710 or military? or sebenza?

Strange that no one has asked about the failure mode on the Caly.

-Was it user error, ie. was the lock not fully engaged?
-Was the lock dirty from previous use or EDC so that it was not fully locked?

From what I've heard from the Caly something is bound to break before the lock mechanism itself breaks.

Did the lock work afterwards?

Inquiring minds want to know :).

Orange joe,

Hi
The caly 3 is a fine lockback. However, it felt weak for the task in my hand. the handle felt too thin it actually herts my hand when i apply allot of force.

I know that it is not designed for this kind of job. The blade was also short.. It was the knife i had on me though and it had to do.

I dont believe the lock was dirty or had pocket lint. I think it was fully engaged. the blade got stuck in cartridge of the ribs as i was pressing it down very hard. It failed on the pull movment.
 
Not exactily the same thing, but I once slashed a carpet roll with a endura3 and after the follow through, the blade hit my hand. I figure this is because the lock was actually pressed down durring a tight grip. Even with the boyd? dent I find I still loosen most lockbacks with a tight grip.

Thanks rifon2-"Boye dent"
 
Orange joe,

Hi
The caly 3 is a fine lockback. However, it felt weak for the task in my hand. the handle felt too thin it actually herts my hand when i apply allot of force.

I know that it is not designed for this kind of job. The blade was also short.. It was the knife i had on me though and it had to do.

I dont believe the lock was dirty or had pocket lint. I think it was fully engaged. the blade got stuck in cartridge of the ribs as i was pressing it down very hard. It failed on the pull movment.

Gracias. It's not often where one gets to read actual user reports about a Spydie lock failure.

Thanks for the additional info.
 
People have used folders successfully for years in the field, for utility and for cleaning their catch. Traditional folders at that, without locks. If you've had a problem with a folder, either your technique needs improving or your equipment does. A small fixed blade is much more reliable and easier to maintain in the field.

If you do want a locking folder, I suggest a lockback because the blade channel is unobstructed, making maintenance much easier. You should consider a backlock like the Buck 110 rather than a midlock or frontlock for security.
 
Hi folks.
I have a caly3 that failed under the pressure of my own hand when I stuck it in the rib cage of a deer. I k now that a fixed blade is better but i am more likly to carry a folder than a fixed blae.

first of all, do you consider these 3knives hard use knives? are they in the same league when it comes to strength?

second, which of these 4# blades would you prefer and why?

I am looking for a folder with a 4# blade that can withstand rough use.

It will be a camp, hunting and skinning folder for big game.

The manix is too big with out offering extra blade length.

Thanks

WHAT THE HELL KIND OF DEER DID YOU STICK THAT MADE YOUR KNIFE FAIL?
A JOHN DEERE!
 
I think Esav really hit the nail on the head. Fixed blade would be best but the Buck 110 is relatively inexpensive and should serve you well. I thought in England it's illegal to carry any locking pocket knife.:confused:
 
I think Esav really hit the nail on the head. Fixed blade would be best but the Buck 110 is relatively inexpensive and should serve you well. I thought in England it's illegal to carry any locking pocket knife.:confused:

Better yet, he should upgrade and pick up the Cabela's Alaskan Guide S30V 110. Not much better out there, and well under your price limit to boot :thumbup:
 
I would think the Military would be the ideal one of those mentioned, as it is light, thin and strong (but not as thin as the Caly3), as well as having a long slender blade perfect for what you say you were doing and the open back design lends itself to easy cleaning.
 
I would recommand the BM710. I used my knives very hard and the axis has never failed. It is very hard to clean. I have taken it apart so many time to clean that the threads in the screw is starting to loose. Again IT IS A PAIN TO CLEAN but I think it is worth it.
 
lighter and with a longer blade than BM710, you could find may-be a second hand BM803 TSEK.
i personnaly like it but it's not axis lock but liner lock...
 
To clean the 710 wash it underwater well by shaking it vigorously, then Blast the water off with an air compress, blast that off with the compressor, then clean the blade to remove the WD40. Excellent results. Definitely the 710 is awesome.
 
You could send your caly in to STR to have him turn it into a frame lock.
I can't imagine trying to clean blood and guts out of an axis lock every time.
I also don't understand why the caly's blade was to short. I have seen guys skin out large game with 2 and 3 inch fixed blades without a problem. I usually use my F1.
 
I knew I'd seen a thread like this years ago Buzzbat's review was a great one.

I'm another that thinks your going to be best served with a Fixed blade. Right now I'd say the Busse Badger Attack is a good choice. BRKT has about the biggest selection or styles and options for you needs.

As to the which folder will work best, and I'd prefer? Of the three? Lg Seb 1st, 710 in M2 (I so wish I never sold it), and Mili last. All three are tough knives and have their better qualities. I'd rather the Seb for the field and the 710 for home for the urban life, and carry a Caly jr everywhere.

Buck 110 is also an excellent choice for your needs. Classic and proven.
 
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