A Bad Day on the Mountain... (long)

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Jan 7, 2003
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... is better than a good day in the office!

After every trip I take I usually write up a report for my own records. I thought you guys might enjoy reading this one. Mac

Capanema Trip

We left a little later than we wanted to on Thursday morning (Oct 6) due to Emerson’s work related problems. He is a contractor and had to make sure his crew knew what was expected of them while he was gone. Our plan was to stay on top of Battatal (Capanema) and maybe explore some of the valley beyond the next day.

We started hiking at about 11:00. Emerson was having a tough time of it initially. He carries a few extra kilos. I was feeling the lack of cardiovascular exercise myself but adjusted pretty well.

We refilled our canteens at the creek and again at the first spring on the way up the slope. This is the end of dry season and the rains haven’t started yet. The springs on the way up normally hold some water but there were very few seeps visible on the rocks and no running water from mid slope up.

By 3:30 we were on top, elevation 6,500 feet. The wind was blowing about 20 – 25 mph from the backside of the mountain. We bypassed the “Castle”, the actual top of the mountain, not visible from the bottom. The Castle is a large formation about 100 meters long, 50 meters wide and about 25 meters high. It is full of large angular boulders and would be a good place to seek shelter. Our objective at this point was water.

Between the two of us we arrived on top with little more than a liter. That would have been enough for us to spend the night but not the following day. It also wouldn’t allow us to cook, or even eat. We had to find a source of water and a sheltered place to set up camp.

The shelter was fairly easy to find. Beyond the Castle, headed north there is a large flat field bordered by rock formations that look like “The Great Wall” on the west and “The Submarine” on the east. Since the wind was blowing hard from the east the leeward side of the Submarine made a natural windbreak. The area is relatively flat and covered with grass. We deposited our packs in the lee of the Sub and headed north to another part of the peak to search for a spring that I had used before.

The far side of the next rise to the north had a good supply of flowing water every time I had been on top before so it was a natural place to start searching. After about an hour of searching we were getting discouraged. The mountain appeared bone dry. The only exception was the bromeliads. These grow in abundance on the peak and collect rain/dew/condensation from the thick fog that normally clings to the crest. Each one contains about 20-60ml of water of variable quality.

I had a 60 ml syringe and a 1-meter length of tubing. Emerson mentioned the fact that if we kept searching for water we wouldn’t have enough time to collect enough water from the plants and set up camp before dark. I cut him a short piece of tube with my neck knife and left him to collect water while I continued to search.

(NOTE TO SELF: Everyone carries a tube and syringe in the future.)

I set off on a pointless search for flowing water. I did find a patch of wet sand but probing down into it with my BK-7 revealed that it wasn’t saturated enough to bother digging.

I walked about 3 km searching the west side of the ridge where most of the seeps seem to break the surface. This got to be too dangerous as the slope turns into a vertical drop down over the edge and I didn’t feel like dying. After getting into a second sticky situation I reasoned I would rather be thirsty for the night than a quadriplegic for life. Discretion was the better part of valor.

I found Emerson again, still sucking water out of plants. He had collected almost a full 1-liter platypus bag. Between the two of us we finished the bag. It took about an hour to collect a liter of water. The water quality was poor. The bottoms of the plants contain a great deal of dead plant matter and the water has mosquito larvae swimming in it. It would have to be filtered and treated.

With one liter of water to our credit we headed back to set up camp. Emerson found a good windbreak at the south end of the submarine. About “midship” there is a large rock with a flat space alongside and I settled on it as my shelter location. Out of the wind it was actually quite nice.

Our shelters consisted of US Army ponchos, bivy sacks, and tropical weight bags. I also had a poncho liner along. Emerson brought a warm coat to sleep in. I took time to filter and treat the plant water while there was still light. It filtered up pretty well yielding a full canteen of treated water, enough to spend the night and we could make more in the morning from the same source. As far as I was concerned our water problem was solved (60 ml Syringe, Canteen, PVC filter, Potable Aqua Plus).

The field between the “Sub” and the “Great Wall” is filled with grasses of various types so we set about cutting and ripping up grass for our beds. As I worked my way south in the field moving from one bunch of grass to the next I suddenly discovered a stagnant pool of water about three meters long, two meters wide and about 30 cm deep. It was down in a sinkhole rimmed by tall grass. I called Emerson over and we had a good laugh. We hadn’t spotted the pool because it was in an unlikely place and we had passed by on the far side of this field checking out the “Sub” as a possible location for a campsite.

We looked over the pool with Emerson’s mini-maglight. The water was of very poor quality, filled with bugs and such, sort of dark but transparent. It would have to be treated heavily but would be every bit as good as the stuff we were sucking out of the plants and much faster to collect. Our water problem was solved. I filled two of the 2-liter Platypus bags at the pool. I like to use a full two liter bags as a pillow. Emerson seemed resistant to the idea for some unknown reason.

I made a 5cm thick grass mat next to my rock and covered it with my Thermorest pad. The sky was clear and it seemed highly unlikely that we would get even fog, let alone rain.

By about 9:00 PM it was starting to get pretty cold. I didn’t have a thermometer but I would have guessed about 50 degrees, daytime temps were in the 80’s. The wind was blowing at a steady 25 mph from the east. In the shelter of the rocks we only felt occasional gusts.

The moon was a sliver and the sky was totally clear when I went to bed. Just in case, I left my poncho out of my pack next to my head but I fully expected to wake up in dry conditions.

About 1:30 I found out how wrong I could be. I woke up with a few raindrops hitting my face. The air had turned white. The fog was so thick you couldn’t see anything. The glow of a mini-maglight up near Emerson (25 meters away) told me he was getting set up for a wet night too.

Expecting a little drizzle I sat up in the bivy sack and pulled the poncho over my head. I don’t like to zip the hood of the bivy shut, as it gets stuffy. Anyway the drizzle was just a minor inconvenience that the poncho hood could handle. I put my bush hat on to hold the hood away from my face and went back to sleep.

That lasted about an hour when it started to rain for real. Then it started to pour down rain like only Brazil can manage. It was like trying to sleep in a car wash! At least now our water problems were definitively over. I have to give them credit, the $25 Guide Gear Bivy sack does a pretty good job if you are smart enough to zip it shut and protect the face screen from direct rain. I was not smart enough though and when it started to rain in abundance I was already committed to using the poncho like I had been. To remove the poncho at this point would have soaked me good by the time I got the bivy shut like it is designed to be.

Later the next day Emerson showed me his solution. He had started out the night with his bivy zipped shut. He liked the “bug free” sleeping idea. When it had started to drizzle he pulled the poncho over him and breathed through a hole made by the hood. He stayed dry all night.

The heavy rain lasted about an hour and then abruptly stopped like someone hit the “off” switch. By then I was so tired I just took advantage of the quiet and went to sleep. I woke up shortly after sunrise when Emerson walked up to me. He had been up for about a half hour. A small trickle of water had entered my bivy and my right arm and shoulder were wet but it had not been bad enough to wake me up.

The field of grass in front of camp had turned into a small swamp from the rain. The pool at the far end of the field was now about 50 cm full and there was a trickle of clean water flowing down a rock at the top end. The water was clear and cold with a slight amber color but no debris, mud, or insects floating in it.

Continued...
 
The water in my 2-liter platypus bag pillow was quite an aquarium. It had about 20 live mosquito larvae and five or six black water beetles swimming in it.

We dumped them and refilled from the clean flowing water. I even dumped our plant water, after tasting it (earthy iodine), because the good stuff was that much better. In short order we had seven liters of treated water between us so we were pretty well set. After breakfast of strawberry/chocolate instant oatmeal, coffee, dried bananas, peanut brittle, and a long drink of water I refilled the canteens. For cooking I brought the army canteens, cups, and stove sleeves and egg carton/paraffin/sawdust fuel. These worked amazingly well if you kept them out of the wind. One of them will boil a full canteen cup of water.

The mountain was covered in thick blowing fog with about 10-30 meters of variable visibility. We decided to pack up camp and leave it where it was to go explore the Castle for a more sheltered location. The Castle was only about 200 meters to the south. This was really our only option as the fog was so thick that there was nothing to see no matter how far you walked. The view was pretty much wet grass and rocks a stone’s toss in any direction.

The Castle is an amazing formation. There are dozens of places for an individual to shelter. Some of them would have to have the brush chopped out and the ground leveled but a single person could easily get out of the wind and rain. After more than an hour of crawling over and through the rocks we were pretty tired and wet so we found a good place to sit and ended getting into a long discussion about life, God, women, and stuff. The fog showed no signs of lifting but the wind had died down a bit.

When it came time to leave and head back to camp I started one way and Emerson the other. I asked him if he knew which way he was headed and he admitted that he didn’t, he was just guessing. I also had to confess that I wasn’t 100% sure either. The more I tried to reason it out the less confidence I had. We were “confused” in the fog due to the dozens of turns we had taken in, over, and through the Castle searching for shelter.

I had left camp confident that we could just turn around and come back to it. Hey, it was only 200 meters down the ridge. The ridge runs due north and south and it’s only about 100 meters wide at the most. No big deal. In fact resolving the problem would have meant no more than a few hundred meters of walking. I had been so confident of my ability to know which way to go that I had left my Recta DP-2 in camp.

I pulled my backup compass out of my Altoids tin PSK in the pouch of the BK-7. The needle clearly showed the north south line of the ridge. The town of Ouro Preto was in the south and Belo Horizonte in the north and we had camped to the north of the castle. I was the one who had guessed wrong.

Confidence and laziness feed upon each other. I was confident of my ability to simply walk back to camp and too lazy to start off following the compass. We weren’t really going anywhere; 200 – 300 meters max so it wasn’t that big of a deal, right? The real danger would have been if we decided to leave the ridge. I could have very well descended into the wrong valley. This is how stories of people getting really lost start out.

Lesson learned - There is no such thing as confident dead reckoning in thick fog. Always start each venture beyond the range of visibility with a compass bearing recorded in a notebook. Even a few glances at the compass along the way would have kept me from getting turned around in this situation. I just wasn’t planning on getting lost; I wasn’t going far and didn’t think it was a big deal. Overconfidence and laziness do not mix well with fog. If we had been on flat ground we would have been in real trouble without the back-up compass. In fog prone areas real discipline would have me using the compass and pace counter even in clear weather to give me a reference for when the air turns white, that’s the smart money bet. Will I ever be that disciplined?

Around noon the fog suddenly turned to a golden glow. It was the most otherworldly light I’ve ever been in. This lasted for a few minutes as the wind shredded the remains of the fog and the blue sky above started to appear. In a matter of minutes the fog had blown off the top of the mountain and we were in bright sunshine under a clear blue sky.

Not knowing how long this would last I unpacked my pack and spread everything out on the rocks, bivy sack, tropical bag, poncho liner, poncho, ziggy pillow, fleece sweatshirt, BDU jacket. It looked like I’d stepped on a landmine. In about an hour everything was bone dry.

While my things were drying out I checked our water trickle. Its flow was already about half what it had been in the morning. I topped off our water supply. I always carry more containers than what I will need. I had a canteen, 2 two-liter and a 1-liter platypus bag. Emerson also had 2 two-liter bags and a canteen. I also packed in 2 five-liter emergency gasoline bags. These take up very little room in a pack and make great bags for a water cache.

If we had planned to stay on the mountain for another day, I would have filled all the containers and the five-liter bags and made a 10-liter cache. As it was we had more than enough clean water with the stagnant pool and bromeliads for backup. To treat more water I would have had to use my KMnO4 as my supply of potable aqua was dwindling.

We spent the day wandering around the summit taking pictures and scanning the far valley with the monocular. We decided that the best way to explore this valley was to enter it from the far end somehow. There is no direct route into the valley down the reverse slope. You have to hook around to the head of the valley and go down via the far slope. This trip would require at least three nights in the bush to reach the center of the valley and get back out.

There is a strong cell phone signal on top of the mountain but I’m positive that the valley floor would be a dead space. The entire ring of mountains on all sides is uninhabited so this valley is a communications free area. From the valley floor the nearest help would be the mining company at the far end about 10 km away. The remains of a jeep road are still visible in places so maybe a 4x4 could get into the valley.

Later in the afternoon we cut more grass for our beds. My bed was a virtual mattress of dry grass about 10 cm thick. We both rigged up our ponchos over the head areas of our bivy sacks in preparation for another downpour. This time we weren’t going to let the clear sky fool us.

I went to bed around 9:00 again under bright stars. There was a gusty wind blowing that made my poncho flap a lot. This was getting on my nerves. I would fall asleep and then a snap of the poncho would wake me up at some point. About 2:30 I woke up again and the sky was still bright stars from one end to the other. I untied the flapping corner of my poncho and threw it up over the rock so it would be quiet. I fell instantly back to sleep with no more flapping. A drop of water on my nose woke me up an hour later. TOTAL WHITEOUT! The fog was absolute. I figured it out. The clouds form at a lower elevation and suddenly rise up over the mountain. It can go from clear to total fog in minutes. I retied the poncho corner, tighter this time and went back to sleep. The expected downpour never came, only a slight drizzle from the fog.

The fog was just as thick as the previous morning but without the rain things were damp but not soaked. We packed up, ate a quick breakfast. The fog lifted early and by the time we had gone over the side of the mountain we were in sunshine. We arrived back at the car at 12:00 noon.

After rainy season ends in April we plan to repeat the trip hiking all the way to the monastery at Caraça. This trip provided valuable experience for that adventure. This was the first time I had spent the night on top of this mountain and I feel that the gear and techniques we used would allow us to hike the entire ridge. Time to hit the gym. Mac
 
Thank you for relating this experience.

When I backpacked in the U.S. west, I carried a sponge as well as aquarium tubing. Although you planned otherwise, you never knew when you would have to try to harvest odds and ends of water/dew.
 
Excellent read. Good point on DR navigation and getting turned around. Very easy to get lost.
 
Thanks for the post Pict. Do you think that you might ever post some pics of your water filter? It is something that I am interested in making, but I need a visual guide to do so (works better for me, just the way I am wired).

Again, great post

Mike
 
Mike,

I can't post pictures (yet). If you send me an e-mail (via my public profile) I will return a photo for you. Mac
 
Once you get Giardia once, you will never drink anything without proper filtering again. Filtering with a sponge, or a shirt, or anything less than a tiny micron ceramic element or chemical treatment, is an eventual Giardia case. Running water does not at all guarantee that the river does not get its source from a beaver lake.

Fun story!
 
TikTock said:
Once you get Giardia once, you will never drink anything without proper filtering again. Filtering with a sponge, or a shirt, or anything less than a tiny micron ceramic element or chemical treatment, is an eventual Giardia case. Running water does not at all guarantee that the river does not get its source from a beaver lake.

Fun story!

All too true. Areas once safe are not safe any more. Filter, treat, or risk getting the Super Runs (compelete with severe cramping).
 
The PVC filter I use removes a great deal of "crud" from the water and imporves clarity quite a bit. I make no claims that the water that comes out the other end is biologically safe in and of itself. I treat all water with heavy doses of iodine after filtering. I have been using this system for a few years now and have never had a case of the runs. The filter is just to improve the water quality as much as possible before treatment with the iodine.

I have a PUR Explorer that does a great job but it is heavy and the replacement filters are expensive.

My comment about the running water was just in terms of its general condition, it was much "cleaner" overall than the stagnant pond and plant water. I had no illusions that it was safe without chemical treatment. It was hard initially to get Emerson to take treating the water seriously. I really had to nag him a bit about it.

I personally haven't had giardia yet but I have cared for kids (not my own) who have had it and I know firsthand how nasty it can be. Mac
 
Factual but interesting . It told me a lot of things . It also encouraged me to get out in the field more and hone my own skills . Thanks for sharing .
 
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