A good grinder

Do a search on shoptalk, this issue has been discussed to death. For my money, KMG is the king, but best bang for the buck is probably the Coote, it's not the cheapist, but it's good quality and will serve you well.

Also, just starting out you don't need a grinder. Use good files and you'll be surprised how quick it goes. A grinder is great, but is nothing more than a faster file, and faster also means a faster way to screw up. I still on ocasion turn a 8" bowie into a 3" hunter.
 
+1 on this:

Will52100 said:
Do a search on shoptalk, this issue has been discussed to death. For my money, KMG is the king, but best bang for the buck is probably the Coote, it's not the cheapist, but it's good quality and will serve you well.

Also, just starting out you don't need a grinder. Use good files and you'll be surprised how quick it goes. A grinder is great, but is nothing more than a faster file, and faster also means a faster way to screw up. I still on ocasion turn a 8" bowie into a 3" hunter.
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yeh the coote rocks! But it doesn't have a million (or that many at all) of attachments like the KMG! Buy both!
 
Of course you could build your own, bolted-together grinder using tmickley's No Weld Grinder/Sander Plans for about $400 with some scrounging for a motor.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496583

His suggestions for tools to build this:

A metal band saw is very helpful as is a drill press. If you don’t have a band saw, you can get the heavier material cut to size for a nominal charge (usually around $2 to $3 a cut after the first cut) from the metal supplier. A hand hack saw can handle most of the cuts. If you don’t have a drill press, you can use a variable speed hand drill.

A carpenter's square. A tape measure, a scribe point, assorted drill bits (actually just 4 drill bits – 1/8”, 5/16”, 3/8” and ½”), a 3/8”-16 tap and tap wrench. A Unibit™ (step drill bit) works exceptionally well in this project as a supplement to your regular drill bits or even in place of them. Cutting/tapping lubricant (oil will work but cutting lubricant works better). A rotary tool such as a Dremel™ tool (or hand file to) cut 2 ea 1” x 3/16” key way slots. Hand wrench or adjustable wrenches to tighten bolts.

You can see the tools required are very modest and simple.

I think this would beat the Coote for, potentially, less $$$$$ and you'd be able to say you built it yourself.

Just my 2 cents

Syn
 
Gerberblades,

Good choice, after you've made and sold a few, you will outgrow the Coote. By that time you'll have saved enough from your knife sales to move up to the higher price spread, KMG, Bader, Wilton, their are several other high end grinders.

You will always have use for the Coote around the shop.
 
I own a customized, variable speed Bader with a variety of accessories that I love.

That said, if I was just starting out, I'd build the No Weld grinder without hesitation and save a considerable amount of money to spend on belts, steel and other tools. No offense to Bader, mine is ROCK solid. I do need to replace the 1hp motor with a 2hp at some point but I wouldn't change anything else, right now. I admit to wondering if a MAP arm setup would be a good $400 investment (sounds like it).

Again, my 2 cents worth.

Syn
 
I have a $300.00 Kalamazoo 2x48 I got 20years ago, it is almost a piece of crap. it eats a lot of metal quickly, I had to build a platen for it, it is usable, My stepfather wanted one like it because every time I work in my shop at his house I would bring mine down with me, He I convinced him for about the same money (actually less than the Kalamazoo currently sells for) to get the 2x72 Grizzly. It has a slower belt speed, and a better platen so it is much more controllable than my Kalamazoo, it has gobs of torque so I haven't been able to stall it yet, but it still isnt' a Bader. The first belt grinder I ever used was a Bader, when I sell a couple of the knives I am currently working on I will buy a Bader. If you are going to get something inexpensive I would say do noyt get anything less than the Grizzly, you will regret it, and you will be stuck with it because that was how you invested your money. Good tools aren't cheap, cheap tools (usually) aren't good. Buy the best tool you can afford, then you will only have to buy it once.

-Page
 
sunshadow said:
I have a $300.00 Kalamazoo 2x48 I got 20years ago, it is almost a piece of crap. it eats a lot of metal quickly, I had to build a platen for it, it is usable, My stepfather wanted one like it because every time I work in my shop at his house I would bring mine down with me, He I convinced him for about the same money (actually less than the Kalamazoo currently sells for) to get the 2x72 Grizzly. It has a slower belt speed, and a better platen so it is much more controllable than my Kalamazoo, it has gobs of torque so I haven't been able to stall it yet, but it still isnt' a Bader. The first belt grinder I ever used was a Bader, when I sell a couple of the knives I am currently working on I will buy a Bader. If you are going to get something inexpensive I would say do noyt get anything less than the Grizzly, you will regret it, and you will be stuck with it because that was how you invested your money. Good tools aren't cheap, cheap tools (usually) aren't good. Buy the best tool you can afford, then you will only have to buy it once.

-Page
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WELL PUT PAGE!
 
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