A bottle opener I designed.

I think I saw that on a Klingon one time! Extremely cool design.

DancesWithKnives
 
g10 scales would be awesome on these.

lol i have an idea! do the mule style, with no scale so we can mod it ourselves.
 
Might want to make those corners a little more "pocket friendly". The tab lifter is a good idea. Plenty of room for other functions.
 
Now that I consider your excellent "other functions" observation, one version could be made large enough to use as a kubaton. That would be the Klingon Tactical Can Opener and I'd buy one!

DancesWithKnives
 
btboone said:
If you increase the radii at the inside tang, they can be more easily CNC milled, and the cost could go down. There are a lot of hungry machinists out there looking for work. It can be waterjet cut or lasered as is.
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Any reason why they could not be stamped Bruce? I'm thinking high chromium, low carbon stainless for material.

Two hours of finishing time is insane....should be closer to 20 minutes....this requires tumbling, or more easily, finish on a Scotchbrite belt, and polishing of scales on a buffer.....otd cost should be less than $20.00 retail, wholesale at $10.00, costs around $4.00.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
They can be stamped, although it will make for a very rough edge on a part that thick. Milling will be a clean edge and should shorten the hand working time. I would think 20 minutes to be a reasonable finishing time as well unless that includes doing something to the wood, which might take more time. I used to make titanium bike cogs, and I could do a mirror finish on one in about 5 minutes.
 
Don't forget greatlakeswaterjet on the forum. He does great work and is very happy to help out forum members. Looks like a great design for waterjet.

Awesome work. You could easily market a baseline version for about $30 and then do customs in exotic materials and such.
 
Another thing to think about: the write up talks about eco friendly. Ebony certainly isn't, but maybe using wood from recycled pallets, or gym floors or something would be a good marketing advantage.
 
Is there any way to conveniently integrate a tab lifter for those times when you want to open a beverage can but are too lazy to take off your gloves?

DancesWithKnives
 
quattrokid73 said:
Yeah a contracted production would be better off.

I can get the parts fabricated for around $12 a unit now with about 2 hours of finishing time by hand for each one.

I imagine the cost can be brought under $10 per unit if done in large quantity by a manufacturer.

What you see here is water jet cut stainless steel and laser cut wood. Both are hand finished and fitted. All my design.
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I'd gladly pay $20/ea for a couple. Especially if you can get some G-10 on there. :D It reminds me of the pocket tools Peter Atwood does. Innovative and simple.
 
What about a high carbon steel version for the traditionalists? Also stall mat rubber material would also make a cool handle material.
 
Josh K said:
I'd gladly pay $20/ea for a couple. Especially if you can get some G-10 on there. :D It reminds me of the pocket tools Peter Atwood does. Innovative and simple.
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+1, Fancy metal is fine and great but I would be fine with a nicely heat treated tool steel.
 
orrey45 said:
+1, Fancy metal is fine and great but I would be fine with a nicely heat treated tool steel.
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Atwood does make some great little trinkets, but he has this strange obsession with using S30V or Ti for just about everything. Pricey coolness. :thumbup: I'd be fine with 01 or 1095. Even get some 420JS in there. It's not like it'd be cutting anything.
 
I'd like to see one with G-10 on a D2 slab. Also stall matt rubber is pretty good choice.
 
Josh K said:
Atwood does make some great little trinkets, but he has this strange obsession with using S30V or Ti for just about everything. Pricey coolness. :thumbup: I'd be fine with 01 or 1095. Even get some 420JS in there. It's not like it'd be cutting anything.
Click to expand...

There was a very smart, highly unbalanced PhD named Cliff Stamp that suggested to Peter Atwood quite some time ago that his tools would be better suited to production in 420J2....and Mr. Atwood declined to change materials.....Owning perhaps 6 of his fine products, I have come to the conclusion that Cliff was correct....tool steel would rust too much, being that these are primarily keychain/sweaty pocket carry tools.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Kohai999 said:
There was a very smart, highly unbalanced PhD named Cliff Stamp that suggested to Peter Atwood quite some time ago that his tools would be better suited to production in 420J2....and Mr. Atwood declined to change materials.....Owning perhaps 6 of his fine products, I have come to the conclusion that Cliff was correct....tool steel would rust too much, being that these are primarily keychain/sweaty pocket carry tools.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
Click to expand...

cliff was correct? do you mean they should be 420 for its cost/stainless properties?

tool steels probably aren't right for the pocket tools, but ti doesn't rust. have you gotten rust on the ones you have in s30v?
 
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