A few quick 1084 HT questions

Stark Knives

Stark Knives

Joined
Mar 19, 2010
Messages
1,154
I'm going to HT my blades tonight and had a few quick questions. Here's what I'm thinking for a process.

Heat the blades just a little past non-magnetic and quench in heated canola oil. Then temper at 400º for two hours and let air cool to room temp then repeat.

1. Should I quench the blades vertically of horizontally? I have one large kitchen knife, is that the same?

2. How should I clean the blade prior to tempering? I don't want to stink up the house.

3. Is it necessary to HT the tang? It would be kind of hard to heat up the entire knife.

I think that's it for now, but I may think of another question or two.
 
1. I usually use a quench tank deep enough to quench vertically, but it's really a matter of personal preference. The key is to get the whole blade in the quenchant ASAP.

2. Dawn dish soap and a scotch brite pad. Your wife will thank you.

3. No. You can leave the tang soft if you'd like.

4. Use a rack. I try to stand them up on the spine. Don't lay them flat.
 
A vertical quench lessons warp. Usually. It is also OK to water quench between your temper cycles. Acually it is some what beneficial to do so.
 
Be sure to do it in complete darkness. When you get the blade to non magnetic take note of the color of the entire blade and keep heating making sure the color is consistent throughout the blade before quenching.
 
And would a ceramic vase break if I were to quench in one? How hot would the oil get when the knife get put in?
 
A vase wouldn't break from the heat as long as it's ceramic. Be sure to use enough oil, a gallon or so or enough to cover the blade with plenty of room to spare all around. If it warps, you need to straighten after quenching, but before it reaches room temperature. Quench the blade and count a few seconds and pull it out. If it's still smoking from the heat, it's warm enough to straighten. I have not done this, so you'll have to practice on a couple of scrap pieces. Use heavy welders gloves or similar.

If heating to non-magnetic, you may need to quench it a couple of times to reach full hardness. The procedure I read used 2 times, but it had very good temperature control. You may need 3 or 4 times. Home heat treating with a forge and magnet requires practice. Don't expect great results from the first try. It can be done, but there is a rather steep learning curve.

I've heard to quench tip first, spine first, and edge first, the latter primarily if you want to edge quench. Spine and point first minimize warping, but don't allow for an edge quench.

Washing the blade will be sufficient I suspect. I used to use olive oil, and didn't have any problems just washing blades in the sink.

You don't need to heat treat the tang. Your procedure should yield quite a hard blade capable of a fine, durable edge, but again, may require some practice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top