80crv2 heat treat

T

Tkrocky

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Sep 6, 2013
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Hey guys, I have scoured a ton of threads on heat treating 80crv2, but I still have a couple questions.

My plan is to heat to 1525, hold for 15 minutes and then oil quench. Then I will temper at 400 2 times for 2 hours.
I will be making some 18" axes out of 1/4" stock, then tempering back the tang.

My questions are these: Does it matter if I use canola oil rather than parks 50? It would just be cheaper and I wouldn't have to wait for it. Also, would this steel benefit from cryo? According to another thread, Brad at peters heat treat heats it to 1575 for 30 minutes then uses cryo. A lot of people say that 1575 is too high and 30 minutes is too long, and I believe brad knows his stuff, but I know there is more than one way to skin a cat. It seems like if I am not pushing the aust temp limits then cryo may not be necessary? Lastly, should I put these in foil packets to avoid decarb? Thanks guys, hopefully this can be a place to consolidate info for 80crv2.


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The chrome increases hardenability. Because of this, my hunch is that canola will be fine.
 
Canola should work fine, but make sure you have several gallons of it in the tank. I would use 3-5 gallons.

400F will give you a Rc60 edge. That is pretty hard for an axe. I would temper at 425F for around Rc58, or even 450F for an Rc56.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Canola should work fine, but make sure you have several gallons of it in the tank. I would use 3-5 gallons.

400F will give you a Rc60 edge. That is pretty hard for an axe. I would temper at 425F for around Rc58, or even 450F for an Rc56.
Click to expand...

Duly noted on the amount of oil. I was figuring out I would need that with the amount of steel I need to harden. I had my last one done at 61, with tang tempered back, and it has been amazing. I gave it to my brother and he can do some serious chopping with it.


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Good, my suggestion was based on rough use. 80CrV is really tough, so it can be used at higher hardness than many other axe steels.
 
Canola will be fine for 1/4". 80CrV2 does allow you to push choppers, either in thinner geometry or hardness-I differential harden the stuff and have found even thin geometry to be very forgiving.
 
Hmm, I doing HT of 80CrV2 aka NCV1 like this
650*C 2h and cool with kiln (around 36h with my kiln) then austenize 15minutes in 840*C then quench in 170*C canola oil ( I have 30l tank ~8gal) .
Then I'm still able to straight this blade for some time ( aka rest of cooling between plates, and they are dead flat)
Tempering 2x 175*C.

Ps.: Ups... I need pay for subscription again xD
 
I picked up some 80CrV2 as well, but unfortunately I only have a rudimentaly propane forge to heat up the steel, not an oven. So I guess we'll see how it goes without the 15 minute austenizing period.
 
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