8670M/L6 Admiral????

[indian george]

Has anyone used this in their Damascus mix??????

 

[hardheart]

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396794&highlight=8670*

comments a bit mixed, but this was before the steel was properly identified

 

[indian george]

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396794&highlight=8670*

comments a bit mixed, but this was before the steel was properly identified

Thanks Bro :thumbup:

 

[Deweyknives]

I really wish I had seen this a few days ago as I just ordered some o-1 from them. Luckily it's only about 24 feet of stock. Has anyone had their o-1 tested? Precise prociedures are hard enough to develope without such a wide range of formulas. Does anyone have a source of 'guaranteed analysis' o-1`?

Thanks for showing that link,hardhart!

 

[Deweyknives]

OK, should have read the entire thread before questioning. Still like to know who is using their o-1 and are you happy with it? Ever have it analyzed?? They list enough of it so I assume it's pretty standard. Thanks!

Randy,Deweyknives

 

[Don Hanson III]

I have used it in damascus and it looked pretty bad. I passed my JS test with it though, treated like L6, 90 deg flex and came back almost straight with no edge crack.

 

[indian george]

I have used it in damascus and it looked pretty bad. I passed my JS test with it though, treated like L6, 90 deg flex and came back almost straight with no edge crack.

Don, what are you using instead ?????

 

[Phillip Patton]

I have used it in damascus and it looked pretty bad. I passed my JS test with it though, treated like L6, 90 deg flex and came back almost straight with no edge crack.

I wonder why it looked bad?

I mixed it with 10xx steels and got this:


http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i238/ppatton/knifepics/1149-3-1.jpg

 

[indian george]

I wonder why it looked bad?

I mixed it with 10xx steels and got this:


http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i238/ppatton/knifepics/1149-3-1.jpg

Damn that is nice. :thumbup:

 

[Don Hanson III]

I mixed it with 1084, 1095 and W2. Very little contast in my billets and a close look at the 8670 showed pits after a good etch, which made the finished blade look dirty, just nasty looking. Phillip, your's looks very nice :thumbup:

George, I use 15N20 from Kelly Couples and it looks and cuts very good. I also use a little 203E, it etches brighter and more silver than most anything, except pure nickel.

 

[indian george]

I mixed it with 1084, 1095 and W2. Very little contast in my billets and a close look at the 8670 showed pits after a good etch, which made the finished blade look dirty, just nasty looking. Phillip, your's looks very nice :thumbup:

George, I use 15N20 from Kelly Couples and it looks and cuts very good. I also use a little 203E, it etches brighter and more silver than most anything, except pure nickel.

Thanks Don:thumbup:
I still have around 5# of 15N20 that I got from Kelly Cullpper (SP??) and about the same of L6. The last billet I made with L6, nickel and the 1084 from Aldo Bruno came out with very nice contrast. I'll be doing the next one with the 15N20 and Aldo's 1084.

 

[Phillip Patton]

I read somewhere that you should use muriatic acid when using chromium steels, and ferric chloride when using nickel steels. Did you use muriatic to etch it?
I remember using ferric on O1 and 1095. It wasn't pretty. :barf:

 

[Don Hanson III]

I only use ferric and try to avoid chromium steels.