How To A few lockback kit questions

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Jul 27, 2017
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I am just starting this hobby so I have a lot of questions. I am starting with a few Rough Rider kits and, once I have gotten good with those, move on to some French regional knife kits.

1) In what order do you assemble them? Do you attach the scales first and then sand away the wood, parts of pins sticking out, and polish the metal? Or sand the plates and bolsters clean first?

2) Is there an easy way to get the spring and blade in there? I am doing okay pinning the spring and then pulling it back while I squeeze in the blade but there must be a smarter way, right?

3) I have noticed that brass pins are used to secure the scales and some silver-colored metal is used to secure the spring and as the pivot for the blade. What is the silver-colored metal and why is it used there? Is it stronger so it is more suited for holding up under the tension and stress?

4) Is there an industry standard for the pins? There are no shops near me that carry this stuff so I cannot test-fit in the store before buying. If there is a standard then I can try ordering that diameter.

5) The springs on some of my knives are very stiff. Is there a way to loosen it a little after the knife has been completed and without taking it apart? Is this usually an issue with the thickness of the spring metal? Or with the pins being hammered in too far?

6) Will Gorilla Glue gel work as well as epoxy for attaching the scales to the plates?

7) What is a cheap and efficient way to sand the scales into shape? I am using sandpaper on a flat surface and wrapping it around an ancient, dull metal file and sanding by hand. I like the control and feel it gives me but after two days I actually have blisters on my thumb. The tiny diamond files I have are too small to be efficient for this and the belt sanders I have seen cost $2,000+. Are there cheaper ones that still work well? And what kinds of files are the right width to be useful for reducing the scales to shape?

Thanks for all of your patience with my beginner's questions.
 
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Knifekits has some videos on how to assemble them on youtube. Check them out.
 
The videos Adam suggested are a good idea.

Semi-finish te scales and side pieces. You will want them smooth and at about 400 grit pre-assembly.

Making a holding/assembly jig plate out of a piece of aluminum (or even hardwood) will make assembly easier. Drill holes in the jig to match the holes in the frame. Drill one end hole, and insert a long pin through the side assembly and in that hole into the jig plate. Drill the other end hole and install a long pin. Finally, drill the backspacer pivot hole and slip in a pin. Use longer pins than the kit provided ( pin stock is cheap). You want the pins to go at least 1/2" in the jig if it is aluminum, and 1" if it is wood. You want to drill the holes on a well aligned drill press. You may have a friend who has one, or make a visit to a machine shop and ask them to drill the three holes for you. The holes need to be just a tad larger than the pin stock ... just enough oversize to allow the pins to be inserted and removed snugly. Make sure to sand/file a short taper to the ends of the pins a bit to ease insertion.

To assemble the knife, put the pins through one side assembly ( with the scales attached and semi-finished) and into the jig all the way. Next, slip on the end spacer/spring assembly, back spacer, and then the blade. You can push the backspacer with a piece of wood or screwdriver to compress the spring and allow the tang of the blade to slip in place. Slip on the other side/scale. You can now test the blade for opening and closing.

To lighten the pressure of the spring, you grind it thinner on the inside (facing the closed blade) just a little bit. Leave the end where it is in the end spacer and the end that presses against the backspring alone, just thin the area between those places. Reassemble on the jig and test. Go slow, as it is easy to make it too weak.
 
Thanks, folks!

Can you recommend the right kind of common pins (and maybe a supplier)? What material, other than brass?

Also, is there any way to loosen up the resistance after the knife is completed? I have a Maki Laguiole that is great but so stiff I cannot pull out the corkscrew without using another tool.
 
Knifekits.com has everything you will need. Pins come in different sizes, so you will want pin stock in the size of the kits you buy. Nickle silver, brass, and stainless steel are the most common.

 
Also, is there any way to loosen up the resistance after the knife is completed
This is called "Break-In". A drop of light oil in the joint and open and close the blade 40-50 times, you don't have to close it all the way just work the oil into and around the pivot joint....Like breaking in New Boots you got to loosen them up with use.
 
Thanks, I have been doing that and noticing slight improvement. I think the resistance of the corkscrew opening is a bigger deal than just breaking it in and oiling the joint. If I could, I would Dremel the spine/spring a little thinner but I am afraid I would destroy the knife by mistake. I have never done this before and I am at a loss. This is why I am asking for everyone's ideas. :)
 
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I got a caliper and measured the last little pin fragment for that incomplete kit. They're 3/32". There were no rods at Michael's or at Lowe's so I ordered some. That strikes off question #4.

I feel this desperate sense of missing out if I don't work on one of these knives at least a little every day or two...!
 
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