A basic jig question

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Sep 20, 2015
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I am making a grinding jig. I want to make a kitchen knife. It calls for a 20 degree angle.

Should I cut the wooden jig angle at 10 degrees or 20 degrees.

Thanks for any information.

Jay
 
Am I the only one confused by a grinding jig. Is it a jig to grind the primary edge bevel if so it seams like more trouble then it's worth.
 
I am making a grinding jig. I want to make a kitchen knife. It calls for a 20 degree angle.

Should I cut the wooden jig angle at 10 degrees or 20 degrees.

Thanks for any information.

Jay

Your question is not clear. Twenty degrees is indicative of a [sharpening angle] the cutting edge, when discussing kitchen knives. What are you grinding?
 
Am I the only one confused by a grinding jig. Is it a jig to grind the primary edge bevel if so it seams like more trouble then it's worth.

You may not be the only one confused, but many have figured it out because I ship thousands of Bubble Jigs across the globe. If you're looking for consistency when making the same blade many times a grinding fixture makes a lot of sense.

There are many ways to arrive at the goal, more than one for sure. if we all approached this the same way there would not be enough diversity and diversity is whats needed if we want to explore and find new and interesting methods, new and interesting knives.

Fred
 
tell us the thickness of the stock, and how tall the grind line will be, it will be easier to give an angle estimate.
 
It is the grinding angle. I will end up with 20degree Sharping angle. What grinding angle should I start with?
Thanks Jay
 
Still no blade thickness and how wide is the blade?
That will help someone to help you. Have you read the stickies above? And why not complete your registration like where do you live? Be friendly.
Frank
 
Stating that you want to end up with a 20° inclusive(?) angle is fine.

But not letting us know what else you are doing makes it hard for us to help you. It would be similar to me stating that I would like help with climbing Mt. Everest and I know I am going to summit the peak, but I need help with the rest.
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Answer a few questions,
-What tools do you have, will this be ground with a file, 2x72 belt sander or something in between?
-What material are you using (include dimensions)?
-Are you planning on having a "V" grind or a Chisel grind?
 
I am sorry about not answering the questions correctly. I updated my profile.
I am using AEB-L .125 2.5 wide.
I am using a 2 x 72 grinder with a v grind.
My blade for a kitchen paring knife is 8 inches long and 5/8 wide. The blade itself will be 4 inches long the rest is for the handle.

Again I will try to give more details in the future. Thanks for the advice
Jay
 
I am one who finds a new maker using a jig to grind a bevel as silly and useless. You have to LEARN how to grind a bevel. If you don't want to learn how to do it, and want a jig or machine to do it for you .... just buy a pre-made blade. It takes time and practice to di it right. Building filing and grinding jigs is sort of like learning to write by only typing on a keyboard. It may teach you spelling, punctuation, and grammar ... but it won't help a bit when you pick up a pencil and realize you have no idea how to write the alphabet. ( This is a real problem starting to happen today)

Fred's Bubble jig isn't a jig to grind an angle for you, it is a guide to keep a steady angle. It will greatly aid you in learning how to grind. It will help with sharpening, making clips, and shortening the learning curve on angular grinding tasks. I have heard from others that using a Bubble Jig took many months off the time to learn how to grind a clean and smooth bevel.


People who have learned how to make and shape a knife will come up with jigs and such to ease the grinding or make repeated grinds more consistent, but they spent years learning those skills. Some of those people still use a bubble jig to get clean grinds when doing things free-hand.



In answer to you angle question - The actual bevel angle is insignificant. It is whatever angle forms when you grind/file the bevel from spine to edge. It will be in the 3° range for most kitchen knives. For a 2" tall blade in .125" steel, the total angle at the edge is 3.582°. To calculate it and set a jig, you will need accuracy of a hundredth of a degree or more. Even that angle will change as you approach the tip. Solution - just grind/file the edge to get a full flat grind from spine to edge.
 
^what Stacy said. 100%. A jig is there to make life easier for the skilled user, not (hopefully) to prevent the user from developing skill. If you learn to freehand your grinds, and then work with a jig I think you'll see what we mean.
 
i agree with stacy. my jig experience: i tried to grind knives for years on a craftsman 4x36 free hand. none were of any good quality. then i got a KMG grinder, and built some jigs. although i was thrilled i was getting consistant angles, i noticed when trying to fix or even out somthing, it held you back and made it more difficult, or impossible. even using jigs with the screw on the back edge to adjust the angle would foul things up. if you tweak that screw, and fix your bevel, you need to hope that when you flip the knife over to do the other side, that it matches up. ( meaning how close the bevel it to the spine, and the edge thickness). even a tiny burr or misalignment can screw up the game. lets say you just finished 36 grit, and switch to 80. if there is a burr or if the knife is not in the exact same spot when you flip it on the jig, you will have a slightly different bevel, and have to do the entire blade in the newly set bevel angle. even one tiny piece of metal dust between your jig face and tang when you clamp it will change the alignment. very fustrating. after a few months of that, i still was not happy. so what the hell, why not try the bubble jig, its not expensive, and it made sense watching the instructional videos. it worked like a charm the first time i tried it. i felt like i had been saved lol. then on the second knife, i noticed when i put the blade on the workrest, and slid it up to the belt real close but not touching, i would glance over at the bubble level and noticed it was almost exactly in the middle, which meant i was learning muscle memory. after doing passes, your mind/body memorizes where it needs to be held. my blades have really improved, they take less time, and making adjustments is easy so both sides of the knife look the same. now i am at the point where i do 36 grit with the bubble jig, then remove it and do all the rest freehand. once the bevel is established, its easy to feel that it is flat against the belt. i would suggest buying one. if you are in the middle of a grind, and notice you are coming to the spine too fast versus the edge, just take the magnetic level off, loosen it slightly, adjust it and go back to it. that way knowing what angle to start with is not that important. if you get one, a few tips- the magnet is really strong. make sure there there is no dust between the magnet and the tang holder when you attach it. the arm that holds the blade should be tucked tight against your waist like when you are buffing, and lock your wrist. sorry for the long story, but i wanted to give you all my thoughts on it. good luck.
 
I am relatively new but I don't totally stink.
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I will agree 100% with Stacy. The bubble jig helped me immensely when I was learning. So I started off on a 2 X 42 craftsman grinder like many. Using the bubble jig took months off of the learning curve I'm sure. I never really used a rest and I'm kind of glad that I did it the hard way because now I can freehand grind without a second thought. And I don't often use the bubble jig anymore although on occasion I do when wet grinding to begin the sharpening process. But I'm glad that I bought it. I know that trollsky (for example)uses a jig but like Stacey said he could also not use a jig and grind an excellent blade as well. Best thing is to mangle steel (that doesn't stop) burn fingers and grind off fingernails and develop the skill IMO.

Preemptively saying that if you use a jig or a work rest it does not mean you don't have skill.
 
Fred also has a chart of blade angle grinds available with his Bubble Jig.

If you're going to make a jig make it out of steel. Leave the wood for the carpenters and termites.
 
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