A couple of questions

B

Brekfast

Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
57
Hi guys,

Back again with some questions.

I have ordered some 01 steel, from a local supplier.

2 slabs, one 1/16" thick, 2" wide 38" long
one 3/32 thick, 2" wide 38" long

I did not want to order something thick but I think 1/16 is too thin and made a mistake ordering it. I wonder what size stock you guys order generally for a medium sized fixed blade knife.

I also noticed that the 1/16 thick slab is not completly straight, will that straighten out during the heat treat (the curve in it is ever so slight).

I figured I'd use some simple wood for handle material. Is there sometihng I could get from a non-knife supply specialist shop like Rona or Home Depot
for that ?

While at the handles, why would one put a liner between the handle and the thong of the knife ? Is it purely cosmetic or has practical purposes as well ?

Is it better to use bolts for the handles or a pin ? I would think a bolt would be sturdier and would allow handle disassembly, but again maybe that never happens and so it is not a consideration.

and last, I was thinking of using 120 grit paper at first on my disk grinder. I read it that 120 grit seems to be a good general grit. Woud that be ok or should I go for something finer for handle flattening ?

Thank you in advance.

Henrik

Montreal
 
Not answering all of your questions, I use 1/8" stock for most of my hunters. A lot of my art folders are around 3/32". You could probably use it on a smaller hunter. I reserve the 1/16" stock for paring knives, and fillet knives. The 1/16" is a lot more suceptible to warping during ht. I usually just use a premade blade for these jobs unless the buyer specifies different.
As for handle fasteners, I use cutler rivets. They have a nice smooth head when finished and hold the handle very well. I never liked the bolts through a round type nut, because the there is always a gap between the bolt and the nut.
I never have tried Home Depot for handle material. There seems to be plenty of good materials through the knife suppliers.
I usually start with a 60 grit belt to remove excess metal. I usually do most of the work with 120. A used 220 belt is good for removing deep scratches and giving some shine to the blade. Micron belts are good for removing leftover scratches. From here I recommend you must experiment to get results that please you.
Hope this helps, Dave.
 
Brekfast said:
Hi guys,

2 slabs, one 1/16" thick, 2" wide 38" long

I also noticed that the 1/16 thick slab is not completly straight, will that straighten out during the heat treat (the curve in it is ever so slight).
Thank you in advance.
Henrik
Montreal
Click to expand...

Slab? or steel?
 
Dan,

Sorry for the incorrect terminology. They are steel bars.

Dave and MSCantrell,

Thank you for the input !

Henrik
 
just didn't want you putting wood slabs in a heat treat:eek: ;)

to answer you question nothing normally straightens out during the H/T
but you can straighten it first and stress relieve it and then do your grinding and then stress relieve it again, as said, that is thin stuff to play with..
if it warps in the heat treat on you namely in the quench process,
when you quench your O1 steel, as soon as you can pull it out of the quench and handle it with leather gloves you can do some strengthening at that time if you need to, but don't wait to long to do it.. or you'll hear a tink..
and that is not a good sound.. good luck ..
 
Brekfast said:
How would I go about straithening it Dan ?

Thanks.

Henrik
Click to expand...

it would depend on how bad it is
for swiping bends just use a padded vise and work it back, if it has a twist in it
use a big cresant wrench and twist it back.
for sharper bends make three rounded blocks out of wood
you can use a 1" hardwood dowel and split it length ways

use a hand press or a vise and fashion two of the blocks on one side of the jaw and the other in the middle of the other one adjusting the space between the two will give you a focal point for sharper bends..
 
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