8670m/O1 mix

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Dec 6, 2004
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so whos done it and how does it etch
less you have some 3/16 L6 you want to sell :)

its a 2 parter as i am looking for good razor steel adn high end kitchen stuff
 
I know you want to make your own, but for those hard use jobs, have you considered Damasteel? It's stainless damascus.

Jason
 
Since it's considered an L6 "replacement" I'm assuming it would work and etch similarly.
 
I know you want to make your own, but for those hard use jobs, have you considered Damasteel? It's stainless damascus.

A lot of Butch's customers prefer carbon steels, especially for some kitchen stuff and razors. Not to mention, there's only so many patterns offered by Damasteel and there are times when a "different" pattern is desired.

As the "guy around the corner" from Butch who makes a bit of damascus, I'd say that it's not an issue of being able to do it here in my shop. I think that it's more driven by knowing that O1/L6 is a great combo and the fact that Admiral is pushing 8670M as an L6 replacement. After looking at the specs a (very) little bit, the concern is that the lower Ni content in 8670M might reduce the "brightness" of the etch. That said, L6 is getting harder to get, so.....

Delbert? Kevin? Either of you guys tried this combo?

-d
 
I tried it a few years ago and didn't like the look. Not enough nickel, it had fine pitting and a muddy look to it. Performance was fine though.

15N20 etches and looks much better.
 
Cliff Parker and I both bought some when Admiral started selling and calling it L6. A few months later I asked Cliff how he liked it, he said he gave it all away. I told him I sold mine :D
 
Since it's considered an L6 "replacement" I'm assuming it would work and etch similarly.

It doesn't...



DH III said:
I tried it a few years ago and didn't like the look. Not enough nickel, it had fine pitting and a muddy look to it. Performance was fine though.

15N20 etches and looks much better.

What he said. :D I've sworn off of 8670 for good.
 
well then that about kicks it then
im sure the "L6" replacement is fine to use for blades and stuff but not the look i am after on the dammy mix
i know i could do 15N20 and say 1084/95
all i really need is a high carbon contrast
i would go 1018 and ni but i dont want to have any warping problems on a san mi with a 52100 edge (single bevel knife)
 
That explains alot, thanx Deker. Butch 4340 - 4350 has between 1.8 - 2.0% nickle in it with only a few points shy on the carbon. alloyed with O1's .9 - 1.0% carbon it should even out to about .60 -.70% carbon overall. Its a common steel mostly used for gun barrells now a days.

Online metals sells rounds and the chemistry they post is
C = .37 =.43
Cr = .80
Fe = 96
Mn = .70
Ni = 1.83

Also for some cheap 200 series nickle, Bass Guitar strings are wrapped in several yards of nickle wire. You want the low E string and they can usually be bought seperatly from just about any reputable music store.

Jason
 
Thanks for the posts Don and Phil. I stand corrected.

My only experience was a bar given to me to try out, and it made a fine mono-steel blade.
Stacy
 
My first damascus was made with Admiral's 8670, it does not have enough nickel to show up in etching nicely, I still have some 8670, you want it?
It is one of the reasons I will not order from Admiral again, I was told it was L-6 when I ordered it

-Page
 
I use what Chuck Bybee was calling 1080+. "Cept I get mine from Simonds saw blades. .Gives a nice contrast. Of course, it's not "bought " steel so may be objectionable to some. But it spectrographs out to 1080 plus 2% Ni.
The dark in the picture is 1084.
 

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guess i have ot give the NJ steel baron a call on that L6 and then forge it down

least then i can better control the dark to light contrast that im looking for
 
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