A few questions from a beginner

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Jun 16, 2006
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Hello, I am going to be making my first knife but I do have a few questions before I get completely started.
First off, How is working with micarta and what should my safety precautions be. I will be using files and sand paper. For the heat treat, what is the best fire setup? A grill with charcoal? Which oil should I use? Finally, what is the best place to find this 5160 steel. I know you can get it at axle and spring shops but I want to know if there is a better and perhaps easier place to buy the steel. Also, I'm worried I won't be able to find thin enough steel.

Thanks for being patient. I did read the newbies guide on here and it was very helpful but these are a few questions still lingering.
 
You will want to wear a respirator with micarta because of inhaling the particulates. Since you won't get it too hot, I don't suppose you have to worry about any release.

Depending on the size of your blade I would suggest using a 1-brick forge (search the forums here for info). The BBQ will be good for annealing your steel, but not particularly good for heat treating. If you have access to a kiln, you could also heat treat using that.

If you're stock removing (which I think you are), leaf springs will be tough to work with. Admiral Steel and Kelly Cupples both sell 5160. You might also try out a simple carbon steel like 1080, 1084 or 1095. These are cheaper than 5160 barstock and make fine knives. Plus you'll have more sizes to choose from.
 
Thanks a lot for the info AcridSaint. I am going to do the cheapo's way suggested on the FAQ; drilling holes around my design and hacksawing it away followed by filing to shape. I'll look into the 1 brick forge, thanks for that suggestion. I believe I've heard many good things from 1095. Maybe I'll try that steel out. On the other hand, it's a little pricey compared to the 1080, 1084, or 5160. O1 is pretty cheap on the marksforge site. I dont know how it is to work with that steel though.

Also, what oil for the quench? Standard Motor Oil? Mineral Oil?(it's cheap) And how much?
 
Thanks a lot for the info AcridSaint. I am going to do the cheapo's way suggested on the FAQ; drilling holes around my design and hacksawing it away followed by filing to shape.
...
Also, what oil for the quench? Standard Motor Oil? Mineral Oil?(it's cheap) And how much?

You know, that's how I started, drill-and-cut, and it works, that's true. But a little while later when I got an angle grinder with a cut-off disc and a grinding disc to use for profiling, I couldn't BELIEVE how much nicer it was. And the cost for both the tool and the dics is under $25.

I'd avoid motor oil- it stinks to high heaven, and I'm pretty sure you don't want to breathe that smoke. I started with vegetable oil- the kind that's a blend of canola, corn, and peanut oils if I remember.

Good luck!
Mike
 
By the way, if you can find O-1 cheaper than 1095 or 1080 buy it! I've always felt it was a little on the expensive side. 1080 or 1084 will make a fine knife, early in your knife making I don't even think you'd be able to tell the difference between them and 1095 or even O-1.

Vegetable oil and mineral oil are both fine, you want enough to cool your blade and not reach a flash point. For a small blade (3" or so) I just use 3 or 4 quarts. Motor oil does stink. Wash your blades with hot soapy water before you temper them, especially if you're married.

Also agree with the angle grinder suggestion. No more dull/broken drill bits and about 10 times faster. Don't worry about grinding with it, just cut out your piece and use the grinding wheel the get the outside profile and then file it. My angle grinder was 10 bucks from harbor frieght and worth every penny.
 
I think you might want to try the 5160 simply because it doesn't need to quench quit as fast as 1095 or 1080/1084. All oils are not equally as good at cooling steel to harden and I have learned 1095 requires a pretty fast oil. The cost of a fair sized piece of 5160 is not much more than any other good blade steel and less than many.
 
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