A DIY blade for Morseth Fans

DaddyDett said:
Petrified Dino snot??? :eek:


DaddyDett
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One of these days I'll have to tell y'all all about my Aunt Myrtle.;) :D
Aunt Myrtle was a big ol' Arkansas Cherokee gal and was my great aunt, my grandmother's sister.
Aunt Myrtle always went barefoot when it was halfway warm. We used to laugh and joke that Aunt Myrtle's feet were so hard that she could strike sparks on the flintrocks in the strawberry fields down in Arkansas.:thumbup:
Aunt Myrtle was very well endowed in the chest, so much in fact that she could throw one over her shoulder and nurse a kid while digging taters, or - picking strawberries.
Another thing was that Aunt Myrtle never wore any underwear, don't think she could find any big enough.:eek:
One of these days I'll tell y'all a story about that when I can figure out how to do it without grossing anyone out or offending anyone, it may not be able to be done.:rolleyes: ;) :D
Anyway my Aunt Myrtle was one helluva good ol' gal and I loved her dearly.
I miss all of the generations that have gone before me.:(
 
I got one of the Morseth blades and the Artic Birch "wood." That was all. Honest. Sure.

A.G. certainly did sell Morseth kits. I got one of the last ones in the 1980's.

After Harry Morseth died, and before A.G. bought the brand (in 1971 0r 72?), the Morseth company (grandson [Steve?] was making the knives) was having financial problems. That could explain an undelivered order of blades.
 
DaddyDett said:
No offense intended, Yvsa

DaddyDett
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None taken DD. Aunt Myrtle was the talk of the town anyway and would've just laughed at the thought.;) :D
 
i highly recommend stopping by shop talk and reading some fixed blade tutorials in the sticky at the top. I would strongly advise against using epoxy alone to hold your blades in your handles. Even when you see no pins on custom knives, they are often hidden or carfully disguised. You do not want to swing that knife only to have the blade fly out of the handle into something or someone. These should be drilled in the tang and pinned by at least one pin. Epoxy should not be the five minute type. Woods should be stabilized or fully dried. Some I am sure will say they didnt use any epoxy and its held fine, but for someone who doesnt make knives all the time, that is a very dangerous chance to take. Just my .02....
 
On the other paw, many khukuri blades are secured solely by Nepali "epoxy," and Mike Stewart (BArk River Knife and Tool) says pins in handles are for decoration since the epoxy holds the handle on the blade. You pays your $$ and you takes your choice.
 
I dunno...that kinda goes in the face of how most knives are made, but like you said, its your body and youre safety and your $$....its just my .02.

You have a larger object being glued into a smaller hole, there is nothing retaining it other than the epoxy bond. If that bond gives, you are in trouble. With a pin, that bond cannot give since you'd need to shear the pin first.
 
I'm kinda riding the line as far as the pin issue goes. A well placed single mosaic pin on the handle would look sharp, and it would add a failsafe...function and beauty, all in one step. I like that idea.

I'm also gonna have to use pins on my Ulu handles. Those ones are a bit intimidating...:o

That being said, I've used my khuks HARD...and never had a problem. If the power generated by fourteen inches or so of weight forward 3/8 inch thick steel doesn't create enough shock, energy, and momentum to cause a failure, it's hard to imagine it becoming an issue with a 4-5'' blade that's less than half that thickness.

I'm also trying to figure out how I'd wanna pin a layered handle, for example if I use stacked Birch bark, leather, bone spacers, etc. Also wondering how far back on the tang I can set a pin without taking away structural integrity.

In any case, I very much appreciate the suggestion to check out the knifemakers area. Lotta good reading there and helpful tips. Always nice to see a few pics and suggestions to emphasize my status as a neophyte green horn blade butcher.
 
Stacked handles use a threaded tang with a pommel that tightens what is between the guard and pommel.

Im not saying epoxy will certainly fail, Im just saying that unless you know HOW to do it right, theres a much bigger chance (creating a weeping hole to avoid air pockets, using high quality slow set epoxy, etc)

I just forsaw someone using 5 minute epoxy with no pins and a lot of bubbles and that bowie blade leaving the handle at 30pmh in a hard chop and figured I'd say something
 
Don't disregard what TicTock has to say here. Remember though that if you are making a very small pukko style knife it wouldn't be necessary except as decoration. I do agree also that five minute epoxy is weaker than a good hard setting epoxy. I think, though, that for a pukko blade it wouldn't matter. After I anneal the tang of my knives I drill two holes near the end of the tang and tangle a very fine piece of stainless steel wire in there. Kinda acts like straw in adobe. It isn't going to fail no way. I don't think thats necessary though, I'm just a nut.:cool:
 
My order just came in from Ragweed!! YEEHAW!!! The Morseth blades are awesome, and the Ulu's have far exceeded even my high expectations.

They are so far removed from the tourist trap grocery store Ulus up here it's unreal! rasor sharp points and edge too. uhmmm....errr...as a matter of fact one of the corners nipped me while I was putting them back into thier plastic bags.:o


It's funny...just an hour ago I was mercilessly teasing Jessie (My pitbull) by putting his chew toys in a place where he could clearly see them, but just couldn't quite reach them. He spent twenty minutes barking, whining, wagging his tail and running circles. I laughed mercilessly and figured that by the time he does get 'em he's gonna think they're the best darn chew toys on the face of the earth.

Now enter my new shipment of blades I'm looking at as I type....

I've gotta clean the house, make a dump run, pick the kid up from school, make dinner, take the kid to a scout meeting, come home tonight, practice some Judo techniques with my son, then wake up first thing in the morning, set up for a Judo tournament, spend the day at the Tourney, take the kid out to his victory dinner....the list goes on and on...I'm not gonna really have the time to play with my new blades until about the middle of next week!

Jessie the Pitbull is currently sitting at my feet with his favorite chew toy between his paws, wearing an expression that looks alot like a smug grin.....
 
My Mora 2000 and Frost Craftsman Triflex didn't make it today, durn.
Hopefully tomorrow, so I don't have to wait til Tuesday.
Patience, people you push around in wheelchairs.
 
My box arrived from Sanborn, NY. The Morseth blade IS impressive - almost 5". It does look like something Harry would have used. Just a hair under 3/16" thick

Also got a Helle puukko - just under 1/8" thick x 3 5/8". While Helle made this puukko with a blind tang and no pins, Harry screwed his knives together back in the day.
 
aproy1101 said:
After I anneal the tang of my knives I drill two holes near the end of the tang and tangle a very fine piece of stainless steel wire in there. Kinda acts like straw in adobe. It isn't going to fail no way. I don't think thats necessary though, I'm just a nut.:cool:
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I usually file a few notches in the tang, for the same reason.
 
I'm with Tick Tock here. Also, I like the extra working time I get with regular high-strength - slow set epoxy. The most important factor, however is absolute cleanliness of the surfaces. Any oil, from fingers or otherwise - will weaken the joint. Mostly, epoxy just fills up the voids and makes a tighter fit of tang to handle. I wouldn't depend on it for holding in anything bigger than a karda blade. A cross pin or two or three, or a peened or otherwise fastened tang is a must for chopping. I think.
 
ok guys here is a quick question..

1...If you didnt have any guard material handy, can you mount the wood without it?? or does it server a purpose??

2...what size puukko and how do you pronounce puukko??


Daddy,
Send some of that masquite this way bro...That is some good looking wood!
 
Leatherface said:
ok guys here is a quick question..
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LOL, you should be a lawyer -- "a question" :D

1...If you didnt have any guard material handy, can you mount the wood without it?? or does it server a purpose??

2...what size puukko and [3] how do you pronounce puukko??


Daddy,
Send some of that masquite this way bro...That is some good looking wood!
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1. sure.
2. ??? :confused:
3. "poo' koh"
 
:D :D :D
Yea my poor sainted mother always said I should be a preacher or a lawyer/used car salesman!;)

I am thinking 3 1/2in blade for the puukko or getting that camping puukko from NC...I just hate the sheath in the pic

Thanks for that I was pretty much pronouncing it right


Daddy...MESQUITE is what i meant...lol
 
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