A few forge questions

A

andybill

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Dec 29, 2008
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I just built (with a lot of help from Indian George, thanks George!) a forced air propane forge, and I'm afraid I may have been running it way too hot while getting it set up. The Inswool is lined with ITC-100, but it looks like the coating and the wool have melted a bit. And some patches on the inside look like they have fibers that are exposed, so I'm considering re-lining it. As it is right now there's just one layer of ITC-100 and I'm a bit nervous that it may not be protecting me from those INswool fibers.

Also, the part where the burner is welded onto the forge body, a piece of steel pipe, is getting so hot that it glows red, even when the forge is running below welding temps.

So here are my questions: I'd like to re-line with a few coats of Satanite, can I apply it to the ITC-100 thats already there? And if I coat the inside of the burner where it enters the forge, would that help keep it from heating up too bad?

This forge will do some welding but mostly be used for HTing, bringing it up to heat and then turning it off or down to get a consistent slow heat.
What do you think?
Thanks
 
I have recoated the inside several times and it works fine. I do not weld my inlet pipe so I can adjust the distance of the inlet pipe and not overheat the whole mess. I am not sure what you are getting at by coating the inside of the burner. (see above) Moving the pipe in or out can control the heat in the forge and how it heats the end of the pipe. I have a bracket that holds the inlet pipe in place and I can slide it in or out. If the end is getting too hot and your forge is still too cool move the pipe out a bit. WHen you find the sweet spot cinch it down. Good luck
 
Several things pop up:
1) The forge needs to be lined with 1/4" to 1/2" of satanite. After that is cured, it is coated with ITC-100, and cured again.
2) Sounds like you are running the burner too high. Turn down the gas pressure and turn down the air by installing a gate valve or a choke plate on the blower.
3) As Chuck said, move the burner flare in and out to find the spot where it runs efficiently. The welded pipe is the sleeve that the burner slides in and out through. It should have three bolts that are used to lock the burner in place. Once the right spot is found, packing any gap between the sleeve and the burner with Kaowool or refractory cement will stop the blow-by that is causing the flame/heat to try and go out between the two tubes.
 
Thanks for the replies guys
I've got a gate valve on the blower, and a needle valve on the gas line right before it enters the burner. Playing with those two has gotten me into good operating temps, but I'm still having trouble with the burner pipe heating up. My burner is attached directly to the welded pipe (the one thats heating up) with a reducer, not slid in and then secured with screws. But it's easily taken apart, so I could try that.
I'll try relining and messing with the burner some more and maybe get some pics up.
Small issues aside, I was able to HT two larger blades last night that have been on the bench waiting on this forge, so I'd call it a success!
Thanks again.
 
The burner should be sliding in the tube, not connected to it. You are burning the flame in the pipe, not in the chamber.
 
Ahh, ok that makes sense. I'll try that.
As for the satanite, this forge is about 8in wide and 18in long. I'd also like to reline my other forge while I'm at it. Is 5lbs of satanite enough for a good thick coating on these, or do I need more?
 
you will need more at least 20 lbs. It is relatively cheap, and is really useful. You will need to have some on hand in case you damage your lining, and you can coat your blades with it to prevent de-carb, or make awesome hammons. I just finished my forge, and i used 10lbs its 24" long and 5" in diameter. I could probably have used more too.
 
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