64 Rc Leek Project Update

Hi STR, thanks again for your comments. When I have had problem steels like that the solution was diamond abrasive. I have no scientific explanation and anything I said would be pure conjecture, but a combination of an extra-fine diamond hone and stropping on .5 micron diamond grit seems to overcome all metallic objections.
 
Thanks Jeff. Not sure where to find such an animal to try that with the diamond but it sounds good. Any links? Also, thanks for the comments Larrin, and Svrider3.


STR
 
STR said:
Thanks Jeff. Not sure where to find such an animal to try that with the diamond but it sounds good. Any links? Also, thanks for the comments Larrin, and Svrider3.


STR
Click to expand...

You can find a 3 micron/8000 mesh diamond stone here.

I haven't tried it mearly for the fact that I like a little more bite.
I finish my blades off at 1200.

Sorry, just noticed Jeff said stropping at .5 micron.
 
a few results from a quick googling of sub micron diamond
http://www.smg-diamond.com/Table.html
http://www.metallographic.com/Consumables/Lapping Films-Diamond2.htm
http://www.emsdiasum.com/microscopy/products/materials/polishing_supplies.aspx
http://www.cabbingmachines.com/polishes.shtml

I'm not sure what could be causing the problem sharpening 52100 & 13C26 at high hardness. Why were you told it was retained austenite? RA reduces the hardness of a quenched blade, the couple extra points gained from cryo is because of the transformation of RA to untempered martensite. Would seem that you would have less retained austenite for a harder blade. Neither of those steels have the really hard carbide formers, would they get anything harder than cementite or K2 chromium carbide? http://www.tedpella.com/material_html/charts.htm
 
For the extra-fine diamond hone I am simply talking about the finest standard (non perforated) EZ-Lap or DMT bench hone. They work smoother once they are broken in. For diamond polishing compound you can go to Graves (they are a lapidary supply company). http://www.gravescompany.com/polishin.htm

I got a real cool kit at a Woodcraft store. It has something like 6 different diamond grits, a small fine diamond hone, wood blooks and a glass plate to use with the paste. It is intend for wood chisels and planes, but the stuff was nice for knives. I particularly like the color-coded pastes.
 
Thanks guys on the links.

I'll look into it.

Hardheart, the retained austenite as part of the culprit is a guess based on conversations with others. I don't know enough about it to venture to guess but what I do know is that you can still have a blade that performs well with a good amount of retained austenite. Cashen has written on this with 52100 and it was something the steel is designed to do for ball bearings which was one of the main reasons (as I understand it) that he downplayed it as a cutlery steel vs what you will hear from some of the other MS using it.


STR
 
Yeah, he doesn't seem to care for it because it's a trickier beast in the HT. I want to play with it a bit cause I'm not trying to make a living making blades from it. If I ever get my shop space back I'm gonna play around with agitating and water injecting methods for low temp salts and marquenching and/or austempering.
 
I hear there is a Sandvik Leek out there with model number: KS1660OLBLK

Is this one any harder than normal? Is it just a stock model or a special run?
 
The blades were not done up in a higher hardness. It is a short run though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top