a better oil quenchant.

LX_Emergency

LX_Emergency

Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
3,215
Up until now I've been quenching in simple Sunflower oil. While this has worked well enough so far. I'd like to up my game a little and buy some high grade quench oil.

Americans are always talking about Park #50....but I can't seem to find the stuff.
Any tips?
 
There's GOT to be a source for something similar that's much closer for you, seeing as you're in the Netherlands. Are there any other makers in your area that might be able to suggest options? I can't feature a five gallon bucket of oil shipped to you from the US being very cost effective, but what the hell do I know?:D

Another consideration would be to see if there are any professional heat treating companies near you, and ask if they could either source some for you, or even sell you some.
 
Matthew Gregory said:
There's GOT to be a source for something similar that's much closer for you, seeing as you're in the Netherlands. Are there any other makers in your area that might be able to suggest options? I can't feature a five gallon bucket of oil shipped to you from the US being very cost effective, but what the hell do I know?:D

Another consideration would be to see if there are any professional heat treating companies near you, and ask if they could either source some for you, or even sell you some.
Click to expand...

That's a good suggestion. So far most makers I've seen around me are of the peanut/ Sunflower/Motor oil or one I've seen that suggested Diesel and Brake fluid.
I'll start a discussion on one of our local forums though. Was just wondering if one of the international members here might know.
i4Marc said:
http://maximoil.com

I didn't see it specifically listed on their site but this is where most people get it. Just call them and ask.
Click to expand...
I suspect the shipping might be a little high across the atlantic.
 
If you are using some of the deeper hardening steels, mineral oil is rather effective.
Stay away from the automotive-use liquids.
 
I thought Canola Oil was supposed to be about the best around other than thru commercial quench oils?
 
I'm not sure what the final consensus was/is, but there was a thread around here somewhere on "homemade Parks#50" if I recall correctly. If anything, maybe it could bridge the gab between the two options?
 
You could try Hougton international, they make quench oils that are rated similarly to the Parks 50 and AAA.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
I'm not sure what the final consensus was/is, but there was a thread around here somewhere on "homemade Parks#50" if I recall correctly. If anything, maybe it could bridge the gab between the two options?
Click to expand...
Can't seem to find that one. Would love a link if you know how to find it.
TStilwell said:
You could try Hougton international, they make quench oils that are rated similarly to the Parks 50 and AAA.
Click to expand...
Looks like they have an operation in Germany. I'll maybe see if I can reach out to them.
Ken H> said:
I thought Canola Oil was supposed to be about the best around other than thru commercial quench oils?
Click to expand...
That's what I've been reading as well. I'll check into that.
Karl B. Andersen said:
If you are using some of the deeper hardening steels, mineral oil is rather effective.
Stay away from the automotive-use liquids.
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm not going to do the automotive liquids. I'll check out Mineral oil as well. Looks to be a slower quenchant?
 
I have been very happy with the results of using pre-warmed (130 degrees Fahrenheit) canola for quenching simple carbon steels.
 
I recommend reading this:

http://www.sv-jme.eu/scripts/downlo...ad/2010/02/7_2009_165_Kobasko_zl_p131_142.pdf

The main difference from commercial quenchants and canola oil seems to be canola cools faster at the early stages (due to no vapor phase) and too fast under the high 500F (300C).

It seems if you want the best similar performance with Canola to commerial for high alloy steels, pull out at under 500F and let air cool the rest of the way.

On the other hand vegetable oils also oxidize and that ruins the quench capabilities so you need to refresh the oil more often to keep the same parameters.

Does anyone know the cooling curve of Parks 50 or AAA?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top