A fast & wicked pair of sisters

SBranson said:
With the discussion of sori, I asked about the water because I wondered if the sori was quench induced when I thought the hamon didn't look like it came from water.
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I thought that's where you were heading - didn't see it until you said it out loud! Nope, I cheated with the curve on these. No stress-induced sori, here. I wonder if I should've avoided using that term, but does it apply to the effect or the cause, do you think?

SBranson said:
I didn't mean to sidetrack this thread.
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You didn't! In fact, I'd love to talk process with you some time - as I mentioned, I love your work.


Joey, started work on that fighter from last year (!) again. Can't tell you how much I despise making guards... knife almost found itself in the trash yesterday after I screwed up yet another piece of stainless with a simple file stroke!
 
Thanks. I imagine that the term is fine for both and I'm sure it's me that placed the method in the definition because of it's origin. Japanese smith tweak the sori before and after the quench so I'm sure it's not relegated only to the natural result of the quench.
My assumption, my mistake.
 
Very nice Matt! Are these forged blades? Looks to me like you are striding right along!
Mace
 
No forging here, my friend. With my forge area still in disarray from the big storm last year, I can't do any hammer swinging. I wouldn't do it on stock this thin, anyway, I don't think... more likely to cause geometry issues than not, with my hammer skills!
 
I keep coming back to this thread to look at the pics. Just awesome work Matt, but I gotta tell you these pics are making their little cousin a bit jealous!

Just out of curiosity how did you polish these out?
 
Wulf said:
Just out of curiosity how did you polish these out?
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I bring the entire blade to 400 grit using alternating angles to make sure I don't miss a scratch. Then, from 400 to 2000 grit with the blade. I buff the entire blade with matchless compound on a sewn buff. I buff against the grit pattern I formed with the sanding. I want to eliminate any scratches not finer than the buffing compound, if I can. Also, this is a great way to find the 800 grit scratch I totally overlooked!
Then I return to the blade with 2000 grit once again and make a uniform scratch pattern along the blade. I etch in ferric chloride (pretty hot etch, by most standards - certainly no longer than 30 seconds), neutralize the entire thing with baking soda and water (I use the baking soda to kind of scrub some of the oxides off while I'm wiping, too). Depending on my mood, I may remove the oxides with Flitz or Mother's Mag wheel polish (probably used the most), and a bit of mineral oil (I just mix a dab of each on the blade and wipe with a paper towel or makeup pad) until it starts to look like something.
Usually have to etch a couple times, and sometimes I've needed to remove the oxides with fresh 2000 grit paper. Occasionally that has the effect of really 'whitening' the activity and ashi. Other times it does me no good at all, and I need to etch again.
From here, I usually proceed to 1500 grit loose compound and mineral oil, working with my thumb tip in small areas back and forth with the blade, focusing on the areas of greatest activity. Sometimes this needs to be followed with a bit of Flitz, sometimes it's done!

Time consuming, but I find that it's one of the most enjoyable aspects of the process for me. Guess I'm lucky in that respect, as most seem to despise this part.
 
Cool, thanks for walking me through your process.

One more quick question - regarding the make-up pads that you use, do you go out and buy a specific style or brand or do you just use the ones Spangler left in your bathroom?
 
Wulf said:
Cool, thanks for walking me through your process.

One more quick question - regarding the make-up pads that you use, do you go out and buy a specific style or brand or do you just use the ones Spangler left in your bathroom?
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Bwahahahahahahahahahaha! Spangler dissin! :D
 
Those are AWESOME Matt! Both of them look great and like they would feel even better in hand!

Peter
 
Thanks, Peter!

I've gotten a bunch of emails asking about how much these things weigh, and finally got around to weighing one. The koa handled piece weighs in at an almost perfect 7 ounces. To place this into perspective, the ubiquitous Ka-Bar (offering the same length of blade) weighs 11 ounces, and a Spyderco Military folder with a 4" blade and G10 scales weighs 4.2 ounces. Like I said, deceptively light - and FAST!

Derrick, the makeup pads are actually Wheeler's idea - I can't decide if I like how they work, or not. Seems as though a small section of paper towel is just as good, ends up requiring less compound, and doesn't fuzz out like the makeup pad does.

...of course, paper towels don't apply blush with anywhere near the same evenness, which is why I'm sure Nicky uses them.
 
If they fuzz out ya got the wrong ones Matthew!!! :p ;)

Actually "ironing board cloth" works even better (a new upgrade since the polishing thread) and about $4 for a sq yard. :)
 
Well, aside from the makeup pad issue <G>, they are damn fine looking blades!!!

The hamon on the one is just beautiful crazy, would love to see it in person.

Matt, I am glad you have taken so to the Japanese style knife. Having made them for years myself, I can completely understand your enthusiasm about how great they feel in the hand and how exciting they are to hold. You just want to go cut something!!!

Perhaps soon you will take on the tanto point? Beefy stock? it's the other extreme from these, and I would love to see the pair of "fast light slicer" and "robust tanto armor piercer".

regardless of what styles you make, you are doing awesome work. Obviously, you are having fun, which is the most important thing to progress, IMO.
 
RJ Martin said:
Perhaps soon you will take on the tanto point? Beefy stock? it's the other extreme from these, and I would love to see the pair of "fast light slicer" and "robust tanto armor piercer"..
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I like the way R.J. thinks. :cool:

Just a quick note to say that the wicked sister with the wicked hamon arrived yesterday, and Matt did an exceptionally fine job on this piece. Just a terrific hamon - as the pics suggest - and excellent finish throughout. The curved blade really gives this piece a sense of motion, which is doubly reinforced by the super-fast feel in hand. With the right sheath, this would make for a supremely comfortable ultra-light carry, with full-sized steel available at the ready. Killer piece.

Roger
 
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