62rc too hard for 52100 240mm Gyuto?

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Jan 5, 2014
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Hello,

I'm currently designing a 240mm 52100 gyuto, and am trying to determine how hard to make it. I would like to make it as hard as possible to maximize edge retention, however, I want to stop before the point to where the edge becomes chippy. I'm thinking 62rc would be a good choice....do you agree? Could I push it higher safely?

A while ago, I made a hunting Knife out of 52100. I had it heat treated to 60rc, and it's plenty tough. Is there a noticeable decline in toughness between 60rc and 62rc on 52100.

Thanks in advance................


Listed below are some specs for reference:

Steel: Aldo's 52100
Planned Edge Angle: Between 10 and 15 degrees per side
Blade Length: 240mm (9.5in)
Thickness: ~3/32 in at the spine. Much less than that behind the edge.
 
Lost my other post. Ahh well. Anyways I think that is about the max atleast that I would go with. Now remember HRC is only one variable but with that steel I shoot on the hard end for 61-62HRC, about 59-60 for say the average hunting knife. I just recently did a forged kitchen knife that I ground very thin (for me) think it was .011 behind the edge for most of it. This blade was 63HRC. After several edge flex test it developed a crack coming up from the edge just about 1/4".

That being said it still survived several test and probably would have made a most excellent veggie or meat slicer. Just probably not gonna be going thru any bones. It showed great flex up until that point without any chipping.

All that being said 62 is what I would consider a goal for something like a kitchen slicer or fillet knife or a small bird and trout that has a slightly thicker edge since it will be fighting fowl bones and what not.

That being said dont take my word as the end all. I would get some opinions from guys that have been using this steel for alot longer then I have. I think its one of the best carbon steels for various applications and really enjoy working with it (ok maybe not forging down large stock, doesnt move very easy).
 
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I've made knives with edges as hard as 65 HRc, with no chipping/toughness issues during kitchen use. They weren't 52100, but it doesn't seem like a bad idea.
 
I would shoot for maximum hardness in the quench, and then temper back to Rc62. After the second temper, put a good edge on it and test the edge before putting the handle permanently on. If it is chippy, re-temper at 25°F higher. Once you like the edge, dull it back and finish the bevels.
 
Stacy pointed something out I think I missed. Wanted to say out of the quench I get 66-67HRC then temper it back like he recommends. Didnt want you to think I was saying to shoot for 62 out of the quench.
 
62-63 is no problem on 52100 so long as you get it all the way hard and then remove RA then temper back from 66rc kitchen knives and razors are truely the F1 of the knife world
 
As stated before 62-63 is no problem with 52100. I typically bring my bevels from anywhere down from .006 to .010 before final sharpening of 30 degrees inclusive on some of the knives I've made used in commercial and restaurant applications (sushi and Italian kitchens), and they haven't chipped or rolled.
 
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