$60ish fixed blade for camping

FortyTwoBlades said:
I do not consider Moras excellent slicers, except perhaps for the #223 and #333. Scandi grinds are great on wood, but generally are very poor slicers compared to other grinds, unless done in very thin stock which helps compensate somewhat.
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That's just it, even the Mora 2000 ("survival"-style) is <1/10" stock, around half what most manufacturers use, so even a short scandi-grind on these produces an acute edge, and round off those shoulders with a bit of sandpaper :thumbup: that's a pretty decent slicer.
 
I guess my standards of what I consider good performance in slicing is a little more persnickety than most. :p
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I guess my standards of what I consider good performance in slicing is a little more persnickety than most. :p
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Perhaps ;)

But one thing I look at is how quickly (how far back from the very edge) the blade stock reaches 2mm-thick as a measure of how much the blade must force apart the cutting medium to make deep penetration (as is required in tough materials like wood). Since most Mora stock is only 2mm thickness, that gives them the advantage that once the bevel has split the medium 2mm wide, the blade can slide through vs. most other knives which feature a primary bevel which continues to widen. To improve slicing ability of these thicker blades, the edge needs to be much thinner than the Mora which can be left at even 45-inclusive (very robust) and match them... again, this is on specific materials where deep penetration is required. On paper & rope, etc. that separates immediately upon being cut, the thinner & more polished edge (vs. stock) wins both in cutting efficiency and edge-retention (assuming steels of similar performance). I don't do much slicing of thermal paper and the like, I'm looking at wood and meat, etc. For me, a robust polished edge on a thin blade means excellent slicing that endures. :thumbup:

Doesn't the same hold true for machetes (your forte)? Put a sharp but robust edge on a very thin stock for a tool that will slice away at tough materials all day long (though obviously not designed for chopping wood where it may bind and bend)?

(btw, I haven't sprung for that Condor-Viking yet, other expenditures got in the way, but you will be taking my money for one at some point here... ;))
 
I have heard the Cold Steel Bushman series for an overall slicer and camp knife, good for basic stuff and not expensive if broken. The sheath leaves alot to be desired, but I seen others use a rubber tubing on the outside for a grip, and you plug up the hole on the front to so you can put some small gear in the hollow handle. Just an idea to practice your skill, plus you can make a spear out of it need to defend against Big foot.
 
I love how any fixed blade discussion or recommendation on this forum eventually moves to suggesting a mora no matter how many times people say they don't want one or they already have one (or 2 in my case). Guess it's a reflection on how great moras really are. but anyways, I saw a bk-16 on the exchange and nabbed it. I think the sheath is ugly and i'm not a huge fan of the scales but I'll see how it treats me and if it's not my thing i'll sell it and maybe try an esee-4 or a queen. thanks for the suggestions.
 
chiral.grolim said:
Perhaps ;)

But one thing I look at is how quickly (how far back from the very edge) the blade stock reaches 2mm-thick as a measure of how much the blade must force apart the cutting medium to make deep penetration (as is required in tough materials like wood). Since most Mora stock is only 2mm thickness, that gives them the advantage that once the bevel has split the medium 2mm wide, the blade can slide through vs. most other knives which feature a primary bevel which continues to widen. To improve slicing ability of these thicker blades, the edge needs to be much thinner than the Mora which can be left at even 45-inclusive (very robust) and match them... again, this is on specific materials where deep penetration is required. On paper & rope, etc. that separates immediately upon being cut, the thinner & more polished edge (vs. stock) wins both in cutting efficiency and edge-retention (assuming steels of similar performance). I don't do much slicing of thermal paper and the like, I'm looking at wood and meat, etc. For me, a robust polished edge on a thin blade means excellent slicing that endures. :thumbup:

Doesn't the same hold true for machetes (your forte)? Put a sharp but robust edge on a very thin stock for a tool that will slice away at tough materials all day long (though obviously not designed for chopping wood where it may bind and bend)?

(btw, I haven't sprung for that Condor-Viking yet, other expenditures got in the way, but you will be taking my money for one at some point here... ;))
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See the problem is that you're looking at how quickly 2mm thickness is reached. First off, many Moras are--in fact--thicker than that, and secondly part of the problem IS how quickly a scandi grind reaches full thickness. This increases the height of the ramp you're pushing through material. At equal spine thickness and edge angle a full flat grind will be a much better slicer because it does not have to displace as much material, and the force required to do so is spread out over a more gradual ramp. Yes--it'll be more delicate, but a Mora not coming from their food service line will never find its way into my kitchen. I have my Victorinox paring knife for any tasks that a Mora Companion might be able to handle.

In the woods a Mora is great, but I just disagree with using them in the kitchen (aside from their food service line) as their grind is designed for very different tasks than food prep. I actually keep my machetes at a thinner edge angle than the bevel on Moras and nearly all of my machetes are well under 1/8" thick, but I'm also not slicing carrots with them. A scandi grind will slice effectively on soft or flexible targets like meat, tomatos, bananas, etc. but it will tend to wedge and break through carrots, celery, or apples. I like a food prep knife to be thin with a high grind. My Opinel No.8 with its full convex grind, for instance will run circles around a typical Mora in an apple slicing contest.

All the above said, I adore my Moras for a lot of different tasks--just not for kitchen work.

No worries about the Viking. It's a favorite of mine so I'll be keeping them in stock for a loooooong time and I can sympathize with needing to put funds towards more critical things. :)
 
Go to walmart and get the buck 119. I promise the 119 has done more camping and hunting than any other fixed blade model.
 
fatherhudson said:
I love how any fixed blade discussion or recommendation on this forum eventually moves to suggesting a mora no matter how many times people say they don't want one or they already have one (or 2 in my case). Guess it's a reflection on how great moras really are. but anyways, I saw a bk-16 on the exchange and nabbed it. I think the sheath is ugly and i'm not a huge fan of the scales but I'll see how it treats me and if it's not my thing i'll sell it and maybe try an esee-4 or a queen. thanks for the suggestions.
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I was looking more at the price range / limit when I was suggesting a different to the normal mora .

Totally my bad tho , i am so used to looking at local retail prices here ... 100-200% above the usual prices I see advertised in the US . name like becker and esee , unless Im importing for myself ,are just so far out of my price range its silly , when I do import myself , the temptation to move new gear along at a nice profit instead of using it is hard to resist ... so yeah ,I suggested mora, but a different version to the regular one .. Im also nursing to cut fingers from mine right now .. if I didnt have a bone to stop the blade ,itd have taken a good part of one finger off .A long story involving a dying cat puking ,fighting inlaws , and screaming child ...

If you are able, Id suggest making your own , as an aside to using ready made ones .. you know you dont want mora, youre trying a couple other makes , when you figure out what else you dont like about them , put the good bits into your own design .

it really gives a good insight into what works , and doesnt ,whats great and what good looking but needless fluff about a knife for the things you use it for .
 
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