80 grit (or lower) Diamond Stone for Edge Pro

Lenny

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Joined
Oct 15, 1998
Messages
2,486
Who makes the best one?
I normally put an edge on my knife at something smaller than 40 degrees with my Edge Pro.
I then use my Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker at the 40 degree setting to maintain and put a micro-bevel on the edge.
Doing this until I can't get a good edge with the Sharpmaker means it takes quite a while to again apex the edge past the micro-bevel with the Edge Pro.
I'd like to speed this up with a good/fast cutting diamond stone made for the Edge Pro.
Recommendations?
Thanks
 
Silicon carbide should be cheap and fast, and compete with diamond for speed, except maybe on supersteels -- but some say that you don't need diamond/CBN for supersteels at the coarse end of the spectrum, because you don't need to cut the carbides until you get to finer grits. I have not tried that myself. I wonder if anyone is offering Crystolon coarse in EdgePro format.
 
Ooh, that's an expensive stone.
Is there another type of stone that cuts faster than diamond?

Nothing cuts faster than diamond, however the type of stone or rather the construction can matter. The Venev stones listed above are resin bonded so the diamonds are embedded in a resin matrix, think like the chocolate chips in a cookie. Only a portion of the diamond is generally sticking out so may not cut quite as fast as an electroplated diamond for example, but they're still diamond so they don't exactly cut slow. Electroplated diamond stones cut faster (and are cheaper) because the diamonds are adhered to the top of the surface so they are more aggressive in cutting. However they don't last as long as a bonded stone. Once the diamonds wear out or get knocked off on an electroplated stone, that's it, whereas a bonded stone you can resurface them to expose more diamonds in the resin matrix. So depends on if you just want the fastest cutting or the longest lasting.
 
Silicon carbide should be cheap and fast, and compete with diamond for speed, except maybe on supersteels -- but some say that you don't need diamond/CBN for supersteels at the coarse end of the spectrum, because you don't need to cut the carbides until you get to finer grits. I have not tried that myself. I wonder if anyone is offering Crystolon coarse in EdgePro format.
Congress Tools Moldmaster stones are Silicon Carbide. The 80 grit works well for major work taking out deep chips in most steels. The 80 grit is a soft stone, buy a few as they wear quickly but are very low cost. Buy the 1”x 1/4” x 6” size.


For a diamond plate, Chef Knives to Go, cuts Atoma 140’s to fit the Edge Pro. The Atomas are fantastic, highly recommend buying one in each grit. The Atoma 140 is a very aggressive cutter and should easily handle most any task one would tackle on an Edge Pro. I use food grade mineral oil on both Atomas and DMT’s. Grocery stores and pharmacies sell it as a laxative for a few dollars for a pint.


I have no connection to either company or the products, just very satisfied after using them on my Edge Pro.
 
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The best would be the Diamond Matrix from Edge Pro.

If you have an edge pro why go to the Sharpmaker? Why not just keep using the Edge Pro?

That being said I have an Edge Pro and do use a Shrapmaker with some recurve blades and because it is quick and easy to use.
 
I will second the edge pro matrix in 80, great for reprofiling. They are made by Columbia Gorge Stone works and sometimes he has second on his site CSGW.US for $66.00 He is D Diemaker here on the forum
 
The Atoma 140 is a very fast cutter! I have most of the Edge Pro Matrix but not only the 240 on up, with my heavy duty stuff begin handled by the electroplated diamonds. I did just get a Hapstone Start 150 grit diamond but I've not used it yet. Personally I prefer not to go any lower than 140 as those scratches are pretty deep, plus an electroplated 150 is pretty danged fast. FWIW I really wanted the Hapstone Start 150 CBN but I ordered it only to get an email that it was out of stock.

Most of my 1x6 stones were purchased years ago. I got the EP Matrix late last year and I was surprised at how many options there are now. Between Poltova, CSGW, Venev, etc there lots of advanced diamond and CBN products that I've not really tried yet. But I plan to over the rest of the year.
 
The best would be the Diamond Matrix from Edge Pro.

If you have an edge pro why go to the Sharpmaker? Why not just keep using the Edge Pro?

That being said I have an Edge Pro and do use a Shrapmaker with some recurve blades and because it is quick and easy to use.

I have a similar process to OP, though I use a TsProf instead of an Edge Pro.

When I set a knife up in the TsProf I go through my entire progression, get the knife good and sharp, and then use it until it needs a touch up. When it needs a touch up, rather than setting up the TsProf again, I can do 20-30 swipes on the Sharpmaker in right around 30 seconds and bring back a hair popping edge. It is a quick, easy touch up that I can do literally every day if I used the knife a lot that day. I'm not willing to sit down with my TsProf every day so the Sharpmaker keeps my knives cutting in between those sessions.
 
I use a strop between sharpenings. The rough cow side is doped with 9 micron Stroppy Stuff emulsion and the smooth kangaroo side gets 0.5 micron SS diamond. This is plenty to keep my home kitchen knives going for a couple months.
 
I'd like to speed this up with a good/fast cutting diamond stone made for the Edge Pro.

Like BMO already said, the diamond stones from EdgePro specific are a diamond matrix. They're nice. But if your primary goal is hogging off a lot of material quickly, you'll want a diamond plate where the diamonds adhere to the surface of the plate. I got a set of three cheap ones from ChefKnivesToGo. They're thin, so I glued them to some aluminum blanks. Don't be fooled just because the coarsest stone is 120 grit. These cut much faster than the EdgePro diamond matrix. I just checked, and now they come mounted to plastic blanks. They're still $27.50. It's a nice product at a nice price. You'll like them.
 
A lot of good suggestions here.
I've come to the conclusion that my method (using the Sharpmaker for frequent touchups)
results in having to remove more steel when I finally use the Edge Pro.
I now leave the Edge Pro set up so the exact angle is always assured.
The only minor hassle is that I have to tape the Sebenza's blade to prevent
scratching it every time I use the Edge Pro.
The upside is that it's a much faster process and I can get the edge screaming
sharp quickly, several times a week if need be.
 
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