A folder is born - Mid-Tech approach to a Ti framelock (WIP)

Sharp & Fiery said:
This is rad. Thank you, Bogdan.
Click to expand...
You are too kind my dear friend! Thank you very much ;)

This knife will most likely go to AZCK after a short sale on forums but all this when it will be ready.

All the best brothers, God bless,
Bogdan
 
25. today i was little bit lazy - (just kidding) i did that one work that takes too much time and patience that is enough for a day - hand sanding the blade following the path of hamon :)
I use a micarta block and automotive waterproof sandpaper as it is readily available and has all levels of grits - right off the grinder the blade is at 120 grit so i start the hand sanding at 180 grit - 240 - 400 - 600 - 800 - sometimes up to 1500 but usually stop at 800.
I planed to do the etching too but it got late and on top of that the water that supply the shop freeze (you can imagine how warm the shop is right?! :D) so i had to postpone by tomorrow.
56.jpg57.jpg58.jpg

That's all for today and hopefully tomorrow we'll do some more entertaining work ;)

All the best friends, God bless,
Bogdan
 
26. Now we have to make it work so the next step is to make the lock face on the blade to correctly close with the lock bar.
First i mark with a marker the area where the lock will engage, then i fully assemble the knife.
59.jpg

27. With the knife fully assembled and the blade in the open position, using a very thin cutter blade i scribe the lock face line onto the tang as seen in the pic below.
60.jpg

28. Disassemble and here we go - we have the exact geometry that we need to follow when grinding the lock face on the blade.
61.jpg

29. I set grinder table to 9.3 degrees (this works best for me) and proceed with the grinding. There are two 'tricks' here that can ruin the whole project if not taken care of:
- grind on speed up until near the marked line and then grind only very, very little at once - the tolerances are so tight in here that a slight push on the grinder will immediately make the lock bar over travel. If this happens (happen to me quite a few times) the only way to repair is to make a thicker stop pin to compensate but you will also need to adjust the the stop ping groove depth on the blade to accommodate the new thicker pin and allow the blade to correctly engage with the detent. Old Chinese work - few times i did it was enough to turn my beard white :D - so take your time and grind SLOWLY!

- the lock bar should only touch the lock face on the blade in it's lower spot or else you will have a sloppy lock (i tried to make a drawing for this and is also visible in the pic below).
62.jpg63.jpglock.jpg
30. Now some decorations - i milled a narrow channel for a Gold FAT carbon insert and then did my 'nebula' anodizing on the bolster for a nice contrast.
64.jpg65.jpg66.jpg
 
31. Carbidizing the lock face - i use a variable power source at 40V and 3.2a (got the values off the internet and seems to work very nice but anyone can experiment) and a Dremel engraver set on '3' and of course a carbide tip. Works wonders for durability and lock stick.
67.jpg68.jpg69.jpg

32. All ready for final assembly but this will be done tomorrow so we can also take some worthy pictures ;)
70.jpg

33. The custom thumb stud is ready too but i forgot to take pics :D - basically it is turned on my precision lathe out of stainless steel and wears a nice Gold FAT carbon insert to match with the theme; i made a domed top on it and looks gorgeous - promise to take good pics of it tomorrow as it deserves some attention.

Last thing to do is to mill the carbon fiber pocket slip and the knife will be available.

All the best brothers, God bless,
Bogdan
 
Wow. This is really cool to follow along. Thank you for doing this. It looks to be an extremely cool knife.
 
Terry M. said:
Wow. This is really cool to follow along. Thank you for doing this. It looks to be an extremely cool knife.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much my dear friend!

All the best, God bless,
Bogdan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top