A.G. Russell Large Folding Hunter?

More more question- 8cr13mov i gather is like AUS-8, (which i really like,) & i'd assume AG Russell has them do a thorough heat treat.

that being said, what angle, roughly, do you guys keep your using blades at?
8cr13mov's higher edge stability/ lower carbide count should make it better for low angles & push cutting, right? Is anybody pushing 10 degrees per side?

I usually do a convex edge, then maintain w/ waterstones or Arkansas, & i've been lowering edge angles w/ good results- but i'm no expert!! :)
 
I'm with you on thin knives & edges- sure i like more thickness for hunting & wilderness stuff, but for 95% of the time, thinner is better, (my old Case CV Stockman outslices almost any tactical folder i've owned or used.)

Sure, indestructible knives are great for a 1-tool option, but i doubt most are used that way.

I agree. As I have said many times, I use my knives in construction work on a daily basis. Although I use larger modern knives quite a bit on the job site, I never seem to need the overbuilt power cutters/choppers that most require. Heck, for years I used a 4" CASE like you mentioned and it worked out just fine. The bigger knives work better and take more rough use, but when using a knife as a knife, I rarely felt under-knifed with a sharp CASE in my pocket.


More more question- 8cr13mov i gather is like AUS-8, (which i really like,) & i'd assume AG Russell has them do a thorough heat treat.

that being said, what angle, roughly, do you guys keep your using blades at?
8cr13mov's higher edge stability/ lower carbide count should make it better for low angles & push cutting, right? Is anybody pushing 10 degrees per side?

I usually do a convex edge, then maintain w/ waterstones or Arkansas, & i've been lowering edge angles w/ good results- but i'm no expert!! :)

I know that many will disagree with this, and certainly they will chime in. I don't have a favorite angle for every knife. I use the knife, and I determine the grind and sharpening angle based on the blade shape, thickness and overall grind of the blades (not the edge at this point). So for a more obtuse grind of the blade (like a thick bladed knife or a sabre grind) I try to ease back the edge a great deal to make it a better cutter. On the other hand, if the blade is nice and thin like the above referenced AGR Barlow or the old CASE knives, I don't go much past 20 - 25 degree per side as the edge tends to get too thin and fragile.

Robert
 
That makes a lot of sense- i'll definitely give it a try. I'm still learning a lot of this stuff; i'm young but have been using knives most of my life, but i learned mostly from my Grandpop & the 2 older farmers i grew up next to. They all used Case knives for EDC, and a Buck 110 was a "modern" knife. It's only been as i got older i learned what a tactical knife was.

Point being, i learned how to sharpen on Arkansas stones, but the technique was pretty simple- 2 stone grits, something like a 25-30 degree inclusive convex edge, and stropping on plain leather.

That works great for CV, 1095, etc, but not as well for more complex steels. I do know i can get abbeautiful edge on AUS-8, (a finer edge than S30V for woodworking,) so the AGR 8CR13MOV shouldn't be too much of a challenge.

These AG Russell folders are just gorgeous knives- hard to believe this quality is made overseas, (and as a result,) is so affordable.


F.T.R. I haven't given up on Case or US knives, (i want a Queen, and will be getting a GEC 42,) but i just love the AGR designs.
 
That makes a lot of sense- i'll definitely give it a try. I'm still learning a lot of this stuff; i'm young but have been using knives most of my life, but i learned mostly from my Grandpop & the 2 older farmers i grew up next to. They all used Case knives for EDC, and a Buck 110 was a "modern" knife. It's only been as i got older i learned what a tactical knife was..

Hard to beat learning from those guys. I am kind of weary of folks that simply parrot what they hear or are no more than collectors chiming in about "hard use" knives and all that kind of jazz. Nothing wrong with collecting and admiring, but you don't really test the limits of a knife much when you use it to cut up apples at lunch.

The fellas you are talking about carry knives that have a duty, are used a tool, and have to go to work every day just like them. So they carry reliable, proven brands to work they know they can depend on. All I carried for years in my construction work on the job site was a CASE knife of some sort, usually a 4" stockman or a 4" copperhead. MANY of my compatriots carried the Buck 110, and it has an unbeatable track record developed by decades of use from blue collar workers, hunters, fisherman, hikers, campers and trade workers. It's a tough act to beat.

Point being, i learned how to sharpen on Arkansas stones, but the technique was pretty simple- 2 stone grits, something like a 25-30 degree inclusive convex edge, and stropping on plain leather.

That works great for CV, 1095, etc, but not as well for more complex steels. I do know i can get abbeautiful edge on AUS-8, (a finer edge than S30V for woodworking,) so the AGR 8CR13MOV shouldn't be too much of a challenge.

These AG Russell folders are just gorgeous knives- hard to believe this quality is made overseas, (and as a result,) is so affordable.


F.T.R. I haven't given up on Case or US knives, (i want a Queen, and will be getting a GEC 42,) but i just love the AGR designs.

IMO, you learned to sharpen the right way. I think everyone should learn to sharpen free hand, but most can't get the hang of it. Since I learned to sharpen free hand, all the neat stuff we have now for sharpening makes it a walk in the park. I set the angles on the knives I buy when I determine what they will be using a Lansky setup. Nothing fancy, just the regular stones, not diamonds. The Lansky set up takes a bit of practice, but YouTube videos are readily available to help get you started. After the blade angle is set, I strop now and then on a piece of heavy cardboard with green compound on it - works like a champ! I still sharpen as needed, but actual sharpening is really just touch ups as I don't use my knives for much more than cutting tools.

And since you learned wrist control and repeatability of the angles you want by learning free hand, you might be comfortable with my favorite way to do a quick resharpen of my working knives. I do a couple or three passes on each side of the blades on my larger working knives (mostly 8CR13, AUS8, 420HC, and D2) as needed on a 800gr 12" oval diamond rod. A bit pricey, but in the right hands you can slick up your edges in seconds (or ruin them if not careful!) with the right rod. Once again, NONE of my friends can get the hang of the rod, and I know it is in part because they don't have years of free hand sharpening behind them.

Go after those AGR knives. He has them do something special to his steels, not sure whether it is tighter quality control or just having the knives made to his specs. They seem harder than the other knives I have with similar steels. I have 3 or 4 of his knives and the fit and finish is no less than superb. What a surprise for some of those prices. Best of all, the man stands 110% behind his product!

Robert
 
I have been a customer of AG's for years. It is understood that if he's selling it, it's special.
 
(...)
Go after those AGR knives. He has them do something special to his steels, not sure whether it is tighter quality control or just having the knives made to his specs. They seem harder than the other knives I have with similar steels. I have 3 or 4 of his knives and the fit and finish is no less than superb. What a surprise for some of those prices. Best of all, the man stands 110% behind his product!

Robert

I started buying from A.G. Russell back in the early '90s. The thing that sticks in my mind most clearly, in beginning to favor his knives at the time, was the impression that he got the most out of every blade steel used in his designs. I was always impressed with the edge grinds (seldom felt the need to change them*), and he seemed to spec the hardness a bit higher on most of them, than what I was seeing advertised from other makers. All of that was perfectly in tune with the fit & finish and other high standards of quality seen in everything I ordered from him.

*BTW, that cut on my finger, seen in the pic I posted earlier in the thread, came from just a light graze against the factory edge on that trapper's clip blade. I've seen an awful lot of factory edges that wouldn't have done it at all, given the same circumstances. I was impressed. :D


David
 
Hi Robert! Thanks!
I batted getting this folder for quite some time. It's a BIG folder. This AGR will be my only overkill traditional!
I will get some pix up.
rolf
 
Back
Top