try to scratch the rest together the best i can.
thanks again for your input

If you can't afford the tools and supplies you need, you need to charge more, or make more money another way.
don't feel bad about working another job until you have developed skills, experience and a client base.

Watch Nick Wheeler's hand sanding videos for help, crisp lines are from hard backing and consistent angles,not grits.

on the eveness of the bevel, will have to work on that, i guess that just comes from making a pile of knives, but will work on that
No, you have to pay attention to it and work to get it right, You can make 100 more and still see no improvement.


If it's dumpster leather how do you know that it's veg tanned and not chrome tanned. ?

Improving quality will help you increase your prices.
 
If you can't afford the tools you need, you need to charge more, or make more money another way.


Watch Nick Wheeler's hand sanding videos for help, crisp lines are from hard backing and consistant angles,not grits.


No, you have to pay attention to it and work to get it right, You can make 100 more and still see no improvement.


If it's dumpster leather how do you know that it's veg tanned and not chrome tanned. ?

Improving quality will help you increase your prices.

thank you, and will look at Nick Wheeler's video and i have zero idea what the leather is, i don't claim it to one or the other,
i will continue to work at getting my grind lines better, i am working on a harbor freight 1x30 and when i can put some money back i plan to rebuild my 2x72, but either one i still have to concentrate on getting my grind lines, it's just easier when the sander doesn't stall.
and yes improving quality etc. and that is why i am here, i had only been on youtube posting videos of my knives, and all i was getting was atta boys, if i don't know what is wrong i can't fix it, so that is why i came over here.
thank you kindly for taking your time
 
thank you, and will look at Nick Wheeler's video and i have zero idea what the leather is, i don't claim it to one or the other,
i will continue to work at getting my grind lines better, i am working on a harbor freight 1x30 and when i can put some money back i plan to rebuild my 2x72, but either one i still have to concentrate on getting my grind lines, it's just easier when the sander doesn't stall.
and yes improving quality etc. and that is why i am here, i had only been on youtube posting videos of my knives, and all i was getting was atta boys, if i don't know what is wrong i can't fix it, so that is why i came over here.
thank you kindly for taking your time

That's a problem

chrome tanned leather will rust a blade in a heartbeat.
 
That's a problem

chrome tanned leather will rust a blade in a heartbeat.

and that is a good piece of information to have, i have to go into town tomorrow for some errands, i will stop by and see if i can talk to anyone in the saddle shop and find out. i have wondered why there was such a big deal over the two, i just thought people were being "green" minded, thanks for the heads up
 
Chrome tanned leather doesn't take and hold a stamp well. Most saddle shops use veg tanned, or some types of oiled and latigo leathers.

An old trick for determining if it's chrome tanned is to burn a small scrap. If the ashes rub green, it's likely chrome.

All of that said, I have no idea what that is. Asking the shop owner is a great idea.

Definitely don't use it if chrome. Veg tanned is most common, but some other leathers are okay. Can't remember which, I only use veg tanned.

Glad to see you have posted in the sheaths forum. Please take the advice in the light that it has been given. Effort goes a long way, and you'll improve quickly if you continue your efforts to learn. ;)
 
Chrome tanned leather doesn't take and hold a stamp well. Most saddle shops use veg tanned, or some types of oiled and latigo leathers.

An old trick for determining if it's chrome tanned is to burn a small scrap. If the ashes rub green, it's likely chrome.

All of that said, I have no idea what that is. Asking the shop owner is a great idea.

Definitely don't use it if chrome. Veg tanned is most common, but some other leathers are okay. Can't remember which, I only use veg tanned.

Glad to see you have posted in the sheaths forum. Please take the advice in the light that it has been given. Effort goes a long way, and you'll improve quickly if you continue your efforts to learn. ;)

i have zero idea what i will do for sheaths if its chrome tanned, but i will cross that bridge when i come to it.
i am trying hard, i know that most new knife makers have no skill set to bring to the table, so not only are they trying to learn how to make a knife, they are also trying to learn how to use tools. so when seasoned folks say quality tools and quality materials i am all over that and i agree. and i understand the need to inform new people of these things, but when that is the only thing addressed that is not constructive. imho learning to work the tools you have on hand and not blaming the equipment is big with me, what i have now sucks and i know it, but it's all i got. i've watched videos and seen articles on various things over the time that i have been doing this, but with no feedback, and that is why i am here, if i am not focusing enough on my grooving tool and that is why my stitching is jacked up that is where i need to focus my practicing, if it is my drill pressing the holes then i need to figure a better way to drill the holes, etc... i can make a mirror finish that looks like fresh poured glass, but it takes me 80 hours to do, i've gotta have the grinding symmetry, handle shaping, sheath refinement to go with it. or it don't matter how flawless the mirror finish is. and up until i started posting on here all i've ever gotten were atta boys, well while it's nice to get encouragement for your work, it doesn't help me to get better, the hard cutting truth is what is needed, i got it. i am swimming in the deep end with you guys, some of the greatest knife makers ever, i got it, when you or someone says my grind lines are off, its like i knew they were off, i thought they were close enough. or i would have done more to try and fix it. i'm trying to sell 75 dollar knives not 750 dollar knives, i'm not trying to get into a magazine, i'm just trying to feed my family. at some point down the road when i have some breathing room i still don't know that i will be concerned about those things, but i do want to be good at what i do, not just adequate, and that is the reason i came to the forum and jumped in the deep end. and i can honestly say i have found no where else that people or makers are as honest as i need them to be so i can get better. but i have gotten it here, for the most part, and i appreciate it. i have already picked up more than a couple of things, one for instance, in all my research i never thought to look into or ask, and don't remember anyone mentioning how thick to leave the edge for the secondary bevel, now i know, besides it makes it a lot easier to set the bevels and sharpen...lol
so to all who have contributed i say thank you, and again i apologize for not having a sense of humor,
 
Back
Top