6A4LV titanium .050 thick

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EdgeCraft

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Mar 27, 2009
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I searched for linerlock and framelock ti thickness for a just under 3" knife. I saw various answers. Is .050 about right for both linerlock and framelock for that size knife? One recent answer gave a thickness for titanium that was mildly Heat Treated. What if there is no HT as is usual?
 
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.050" Is OK for a linerlock on a smallish blade providing you don't cut the lock too long.
Framelocks are by definition thicker than a linerlock.
I generally cut the relief on my framelocks to around .062"
 
Brian Fellhoelter Knives said:
.050" Is OK for a linerlock on a smallish blade providing you don't cut the lock too long.
Framelocks are by definition thicker than a linerlock.
I generally cut the relief on my framelocks to around .062"
Click to expand...

Did you mean that the thickness for your framelocks is around .062? I did'nt understand "relief" in this context.

"Providing you don't cut the lock too long".
What length do you cut your lock? For your linerlock and framelock. About 2" for say a 2 7/8 " blade knife.?
(I'm measuring the visibal portion of the blade, (or should it be measured from edge to edge of the metal for stated length? I'm trying to comply with a Knife Law of less than 3".)
I hope my questions make sense. Please tell me if they do not.
 
Well, a framelock is made from thick material, so it needs relief cut to allow the lock to spring.
1/8" to 1/4" titanium with no relief cut in it would put some tremendous force on the blade, and your finger would have a hell of a time overcoming the lock once you finally got it open.

I'm about 8,000 miles from any of my knives right now, so measuring the lockbar length is tough, but I'd say 2" is not too long, and is probably a tad short.

Seems like my last one I used thinner Ti on had a 2.5" lock bar on a blade that measured 4" from pivot to tip.
 
Brian Fellhoelter Knives said:
Well, a framelock is made from thick material, so it needs relief cut to allow the lock to spring.
1/8" to 1/4" titanium with no relief cut in it would put some tremendous force on the blade, and your finger would have a hell of a time overcoming the lock once you finally got it open.

I'm about 8,000 miles from any of my knives right now, so measuring the lockbar length is tough, but I'd say 2" is not too long, and is probably a tad short.

Seems like my last one I used thinner Ti on had a 2.5" lock bar on a blade that measured 4" from pivot to tip.
Click to expand...

Yes, now I see, "relief" means "relief cut", and that is what I am asking about.
Thanks. Proportionally if you use a 2.5" relief cut on a 4" knife, it seems that 1.875" would work for a 3" knife. But then my math is hopeless, and I just guessed how to do it.
Now "back to our previously scheduled event" :) :It seems you are saying for thickness: .050 for a linerlock, and .062 for a framelock for a 3" knife. Correct? Thanks.
Also, am I right that blade length is measured from the portion showing by the handle to the tip, rather than from the actual end of the metal inside the handle to the tip, as far as "legal" definition of length? Thanks again.
 
By relief, I mean reduction in thickness, not length of lockbar.

Say I am making a framelock from 1/8" material.
I will cut a relief at the back of the spring to say 1/16" thickness.
Framelocks are thick, using the frame as a lock....
Linerlocks use a liner as a lock.....

As far as legal goes, I ain't no Lawyer.
Though I did have a Deputy DA call and ask the same question.
I told her I measure it from the end of the handle/guard/bolster to the tip.

In my state, there seems to be no concrete answer to that question.

That knife that's 4" from pivot to tip only has a 3-3/8" blade...
 
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