A newbies consolidated questions.

Well my files came in today... aaaaand the file surfaces are 4 inches long :sigh:... So if my first few knives are going to be pretty short is this a minor problem or do I need to get new files? Well I guess thats what you get for ordering off of amazon...
 
Willie71 said:
I know a machinist who swore by a piece of brass instead of a file card. Haven't tried it myself.
Click to expand...

Brass works well enough, there where a few guys in my old shop who used it to removing pennings from files. Personally I just use a file card or wire brush.
 
Got the supplies a few days back and couldn't resist putting tool to steel (and micarta:D) so this is what I came up with. No ht but it has a decent edge on it enough to sharpen a pencil heard some body call it a "utility edge". Any feed back or criticism is appreciated
0t54.jpg



0dgj.jpg



2oci.jpg
 
Last edited:
So I've heard about a "superglue treatment" where the micarta is coated with super glue does anybody have some info on this?

Thanks
 
Just an update, guys. Pmang6's dad got with me and we are working on his blank......I hope he can wait for it to get there :)

Photos as they are ready.
 
bladsmth said:
Just an update, guys. Pmang6's dad got with me and we are working on his blank......I hope he can wait for it to get there :)

Photos as they are ready.
Click to expand...

Can't wait to see how it'll all come out in the end... very excited :biggrin: !
 
The enthusiasm is great! Slow down and take your time though. Enjoy the process. My inlaws have commented that they really enjoy the progression of each knife step by step since they visit weekly. Be satisfied with each step, and be sure it is the best you can do at the time (each one will get better, so the standards go up with each one as well.)
 
pmang6 said:
Yea I've figured that I probably ordered the wrong thickness seeing as its only an inch wide.... Hmmm so does anybody have suggestions on a good grind? I'm thinkin' saber grind...
Click to expand...

I started out with a flat grind and found that it was not that difficult. Not real easy either but I did a few practice runs on some mild steel and scraps. I made a jig for grinding but got frustrated with dunking a jig and blade in water for cooling and getting water everywhere. That and having to swap the blade back and forth on the jig itself. You can get a cheap Harbor Freight 1x30 (around $30.00) to start or what I did was start with a Craftsman 2x42. I also have the cheap HF 1x30 but only use it for sharpening now. If using a grinder I can not recommend Fred Rowes Bubble Jig enough. Of all the tools I have bought it has probably helped me out the most. I guess its basically a jig of sorts but no swapping blades back and forth on a regular jig and using it really helps you develop your freehand skills while still allowing you to keep straight and even plunge lines. Go to his web site and check out the videos, its as easy as he shows with a little practice.
 
Willie71 said:
The enthusiasm is great! Slow down and take your time though. Enjoy the process. My inlaws have commented that they really enjoy the progression of each knife step by step since they visit weekly. Be satisfied with each step, and be sure it is the best you can do at the time (each one will get better, so the standards go up with each one as well.)
Click to expand...

Will do!

crocogator106 said:
I started out with a flat grind and found that it was not that difficult. Not real easy either but I did a few practice runs on some mild steel and scraps. I made a jig for grinding but got frustrated with dunking a jig and blade in water for cooling and getting water everywhere. That and having to swap the blade back and forth on the jig itself. You can get a cheap Harbor Freight 1x30 (around $30.00) to start or what I did was start with a Craftsman 2x42. I also have the cheap HF 1x30 but only use it for sharpening now. If using a grinder I can not recommend Fred Rowes Bubble Jig enough. Of all the tools I have bought it has probably helped me out the most. I guess its basically a jig of sorts but no swapping blades back and forth on a regular jig and using it really helps you develop your freehand skills while still allowing you to keep straight and even plunge lines. Go to his web site and check out the videos, its as easy as he shows with a little practice.
Click to expand...

Hmm if I really enjoy this knife then a grinder will be the next purchase. First the HF then the 2x42. I saw the bubble jig on USA knifemaker if I do get the grinder I'll look into that.
 
Here is the blank going to this lad. I also cut a handle blank of stabilized black dyed fancy maple, with Corby rivets. In the box was a set of files and a stack of sandpaper, plus some instructions.
His drawing lacked some things, so I slightly modified it. I was also out of thin 1084, so I substituted damascus.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1167.jpg
    DSCF1167.jpg
    34.9 KB · Views: 24
bladsmth said:
Here is the blank going to this lad. I also cut a handle blank of stabilized black dyed fancy maple, with Corby rivets. In the box was a set of files and a stack of sandpaper, plus some instructions.
His drawing lacked some things, so I slightly modified it. I was also out of thin 1084, so I substituted damascus.
Click to expand...

Holy cow, that is awesome! :thumbup:
 
Got the package today! Thanks so much Stacy you are a great help!! Started with the filing but the thing is the bevel only comes about 3/4 of an inch from the edge. Is this normal? Am At to high of an angle? Thanks everyone for the help.
 
When the knife is done you want the bevel to go all the way from the spine to the edge. If it looks OK with the bevels only 3/4 up toward the spine, that is OK for now. You will sand it the rest of the way up after HT. At this point it is more important to leave the edge about half a dimes thickness. If you over-file the edge too thin ( which is easy to do), just give it a few strokes with the file to thicken it up. I'll adjust anything that needs a touch up when I do the HT.
 
Not sure if you got what I meant. The bevel so far is 3/4 of an inch from what will be the cutting edge. Sorry if I am mistaken!

Thanks,
Parker
 
Good on you, Stacy! And nice substitution. I should be getting a steel order in on Thursday and I wouldn't mind getting a switch up like that one.

Not to speak for Stacy but 3/4 of an inch or 3/4 of the entire width is really no difference for your purpose. Just don't thin out the edge too much and adjust the angle as necessary to work the bevel closer to the spine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top