80crv2 vs o1 in a small hawk?

[Tin.Man]

Done so much searching, I was super set on s7 for this project, but I love 1084 and o1, seems like 80crv2 is better then I thought.

Talking 1/4” thick, 14-16” long full tang tomahawk used for woods use and hunting NOT going though cinderblocks and car hood nonsense.

Which steel would you pick for the above and why? Geometry and heat treat are both on point so we can hopefully skip those.

Appreciate the thoughts

 

[Juha Perttula]

I prefer 80CrV2. It is like 1084, but it generally gives better toughness.

 

[JAGKNIFE]

Done so much searching, I was super set on s7 for this project, but I love 1084 and o1, seems like 80crv2 is better then I thought.

Talking 1/4” thick, 14-16” long full tang tomahawk used for woods use and hunting NOT going though cinderblocks and car hood nonsense.

Which steel would you pick for the above and why? Geometry and heat treat are both on point so we can hopefully skip those.

Appreciate the thoughts

I am doing my hawks in 80CRV2 and or 8670

 

[hugofeynman]

Austempered O1 should be as tough or tougher than Martempered 80crv2 at same hardness. Martempered O1 at low hardness (56-58) should also be tough enough.

 

[jdm61]

I wouldn't call that a "small" hawk. Much of the discussion that I have seen would indicate that a higher toughness steel like 80CrV2, 8670, L6, etc would allow you to run the hardness up a bit compared to say 4140/4340 or 10xx as produced by some and still have adequate toughness.

 

[Tin.Man]

Jdm small as in 3.5-4” bit. Maybe closer to Viking sized one hand axes as that’s where I’m drawing heavily from for my design.