A few More Questions

[Josh Dabney]

Thanks to all who replied to my last thread !
After realizing that I got the wrong paint stirrers, small ones cupped too bad to be of any use, (Sorry Will I should've re-read that post) I decided to go for it with with my O1. What great time I was having working with this steel ! Of course I did make all of the rookie mistakes but took everyones advice and ditched the tool rest and went totally freehand after profiling. Tool rest just seemed to be in the way anyhow. This first grinding session was a great learning experience for me and I damn near got a pretty decent blade blank on the first attempt. Aside from getting the edge too thin, running the grind a bit deep on the spine, putting several nice gouges in the side and top of the blade, and running my plunges too far towards the handle for the profile of the blade shes about perfect. ( I really don't mind if someone wants to use that statment for their sig line, LOL) I did however start my first blade with a design large enough to re-profile into a paring knife just in case this sort thing happened so all is not lost and I think tonight I'll end up with usable blade. Now for the questions-

1. For stock removal method should I be grinding the distal taper before the bevels or develop it while grinding the bevels? I ground it first and ended up very thin on the belly of the blade.

2. My O1 turned some pretty colors and seemed to surface rust right out of the quench bucket. Is this normal? and I dont need to worry about how hot I get it before HT right?

3. I've used three different belts and they all seem to very slightly wobble side to side maybe 1/16" . Hoping this is normal, Klingspor SC belts.

 

[Patrice Lemée]

Josh as far as the belts are concerned 1/16 is reasonable, for me anyway. Some belts are worst than others. I've heard that using a spray bottle with water a little on the back side of the belt while it runs may help but never tried it.

Patrice

 

[PIndelicato]

(Newbie attempt at some answers based upon my limited experience)

1) I think this will develop naturally as the grind line works its way up the spine (if I understand your question)

2) I've seen some O-1 turn blue in my limited grinding experience. I now dunk more frequently and I've stopped seeing this occur. I also have seen almost instant rust out of the water at the coarser grits, but it seems to diminish greatly at higher grits.

3) The Norton SY965 ceramic belts I have in 60 grit probably wobble 1/4", which makes getting a decent plunge challenging to say the least. The Trizact 'Gator' belts I've used in 240x and 400x seem to run almost perfectly.

Now let's see those pics of your handiwork!

 

[Josh Dabney]

Here are a couple of pics of my first attempt and game plan for salvage into a paring knife. There is a little heat discoloration but the other brown colors are a little vinegar, mustard and lemonjuice experiment. I chose the original pattern because I thought it would turn nicely into the paring knife which certainly wouldn't need to be 1/8" thick

 

[PIndelicato]

Josh,

That looks similar to, but much better, than my first attempts. I ground well into the spine and created a step there. I disguised it somewhat by grinding the flats back down if you're interested in trying that, but of course you end up with some unintended taper that way and thinner ricasso than you started with.

 

[Josh Dabney]

Yes, I've got the step also but I was planning on tapering the tang anyway so I'll thin out the ricasso a bit and taper the tang provided I don't mess up the resulting paring blade before this all takes place

 

[Lynn]

In my quench bucket I put a little dish soap and baking soda. The soap is to make the chips sink (reduces the surface tension) and the soda will retard the rust for a little while. Don't use too much of ether. It'll make your hands as soft as a baby's bottom. Not good for metal working.
Just what I do,
Lynn

 

[Josh Dabney]

Thanks for the tip Lynn. West Palm not far away, Hmmm. Perhaps a meet and greet sometime when I'm in the area due to my sister-in-law living in Loxahatchee. I probably go there at least a dozen times a year not to mention spending a week in October in Singer Island. Let me know what you think?

 

[Will Leavitt]

You could flatten the tang and bring the top of the plunge down a bit.

There's usually some wobble with the coarser belts, 1/16 seems reasonable.

I don't worry about colors BEFORE heat treat, after is a totally different story.