I can appreciate the lansky, have one and used it a lot for a while... But I grew up on stones and I've gone back to them. its faster and just as easy for me, so why not? Plus, my benchstone is MUCH faster to get a decent edge then I'll run it along my little pocket arkansas (which needs replacing)
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A Lansky tutorial
- Thread starter MSCantrell
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
- Messages
- 549
Zippy,
Hate to say this but get both ... the Lansky to reprofile, the SM to touch up and maintain. You won't regret either purchase if your a hard user and like a sharp edge on your knife ...
My $.02.
NJ
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
- Messages
- 549
Buck I hope that this is a natural progression for anyone that uses knives. The Lansky and SM get you over the hump while your learning to freehand. Freehanding is almost Zen like when you get into it ... LOL.
NJ
Great tutorial. Thanks!
I bought a GATCO, based on the comments in this forum plus the recommendations in the eGullet article on sharpening.
My first victim was an old stamped Ikea paring knife. My second was a 20+ year old Normark Big Swede that has been used but not abused, and never saw more than a small hand hone. I managed to get it shaving sharp and it would catch, but not really treetop, hairs on the back of my hand. Sort of a relaxing experience once you get into it (the sharpening, not the shaving).
Some thoughts:
I preferred to hold the knife handle rather than the clamp. It seemed more natural and felt a bit like using a hone without a clamp and guide rod. But I don't think it would work as well on a longer blade.
I preferred to position the hone on the bottom of the blade instead of the top. It just made it easier to see what the hone was doing, especially to position it accurately at the heel and tip of the blade. The GATCO's wider finger guards vs. the Lansky cover up more of the blade which I did not like.
The need to re-clamp the blade for longer knives seems like a pain. I'm not sure I would want to sharpen a chef knife on this. Eventually I'd like to learn to use a bench stone, but may try a Sharpmaker for the longer kitchen knives.
I have a Schrade Uncle Henry LB7 that needs sharpening but it is more dear (has some commemorative silk screening on the blade) so I want to practise more before moving on to it.
I bought a GATCO, based on the comments in this forum plus the recommendations in the eGullet article on sharpening.
My first victim was an old stamped Ikea paring knife. My second was a 20+ year old Normark Big Swede that has been used but not abused, and never saw more than a small hand hone. I managed to get it shaving sharp and it would catch, but not really treetop, hairs on the back of my hand. Sort of a relaxing experience once you get into it (the sharpening, not the shaving).
Some thoughts:
I preferred to hold the knife handle rather than the clamp. It seemed more natural and felt a bit like using a hone without a clamp and guide rod. But I don't think it would work as well on a longer blade.
I preferred to position the hone on the bottom of the blade instead of the top. It just made it easier to see what the hone was doing, especially to position it accurately at the heel and tip of the blade. The GATCO's wider finger guards vs. the Lansky cover up more of the blade which I did not like.
The need to re-clamp the blade for longer knives seems like a pain. I'm not sure I would want to sharpen a chef knife on this. Eventually I'd like to learn to use a bench stone, but may try a Sharpmaker for the longer kitchen knives.
I have a Schrade Uncle Henry LB7 that needs sharpening but it is more dear (has some commemorative silk screening on the blade) so I want to practise more before moving on to it.
MSCantrell
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,213
Thanks for the kind words, GibsonFan- much appreciated!
Mike
mscantrell at gmail.com
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2005
- Messages
- 149
MSCantrell
Thanks for your tips on how to use the Lansky. I can ad that if you riplace the wing bolts on the stonesand that plastic headed bolt on the clamp with grub allen grub screws that you wont have any problems using the 17 slot. Also the stones will last longer becuse of the extra travel.
Psycho78
The problem aof getting the edge lined up in the clamp is a bit tricky but can be got over. If the blade is flat ground I clamp it with soft solder wire each side of the blade which ceters it. To make sure I place a ruler each side of the clamp and check that the edge is centered. I am toolmaker and have to do this often in the machine shop.
I also made an extension plate that screws onto the clamp. It extends the slots each side so I can sharpen much longer blades. Got the idea from a mate's Ezy Sharp
Regards
Frank
Thanks for your tips on how to use the Lansky. I can ad that if you riplace the wing bolts on the stonesand that plastic headed bolt on the clamp with grub allen grub screws that you wont have any problems using the 17 slot. Also the stones will last longer becuse of the extra travel.
Psycho78
The problem aof getting the edge lined up in the clamp is a bit tricky but can be got over. If the blade is flat ground I clamp it with soft solder wire each side of the blade which ceters it. To make sure I place a ruler each side of the clamp and check that the edge is centered. I am toolmaker and have to do this often in the machine shop.
I also made an extension plate that screws onto the clamp. It extends the slots each side so I can sharpen much longer blades. Got the idea from a mate's Ezy Sharp
Regards
Frank
Nice job Mike and so nice of you to take the time to show this to folks. A lot of the "experts" here will tell you that the Lansky is junk but I've used it for many years and it works fine for some jobs. It's a good way for a beginner to put decent edges on their knives.
I was very good at free hand sharpening many, many years ago when I was in the Marines. I was the "designated sharpener" for all the other Marines' knives in my unit as I could get a shaving sharp edge fast. It's the way to go IF you can learn it but some folks just can't get the hang of it. As I've gotten older however, I find it more difficult to do, (eyesight, hand to eye coordination, whatever), and I've now come to prefer guides.
I switched to the Lansky diamond hones a few years back and I haven't used the regular stones since. The regular stones do work fine but the diamond hones make the job so much easier and faster. I haven't had any problems with my diamond hones clogging or smoothing out, (well, the course stone may have some over the years), but I've used the same stones for years and they still work great.
After I'm done with them I just use a toothbrush that I've cut the bristles halfway down and scrub them with dish soap and hot water. Works for me.
Your tutorial is sound but there's even a easier and quicker way to go. I just start on one side with the course stone and stroke back and forth over and over from tip to tang, (or vice-versa), and just keep going and checking until there's a nice even, discernable burr all along the opposite side of the edge, (as you said). Then just flip the knife over and do the same thing until that same burr is on the starting side. Let the stone do the work and there's no need to push down hard as the stone may slip.
Then just do one more light pass along the length of the blade, (on the start side), with the course stone to remove most of the heavy burr you've made. Now, switch to the fine stone and start counting strokes. I do 20 strokes along the entire edge, (again, letting the stone do the work), and then flip and do the same 20 on the other side. Then repeat. You can do any amount of strokes you like but I find it goes quicker with more strokes at first. I check the blade sharpness as I go on the top of my thumbnail.
Then I go to say 10 strokes on each side a few times and then go to say 5 strokes until the knife shaves hair or cuts into the top of your thumbnail with just the slightest amount of pressure. Again, keep the strokes light and let the stones do the work. When the blade is as sharp as you like, I then make one last very, very light pass on the start side to remove any burr that may still exsist.
To make sure the burr is completely gone, I usually make some very light passes on a smooth steel I have. You can also use the back of a writing tablet or a stroppe. It all sounds complicated and long but when you do it, it goes very fast.
Another tip is before you start sharpening, wrap blue masking tape around the tang so your sharpening strokes won't accidentally mar the tang.
Like I said Mike, your tutorial works great and I apologize for butting into your thread and if folks use your method, they'll get a good edge. I just wanted to share these other tips I've learned using the Lansky and I hope you don't mind.
Hi psycho,
I know those small, rounded spine blades can be a pain as well as blades with false edges. A tip I learned is to use a thin strip of leather or rubber, (like those jar openers), and then clamp down on the spine. It won't move.
Hi Frank,
Do you happen to have a pic of that extension? Sounds neat as the Lansky really isn't for long blades.
I was very good at free hand sharpening many, many years ago when I was in the Marines. I was the "designated sharpener" for all the other Marines' knives in my unit as I could get a shaving sharp edge fast. It's the way to go IF you can learn it but some folks just can't get the hang of it. As I've gotten older however, I find it more difficult to do, (eyesight, hand to eye coordination, whatever), and I've now come to prefer guides.
I switched to the Lansky diamond hones a few years back and I haven't used the regular stones since. The regular stones do work fine but the diamond hones make the job so much easier and faster. I haven't had any problems with my diamond hones clogging or smoothing out, (well, the course stone may have some over the years), but I've used the same stones for years and they still work great.
After I'm done with them I just use a toothbrush that I've cut the bristles halfway down and scrub them with dish soap and hot water. Works for me.
Your tutorial is sound but there's even a easier and quicker way to go. I just start on one side with the course stone and stroke back and forth over and over from tip to tang, (or vice-versa), and just keep going and checking until there's a nice even, discernable burr all along the opposite side of the edge, (as you said). Then just flip the knife over and do the same thing until that same burr is on the starting side. Let the stone do the work and there's no need to push down hard as the stone may slip.
Then just do one more light pass along the length of the blade, (on the start side), with the course stone to remove most of the heavy burr you've made. Now, switch to the fine stone and start counting strokes. I do 20 strokes along the entire edge, (again, letting the stone do the work), and then flip and do the same 20 on the other side. Then repeat. You can do any amount of strokes you like but I find it goes quicker with more strokes at first. I check the blade sharpness as I go on the top of my thumbnail.
Then I go to say 10 strokes on each side a few times and then go to say 5 strokes until the knife shaves hair or cuts into the top of your thumbnail with just the slightest amount of pressure. Again, keep the strokes light and let the stones do the work. When the blade is as sharp as you like, I then make one last very, very light pass on the start side to remove any burr that may still exsist.
To make sure the burr is completely gone, I usually make some very light passes on a smooth steel I have. You can also use the back of a writing tablet or a stroppe. It all sounds complicated and long but when you do it, it goes very fast.
Another tip is before you start sharpening, wrap blue masking tape around the tang so your sharpening strokes won't accidentally mar the tang.
Like I said Mike, your tutorial works great and I apologize for butting into your thread and if folks use your method, they'll get a good edge. I just wanted to share these other tips I've learned using the Lansky and I hope you don't mind.
Hi psycho,
I know those small, rounded spine blades can be a pain as well as blades with false edges. A tip I learned is to use a thin strip of leather or rubber, (like those jar openers), and then clamp down on the spine. It won't move.
Hi Frank,
Do you happen to have a pic of that extension? Sounds neat as the Lansky really isn't for long blades.
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2005
- Messages
- 149
Hi Gene
Good tips and you are right. As it comes the Lansky works best with blades up to 4" though I managed to sharpen my 6" Voyager without having to change the clamping and used the 17 slot. Very sharp. I clamped the blade so that the point was closer to the clamp than the handle. This way the angle of the edge at the point was not to severe and near the handle it dosent matter. Got better results than a mate did with the Edge pro and Eze Sharp. Hes got both. The Voyager blade near the point is very hard to hold on the Edgepro and the Eze Sharp clamp dosent like sbre grinds as it is made for butchers knives.
Sorry, don't have a camera. There are a number of ways of extending the slots on the Lansky but they all require some machine shop work. The best is to cut of the existing stem with the slots of the clamp just under the 17 slot and make new wider ones from sheet aliuminium and screw these to the clamp base. You will need 4 screws. I only use 2 slots, the 17 and 25. How much wider? You can do an 8" blade by extending the slots out to say 4" total width.
A bit simpler is to carefuly drill tap and screw two 1/4"x1/16" or 1/8" thick brass strips in alignment with the slot of your preference that extend out the sides of the L clamp. I only use the 17 slot for sharpening and the 25 for finishing the edge with the saphire stone to take of the burr. Has to be done with real care or else one side or the other will dip a bit and change the angle. Also attach the extensions the side nearest to the blade so as to keep the distance to the blade constant. If you go to wide the extension will vibrate and too short and the guide rod will fall off but you can always put something on the end to prevent this.
I also thought of a sliding rail that slides up and down the stem of the clamp and with side extensions but it has to be done to very close tolerances as any play will dip one side or the other down. For this to work the stem of the clamp itself will have to be machined absolutely paralel and cleaned up as it comes a bit rough from the factory.
Hope this helps
Frank
Good tips and you are right. As it comes the Lansky works best with blades up to 4" though I managed to sharpen my 6" Voyager without having to change the clamping and used the 17 slot. Very sharp. I clamped the blade so that the point was closer to the clamp than the handle. This way the angle of the edge at the point was not to severe and near the handle it dosent matter. Got better results than a mate did with the Edge pro and Eze Sharp. Hes got both. The Voyager blade near the point is very hard to hold on the Edgepro and the Eze Sharp clamp dosent like sbre grinds as it is made for butchers knives.
Sorry, don't have a camera. There are a number of ways of extending the slots on the Lansky but they all require some machine shop work. The best is to cut of the existing stem with the slots of the clamp just under the 17 slot and make new wider ones from sheet aliuminium and screw these to the clamp base. You will need 4 screws. I only use 2 slots, the 17 and 25. How much wider? You can do an 8" blade by extending the slots out to say 4" total width.
A bit simpler is to carefuly drill tap and screw two 1/4"x1/16" or 1/8" thick brass strips in alignment with the slot of your preference that extend out the sides of the L clamp. I only use the 17 slot for sharpening and the 25 for finishing the edge with the saphire stone to take of the burr. Has to be done with real care or else one side or the other will dip a bit and change the angle. Also attach the extensions the side nearest to the blade so as to keep the distance to the blade constant. If you go to wide the extension will vibrate and too short and the guide rod will fall off but you can always put something on the end to prevent this.
I also thought of a sliding rail that slides up and down the stem of the clamp and with side extensions but it has to be done to very close tolerances as any play will dip one side or the other down. For this to work the stem of the clamp itself will have to be machined absolutely paralel and cleaned up as it comes a bit rough from the factory.
Hope this helps
Frank
Hi Frank,
Thanks for the great info! Sounds like something I might look into as I have a couple extra Lansky kits I picked up for next to nothing on the sales board here years ago and have never used.
The Lansky is not for long blades, (over 6"), but CAN be used if one is careful. You have to clamp it further down from the spine. I don't use the Lansky for blades over 6". I use a DMT clamp I've had for years and a large bench stone.
I like your comment about clamping down closer to the tip on your Voyager. A lot of folks don't realize that the first inch or two of a blade, (except for maybe a knife used for kitchen duty), is used in about 90% of all your cutting. That's why I always make sure the front half of the blade gets most of my attention.
I also have an Edge Pro and a Sharpmaker. Both good systems but some folks have trouble with both. The Sharpmaker can take quite awhile on some severly dulled blades and with the Edge Pro some folks have trouble because you have to alternate from right to left hands. They can't get the control they need using their weak hand.
I have to admit that while one is getting the hang of using the Lansky, there is a negative. That is while some folks are learning, they tend to bear down too hard while they make their strokes. I always recommend for beginners to use the blue masking tape and cover the ENTIRE blade and tang with of course the exception of the edge. That way if they make mistakes, while stroking it won't damage their blade finish. I marred a few blades using the Lansky at first.
Free handing IS the best way to go but like I said, some folks can't master it and at the very least will severely mar their blades trying. That's why everyone who loves free handing recommends using junk blades to learn.
ALL the sharpening systems available today have their merits and will also have their die hard fans. They're ALL good but it sure costs a ton of money trying each one to see what works best for you.
Even with the Lansky I recommend everyone to have a smooth steel. Tablet backs, cardboard, jeans and stroppes are all good but there's nothing like a few light strokes on a smooth steel to straighten those "feathers" out on a edge between sharpenings.
Sorry for the long posts but I wanted to again thank Mike for starting this thread and his great photos. Follow his advice and some of the other tips in this thread and most beginners will appreciate the Lansky and how easy it is to use. And thanks again Frank for the info.
Thanks for the great info! Sounds like something I might look into as I have a couple extra Lansky kits I picked up for next to nothing on the sales board here years ago and have never used.
The Lansky is not for long blades, (over 6"), but CAN be used if one is careful. You have to clamp it further down from the spine. I don't use the Lansky for blades over 6". I use a DMT clamp I've had for years and a large bench stone.
I like your comment about clamping down closer to the tip on your Voyager. A lot of folks don't realize that the first inch or two of a blade, (except for maybe a knife used for kitchen duty), is used in about 90% of all your cutting. That's why I always make sure the front half of the blade gets most of my attention.
I also have an Edge Pro and a Sharpmaker. Both good systems but some folks have trouble with both. The Sharpmaker can take quite awhile on some severly dulled blades and with the Edge Pro some folks have trouble because you have to alternate from right to left hands. They can't get the control they need using their weak hand.
I have to admit that while one is getting the hang of using the Lansky, there is a negative. That is while some folks are learning, they tend to bear down too hard while they make their strokes. I always recommend for beginners to use the blue masking tape and cover the ENTIRE blade and tang with of course the exception of the edge. That way if they make mistakes, while stroking it won't damage their blade finish. I marred a few blades using the Lansky at first.
Free handing IS the best way to go but like I said, some folks can't master it and at the very least will severely mar their blades trying. That's why everyone who loves free handing recommends using junk blades to learn.
ALL the sharpening systems available today have their merits and will also have their die hard fans. They're ALL good but it sure costs a ton of money trying each one to see what works best for you.
Even with the Lansky I recommend everyone to have a smooth steel. Tablet backs, cardboard, jeans and stroppes are all good but there's nothing like a few light strokes on a smooth steel to straighten those "feathers" out on a edge between sharpenings.
Sorry for the long posts but I wanted to again thank Mike for starting this thread and his great photos. Follow his advice and some of the other tips in this thread and most beginners will appreciate the Lansky and how easy it is to use. And thanks again Frank for the info.
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2005
- Messages
- 149
Hi Gene,
Now why didnt I think of this? A mate said, why bothjer with making complicated extensions for the Lansky. Just get a couple more clamps and bolt them to the blade at intervals! I guess that the tricky bit will bo to line them up with the edge so each clamp will give the same angle. Going to give it a try. The clamps are cheap enough.
Regards
Frank
Now why didnt I think of this? A mate said, why bothjer with making complicated extensions for the Lansky. Just get a couple more clamps and bolt them to the blade at intervals! I guess that the tricky bit will bo to line them up with the edge so each clamp will give the same angle. Going to give it a try. The clamps are cheap enough.
Regards
Frank
- Joined
- May 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1
Well it's 2013 and this thread is still informative. I've been using Lansky for going on 30 years now. Ran across this thread on Google while looking at diamond hones for Lansky. Been happy with my Lansky for these many years, but still learned a thing or three. Thanks for the tutorial.