9Cr13 Steel

C

Cold Kill

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I know that under the name designation, it should be *roughly* .9% carbon and *roughly* 13% chromium (this may be the wrong element), and I was wondering what commonly known steel this steel would perform like. I know proper HT 8Cr13 performs like AUS-8 (not the same, just similar). Any information would be helpful.

I should also note that the knife I am looking at is the Benchmade Pika (maybe the Mini-Pika). It seems to be the most affordable Benchmade I can find that is straight-edge.
 
The Chinese steels are similar to AUS-8 and 440C. 8Cr13Mov was actually a poorly made attempt to replicate 440C steel. 440C is defined by a range of carbon content, not a single specific composition or maker. The range of carbon content in 8Cr13Mov is lower than that of 440C, so tends to have wear resistance more equivalent to AUS-8. The range of 9Cr13Mov falls more within 440C's specs, so it performs similarly.
 
Tsujigiri said:
The Chinese steels are similar to AUS-8 and 440C. 8Cr13Mov was actually a poorly made attempt to replicate 440C steel. 440C is defined by a range of carbon content, not a single specific composition or maker. The range of carbon content in 8Cr13Mov is lower than that of 440C, so tends to have wear resistance more equivalent to AUS-8. The range of 9Cr13Mov falls more within 440C's specs, so it performs similarly.
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Couldn't have said it better myself. +1
 
AUS 8 is more comparable to the rare 440B chemically. I have a few pika's laying around, and I can't give a glowing review of the knife itself, but the 9Cr13 is actually not bad!! :thumbup:

If they could make it the "de facto budget steel", I would be very happy, and would buy lots more budget knives
 
My Byrd I had with the 8Cr13 was great (albeit a PITA to sharpen). So if I can get the Pika, the steel should be better, right?
 
More carbon means more carbides, which means better edge retention. It should be harder to sharpen, though. I know Benchmade tends to HT their steels soft, so maybe not. What are you using to sharpen? AUS-8 or similar shouldn't be a challenge to sharpen.
 
Cold Kill said:
My Byrd I had with the 8Cr13 was great (albeit a PITA to sharpen). So if I can get the Pika, the steel should be better, right?
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That has been my experience. Although if you thought 8Cr13MoV was hard to sharpen, 9Cr13 will be no better.

One thing that I have learned here on BF is that "better steel" is a loosey-goosey term
 
After seeing the hardness on the Pika, I am a little unsure. The better steel means nothing if it is nice and soft.
 
edge retention is only part of the equation. i prefer a softer, tougher steel than a harder steel personally, especially for hard use. I would rather an edge fold and be easy to resharpen in the field than chip and need hours to reprofile or repair. pick a steel based on what applications you plan on using the knife for. as a commercial fisherman i prefer a low maintenance steel that is less prone to corrosion and easier to field sharpen or repair than something that has better edge retention but is more prone to chipping and needs extra effort to resharpen.

I have used a Byrd rescue for almost 3 years working on towboats and barges and as a commercial lobsterman. I am currently using a Snap-on stockman with "440 stainless" blades. when it gets dull at work, I can just hit it on a coarse diamond stone and go right back to cutting. I do more cutting than the average knife user in a day and cut stuff that is tough on the edge of a knife. I've used everything from AUS-6 to S30V and found that I prefer a "lower end" steel.
 
Cold Kill said:
I know that under the name designation, it should be *roughly* .9% carbon and *roughly* 13% chromium (this may be the wrong element), and I was wondering what commonly known steel this steel would perform like. I know proper HT 8Cr13 performs like AUS-8 (not the same, just similar). Any information would be helpful.

I should also note that the knife I am looking at is the Benchmade Pika (maybe the Mini-Pika). It seems to be the most affordable Benchmade I can find that is straight-edge.
Click to expand...

I have a Benchmade Pika II with a blade in 9Cr13CoMoV. I have both used it and done side by side testing. It holds an edge better than 8Cr13MoV, but not quite as well as 440C if all the blades are about the same hardness, which I know that mine are.
 
Having just recently purchased a BM Pika, I can honstly say that I was pleasantly surprised by how scary sharp the blade could get.Believe it or not, even sharper than Aus 8. According to BM their 9Cr13 has a hardness of between 58 - 60,definitely not soft at all. Good Stuff.

Honestly,I can hardly wait for the HD 13900 Ti-Fender a titanium frame lock knife which has the same steel and with a street price around $70 - $80 to hit the streets.Talk about amazing value for the knife buying buck.
 
razorburn said:
Having just recently purchased a BM Pika, I can honstly say that I was pleasantly surprised by how scary sharp the blade could get.Believe it or not, even sharper than Aus 8. According to BM their 9Cr13 has a hardness of between 58 - 60,definitely not soft at all. Good Stuff.

Honestly,I can hardly wait for the HD 13900 Ti-Fender a titanium frame lock knife which has the same steel and with a street price around $70 - $80 to hit the streets.Talk about amazing value for the knife buying buck.
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I measured mine. It was a bit over 58.
 
guys, i am chinese.
The following are my views.

9Cr13 steel, it has several similare grades 9Cr13CoMoV or 9Cr13MoVCo, 9Cr13MoV... equals to Aus10.
Actually, the name is not very important.

8Cr14MoV or 8Cr13MoV, it equals to Aus8. HRC 57 - 58.

9Cr18MoV or 9Cr18Mo, equals to ASTM 440C and SUS440C.
By adding elements Mo and V, the property is better than 9Cr18 grade which also called 440C in anti corrosion and wear resistance.
HRC 58-60.

For 440B, we have 8Cr17, 8Cr17Mo and 8Cr17MoV grades.

440A, we have 7Cr17MoV and 7Cr17.
Like Taylor, they use 7Cr17MoV to produce folders.


In china, as a saying goes, steel grade is not very important.
The good performance is also related to its heat treatment.

Everybody who need other info, contact me.
Skype; paul_luhongxiang
 
440C knife steel said:
guys, i am chinese.
The following are my views.

9Cr13 steel, it has several similare grades 9Cr13CoMoV or 9Cr13MoVCo, 9Cr13MoV... equals to Aus10.
Actually, the name is not very important.

8Cr14MoV or 8Cr13MoV, it equals to Aus8. HRC 57 - 58.

9Cr18MoV or 9Cr18Mo, equals to ASTM 440C and SUS440C.
By adding elements Mo and V, the property is better than 9Cr18 grade which also called 440C in anti corrosion and wear resistance.
HRC 58-60.

For 440B, we have 8Cr17, 8Cr17Mo and 8Cr17MoV grades.

440A, we have 7Cr17MoV and 7Cr17.
Like Taylor, they use 7Cr17MoV to produce folders.


In china, as a saying goes, steel grade is not very important.
The good performance is also related to its heat treatment.

Everybody who need other info, contact me.
Skype; paul_luhongxiang
Click to expand...

That was actually explained very well, thank you. Also, I agree with your comment about steels not being as important as the heat treatment. I know some guys on here would crucifie me for saying this but I have some 420HC knives with a 58 Rockwell Harndess that I would put up against some of these new so called Super Steels any day!
 
This is an old thread but I'll post in it anyways.

"What is Aus10? Is it better than Aus8?"

I don't use better or worse in situations like this. They are designed with differences for a reason and that doesn't make them better or worse. You as a user can say "better suited for my needs" but that doesn't mean better steels. Aus 10 is a knife steel in the 440C class of wear resistance. It has a different composition that fixes 440C's problems. Namely it's not tough at the edge at the usual knife hardness levels. 440C has relatively poor edge stability. 10A remedies that somewhat by dropping the chrome from 18% down to 13% while keeping the carbon percentage the same. It is not a powder steel so it isn't all that expensive which is another advantage in using these steels for making cutlery where cost matters ( on a budget). Disadvantages in comparison to 440C? Less corrosion resistance . This is of course all generalized and one 440c knife can be made to be superior as a knife to an Aus 10 knife, and visa versa. The heat treat, final hardness, build quality and of course geometry always will have larger impact than the initial differences in the steels.

"Is Aus10 similar to D2?"

Nope. That is yet a completely different steel. It is a higher carbon lower chrome tool and die steel not considered stainless. Better or worse still doesn't enter into it. It is designed for different applications but also can make excellent knives like the above mentioned stainless steels. I prefer it for knives over the two above because it does what I like better. It runs at higher hardness's and is tougher while still giving that nice toothy edges these steels are known for. Better yet ( for me)? Cruwear, PD#1, Z wear, etc. For other people they may be absolutely unsuited. We are all different in our needs and uses fortunately.

Joe
 
Thanks for the explanation, helpful guiding information!
I got a Chinese knife from AX vendor Jufule, the knife is advertised as "S30V marked, real D2", but when I asked explicitly about blade steel the vendor messaged back "9Cr13MoV" and I will have to take his word. At least he didn't claim that it is "real D2" as advertised.
I haven't tried to sharpen it yet. I wouldn't mind "reviewing" the knife on this forum but the Jufule model copies many design elements from a Spyderco model (incl the labeling on the blade), and afaik it's not allowed here to review\present\discuss Spyderco imitations or rip-offs.
 
"Thanks for the explanation, helpful guiding information!
I got a Chinese knife from AX vendor Jufule, the knife is advertised as "S30V marked, real D2", but when I asked explicitly about blade steel the vendor messaged back "9Cr13MoV" and I will have to take his word. At least he didn't claim that it is "real D2" as advertised.
I haven't tried to sharpen it yet. I wouldn't mind "reviewing" the knife on this forum but the Jufule model copies many design elements from a Spyderco model (incl the labeling on the blade), and afaik it's not allowed here to review\present\discuss Spyderco imitations or rip-offs."

You have given the reason we don't like dealing with knife makers who do business with no scruples or morals. You have a knife you have no way of knowing what it's made of or if it was made properly. If it is great what is performing well? If it sucks you have no way of knowing what to avoid in the future aside from that particular model knife . I like knowing what I have and who made it. I also will not ever pay for something that steals ideas or the good name of another maker. I couldn't imagine putting my health in the hands of a known counterfeiter/thief. Doing it the right way is a lot easier in the long run.

Joe
 
And 9C13 is a very good steel when done properly.10 A is great too. I have several in that steel. I have a Spyderco and Benchmade made of this ( 9C) steel. It sharpens well and performs how one would expect which is good.
 
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