a couple of woods knives

S

siguy

Joined
Aug 26, 2006
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i made these up over the past couple of weeks, geared mainly towards woods bums like meself and many of the folks on here.

just thought i would share...input on design is always appreciated. what sorts of things look like they would work well for you/wouln't work well for you kind of thing...

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and one in progress...just needs handle slabs or a cordwrap, depending on what i feel like doing...
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Great work bro, I especially like the para-cord wrapped model !!!!:thumbup:
 
thanks guys. i rather like the paracord type handles too...lightweight and trim like a skeletonized handle, but with some beef to fill out the hand a bit
 
I like the second one alot. If you put a little more of a guard on it, it would be ideal.
 
Simon,

Nice work buddy. I can say without a shadow of a doubt, Simon knows how to put a wicked edge on a knife. He put a hair popping, not shaving, edge on my Fox River at the CT gathering. He's meticulous and I'm sure these knives will echo all the praise others and I have given him on this thread.

Good job!

I like that first puuko styled knife. Very simplistic and utilitarian.
 
I like the 2nd one the most. Very functional blade shape and no-nonsense size.
 
great looking stuff man...:thumbup: i really like the looks of that second one...:D what are the specs on that guy...
 
Thumbs up for the second one as well... That knife seems to ask to be used.. How big is the blade???

Sasha
 
for specs...
the pukko style one:
handle:4.5 inches long, maple, nearly full length hidden tang with hollow stainless pin
blade:1/8" thick, 3.75" long, 3/4" wide
steel:O1
grind: saber flat with small convex bevel

the middle one (i call it a woods backup/edc utility):
handle:4.125" long, full tang, maple scales, brass tube pins
blade:1/8" thick, 3.25" long, 1" wide
steel:O1
grind:full convex

the wide blade cordwrapped one:
handle: ~4.5" long, full tang, double layer paracord wrap
blade:1/8" thick, 4.25" long (measuring cutting edge), 1.75" wide
steel:O1
grind: convex scandi/convex saber grind

so it seems that the second one is the favorite...interesting. it does beg to be used, and i think i will make more of this pattern in the future...it works very well in the hand. i like the drop point/spear point style blades, they seem to really work well for me.
 
Those blades looks great. :thumbup:

One point of advice on the handles. When you drill the holes for the pins be sure to have another bit of wood under the scales. This will prevent tear out. Clamp the scales onto some scrap wood. This way the drill bit goes through as if it is one solid piece and you won't get chipping when the bit exits the scale.
 
Well it's a tossup for me between number one and number two. They look Great!

ilbruche said:
Those blades looks great. :thumbup:

One point of advice on the handles. When you drill the holes for the pins be sure to have another bit of wood under the scales. This will prevent tear out. Clamp the scales onto some scrap wood. This way the drill bit goes through as if it is one solid piece and you won't get chipping when the bit exits the scale.
Click to expand...

Good advice by ilbruche which I wanted to touch on. Another option is to drill your holes before final shaping that way you file past the chipping. But, like ilbruche said, you should still drill on top of a scrap piece of wood.

One other thing on the Puukko style though. I don't know if it is just the picture, but it looks like you could round it off a little more to give it a nice oval/egg cross section. The thing I like most about hidden tangs is the ability to make a very comfortable oval shaped handle with no flat sides or square edges.

Other than that though, great job, I like them!
 
excellent advice on drilling the scales...i hadn't thought of that.

i left the handle a little sqaurish, but it is still very comfortable. i like that sort of blocky feel to keep the knife firmly oriented in my hand. i will consider rounding out handles in the future though, thanks.

here is a little one i finished up today (ground to profile and drilled holes the other day, ground bevels and heat treated today).

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