I love my Shun classic, but for a beater knife (one you can use of plates, pry open plastic bags and generally abuse and steel all you want) I like the Lamson Sharp 2 7/8ths" trimmer. Model L711 (in rosewood) here http://www.knifemerchant.com/products.asp?manufacturerID=8 The shape is more useful for some things and the blade is thick, soft stainless that will take a lot of abuse but easily grind back into shape.
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A good paring knife
- Thread starter Ebony
- Start date
Many thanks to all who responded and--as is typical for the forum--gave solid advice and links.
My opinion of the "cheapies" (Opinel,Forschner, Old Hickory, etc.) remains what it was before I asked the question here: They can be quite good! After all, when I'm at my desk working on a pear or apple it's the SAK that gets the call. I'd probably go for the Forschners but I really want something that I will enjoy using and looking at for a few decades (God willing). So probably the Forschners later but right now a paring knife of the first water.
I'd consider the customs recommended. The Murray Carter is the same $ as the Shun Classic on Amazon, but is the custom better than the Shun? I'd have to research it somehow.
The A.G. Russell line looks like the Shun Classic but with white Corian handles. I prefer a darker handle, and wood. I haven't looked at the Shun and Russell paring knives side by side but they look a lot alike-- VG10, Damascas. I'd go for the Shun unless I'm missing something.
The MAC Pro 3.25" looks good to me. Maybe the Shun has better steel? Better but not significantly better than the MAC?
The Shun is fine, really nice by my lights. It also has the virtue of being on Amazon while I have $20 in gift certificates, and I'll probably get another $10 before long. No MACs there but I could also pick up some Forschners if I had the urge.
The Shun isn't a hollow grind is it? All I have is two pairs of ceramic sticks and just enough knowledge to keep normal knives sharp.
My opinion of the "cheapies" (Opinel,Forschner, Old Hickory, etc.) remains what it was before I asked the question here: They can be quite good! After all, when I'm at my desk working on a pear or apple it's the SAK that gets the call. I'd probably go for the Forschners but I really want something that I will enjoy using and looking at for a few decades (God willing). So probably the Forschners later but right now a paring knife of the first water.
I'd consider the customs recommended. The Murray Carter is the same $ as the Shun Classic on Amazon, but is the custom better than the Shun? I'd have to research it somehow.
The A.G. Russell line looks like the Shun Classic but with white Corian handles. I prefer a darker handle, and wood. I haven't looked at the Shun and Russell paring knives side by side but they look a lot alike-- VG10, Damascas. I'd go for the Shun unless I'm missing something.
The MAC Pro 3.25" looks good to me. Maybe the Shun has better steel? Better but not significantly better than the MAC?
The Shun is fine, really nice by my lights. It also has the virtue of being on Amazon while I have $20 in gift certificates, and I'll probably get another $10 before long. No MACs there but I could also pick up some Forschners if I had the urge.
The Shun isn't a hollow grind is it? All I have is two pairs of ceramic sticks and just enough knowledge to keep normal knives sharp.
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2006
- Messages
- 732
I don't know, but I don't believe it will be an issue, even if it is. It's my understanding that the "hollow grind" just refers to the grind profile approaching the edge, not the edge itself. IOW: It isn't like the hollow grind on ice skates. The knife edge itself is just a normal bevel (flat or convex).
(I'm sure somebody will be along shortly to correct me if I'm wrong
.)
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
To my mind a true paring knife has a point for picking eyes out of potatos and coring apples, but for most other uses I like a MAC PK-40. It is extremely thin and its design is great for peeling and use on a cutting board. I bring these to my local soup kitchen an give them to the people handling peeling tasks or to people afraid of longer knives.
http://www.macknife.com/original.html
When MAC original series knives were introduced in the US back in the 60's they would tell people to keep them sharp by honing on the bottom of a plate. The first time I gave MAC knives a close look was about 12 years ago at a garage sale. I was looking for high end kitchen knives that I could refurbish and sell in an antique mall. I didn't think that a MAC would qualify, but I tested the edges on a couple MACs that a woman was selling. They were all extremely sharp although they were about 20 years old. When I bought the knives she told me that the salesman insisted that the blades be routinely sharpened on the bottom of a plate (and only on the bottom of a plate). I thought that she wouldn't sell me the knives if I told her that I might use an arkansas stone on them.
The MAC original series is made of a fine carbide steel (AUS-8 or equivalent). It takes and holds a really fine edge at a very low sharpening angle. It can easily be maintained on a ceramic hone (or the back of a plate). You just want to make honing a regular practice to maintain a high performance edge and avoid the hastle of major sharpening with an overly fine hone.
Some of the later MACs are made from something similar to an AUS-8T (with tunsten) for a harder edge with a really fine grain.
http://www.macknife.com/original.html
When MAC original series knives were introduced in the US back in the 60's they would tell people to keep them sharp by honing on the bottom of a plate. The first time I gave MAC knives a close look was about 12 years ago at a garage sale. I was looking for high end kitchen knives that I could refurbish and sell in an antique mall. I didn't think that a MAC would qualify, but I tested the edges on a couple MACs that a woman was selling. They were all extremely sharp although they were about 20 years old. When I bought the knives she told me that the salesman insisted that the blades be routinely sharpened on the bottom of a plate (and only on the bottom of a plate). I thought that she wouldn't sell me the knives if I told her that I might use an arkansas stone on them.
The MAC original series is made of a fine carbide steel (AUS-8 or equivalent). It takes and holds a really fine edge at a very low sharpening angle. It can easily be maintained on a ceramic hone (or the back of a plate). You just want to make honing a regular practice to maintain a high performance edge and avoid the hastle of major sharpening with an overly fine hone.
Some of the later MACs are made from something similar to an AUS-8T (with tunsten) for a harder edge with a really fine grain.