- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 5,547
I haven't posted a knife in Shoptalk in a while... I do like to share what I'm doing with you makers from time to time. Here is a liner lock with G10 scales, 300 series stainless bolsters, .080 6Al4V Ti liners, and a D2 blade.
The blade is hollow ground and treated to 59-60 Rc. Finish is Gator A45. The bolsters are finished with a "very fine" scotchbrite belt. The G10 is sanded and buffed.
Stop pin is 1/4" major diameter, hardened 416 ss, with shoulders pressed into the liners.
This is the first knife for which I ground the lock face with a radius- I built a 4" steel wheel to get a 2" radius on the lock face. Before, I've just ground them with a flat 7 degree face. After visiting Ken Onion a while back, and getting the lock geometry rap from him, then watching his method of cutting a radiused lock face (carbide milling cutter) I did some thinking. I went back to Bob Terzuola's book and looked at his setup for hollow grinding lock faces with a 4" hard wheel. Bob T. uses an 8 degree angle, so I went with that. I made a grinder attachment for the steel wheel with an articulable rest, and ground the lock face. The face of the Ti lock bar is ground slightly to match the lock face angle when engaged.
I really like the result. It locks up great, right where I want it, and does not bind. If anything, the detent is a little hyperactive- strong for sure, but upon a little practice with this knife it can be easily flipped open. A solid feel for sure. It passed the workbench test very well, see the vid for that! What remains to be seen is how this lock action is doing in 10 years... the idea is that it will still fit up well after some lock wear, due to the slightly hollow lock face.
I'm sure some of you will be chuckling at my relative lack of folder expertise- but some of you guys may enjoy the pics at any rate.
[video=youtube_share;jhKhN4t-kNQ]http://youtu.be/jhKhN4t-kNQ[/video]
The blade is hollow ground and treated to 59-60 Rc. Finish is Gator A45. The bolsters are finished with a "very fine" scotchbrite belt. The G10 is sanded and buffed.
Stop pin is 1/4" major diameter, hardened 416 ss, with shoulders pressed into the liners.
This is the first knife for which I ground the lock face with a radius- I built a 4" steel wheel to get a 2" radius on the lock face. Before, I've just ground them with a flat 7 degree face. After visiting Ken Onion a while back, and getting the lock geometry rap from him, then watching his method of cutting a radiused lock face (carbide milling cutter) I did some thinking. I went back to Bob Terzuola's book and looked at his setup for hollow grinding lock faces with a 4" hard wheel. Bob T. uses an 8 degree angle, so I went with that. I made a grinder attachment for the steel wheel with an articulable rest, and ground the lock face. The face of the Ti lock bar is ground slightly to match the lock face angle when engaged.
I really like the result. It locks up great, right where I want it, and does not bind. If anything, the detent is a little hyperactive- strong for sure, but upon a little practice with this knife it can be easily flipped open. A solid feel for sure. It passed the workbench test very well, see the vid for that! What remains to be seen is how this lock action is doing in 10 years... the idea is that it will still fit up well after some lock wear, due to the slightly hollow lock face.
I'm sure some of you will be chuckling at my relative lack of folder expertise- but some of you guys may enjoy the pics at any rate.
[video=youtube_share;jhKhN4t-kNQ]http://youtu.be/jhKhN4t-kNQ[/video]
