A Brief Study On Swedges

Thanks - very informative thread. I like the looks of swedge grounds like that found on the Case Select series; however, they make sharpening on my beloved Lansky jig almost impossible, so I have learned to avoid them ...
 
Just wanted to mention that this was originally told to the OP, Kerry ( KnifeHead KnifeHead ) by Tony Bose. I just wanted to make sure the origin of this post was known.

Thanks Kerry ( KnifeHead KnifeHead ) again for such an informative and well illustrated thread on swedges.
 
T. Erdelyi said:
Just wanted to mention that this was originally told to the OP, Kerry ( KnifeHead KnifeHead ) by Tony Bose. I just wanted to make sure the origin of this post was known.

Thanks Kerry ( KnifeHead KnifeHead ) again for such an informative and well illustrated thread on swedges.
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Yer welcome! :)
 
There were rumors of me taking the dirt nap. :rolleyes:
 
Mike Robuck said:
I heard you were a zombie now (with a nice jeep.)
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Yes...and by the way, I just bought 3 of those books on Amazon which have an excellent chapter on swedges, just sayin'. ;)
 
KnifeHead said:
A correct swedge will end before it gets to the tip of the blade. Otherwise, blade sharpening over time could potentially involve the swedge resulting in an ugly blade.
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I understand the reasoning here, and realize many folks out there want this. I have never agreed though, and even as a kid I modified my factory knives to make the swedge go all the way to the very tip. Mainly because of another nice reason for the swedge- to make the tip much sharper and pointier for piercing and poking. I even sharpened it (just last few millimeters so it was still protected when folded) so it was essentially double edged right at the end.

When the main edge gets worn enough to make the swedge look funny, that also means the edge/tip area has gotten too thick, so I'd regrind the blade, or at least the tip area on my stones to restore it. Maybe not everyone would do that, but it's important to me.
 
Swedge Master Kerry :D:cool::thumbsup:

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Brilliant tutorial, Kerry. I learned so much. I was searching the online Oxford English Dictionaries for the definition of a swedge ("Scottish informal: A fight or brawl. Origin: Perhaps related to dialect swag, ‘sway heavily’"). I should have checked Bladeforums first.

Many thanks,

Mark H.
 
Very cool thread worth a bump.

Interestingly, I have a Case TB teardrop with a swedge on the pen blade that goes all the way to the tip...
 
Thanks for this, I've always wondered about the origins of the swedge. Personally not a fan of them and was always curious as to their creation :thumbsup:
 
JoKr said:
what is the width at the ends of the knife, the bolsters?
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The scales/bolsters are assembled on a liner that is .155" in stock thickness and then reduced during finishing. The overall thickness of the knife, depending on stock thicknesses used, will end up being somewhere around .700". Take note that the inner cut liners on either side of the master (center) blade are thicker than the scale liners. This is to allow room for the crinked blades on either side of the master blade when closed. Cut liners and swedges make this all work.
 
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