Hello,
After spending a decent amount of time playing with 5160 and making a few decent pieces, I have an issue I would like to know if anyone can chime in on. I started off quenching my 5160 long blades, 18-30 inches, in some used motor oil I got from the local oil change place; I am not going to say was the best, its just what I started with. The oil was placed in a 5 inch diameter tube and the blade would be dropped in it resulting in positive sori of about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inches. There was some flare up with the oil, and I won't claim it was the best method, but with safety gear and such in place, it worked. Needles to say I was pleased and turned out several machete "katanas." At the time (year and a half ago) I did not know about the effects oil should have on 5160 and long blades. After a while, I began reading about better, more healthy (as far as exposure) oils such as vegetable oils. I switched to a vegetable oil and then tried using a peanut / vegetable oil mix. The problem is ever since I switched, all of my 5160 blades contract into a reverse sori - not what I want for most projects. Despite trying the clay thing, going spine first, vertical or horizontal, heating the quench oil, I cannot replicate the effects of that crappy used motor oil. Can any one offer any suggestions why I would have experienced such a thing with used motor oil which should have, from what I have read, been a slower quench than vegi... but, even still its an oil, not water. I am at a loss and after reading so many of these helpful posts, thought I'd present my quandary to people better than me.
Thank you.
After spending a decent amount of time playing with 5160 and making a few decent pieces, I have an issue I would like to know if anyone can chime in on. I started off quenching my 5160 long blades, 18-30 inches, in some used motor oil I got from the local oil change place; I am not going to say was the best, its just what I started with. The oil was placed in a 5 inch diameter tube and the blade would be dropped in it resulting in positive sori of about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inches. There was some flare up with the oil, and I won't claim it was the best method, but with safety gear and such in place, it worked. Needles to say I was pleased and turned out several machete "katanas." At the time (year and a half ago) I did not know about the effects oil should have on 5160 and long blades. After a while, I began reading about better, more healthy (as far as exposure) oils such as vegetable oils. I switched to a vegetable oil and then tried using a peanut / vegetable oil mix. The problem is ever since I switched, all of my 5160 blades contract into a reverse sori - not what I want for most projects. Despite trying the clay thing, going spine first, vertical or horizontal, heating the quench oil, I cannot replicate the effects of that crappy used motor oil. Can any one offer any suggestions why I would have experienced such a thing with used motor oil which should have, from what I have read, been a slower quench than vegi... but, even still its an oil, not water. I am at a loss and after reading so many of these helpful posts, thought I'd present my quandary to people better than me.
Thank you.