A Quench_plate Problem

seamus

seamus

Joined
Jun 19, 2003
Messages
148
I use S.S. steels almost exclusively and at the higher temps to harden have had some welding of the tool wrap to the blades before. Last night,though ,was ridiculous. I was soaking three D2 blades at 1875 degrees for 40 minutes. One of the blades, because it was curved to be a belt knife, was to be oil quenched. It went fine---been there,done that. The other two, also wrapped in#321, were tossed between the quench plates mounted in a vise. I had to use a single edge razor to seperate the tool wrap from the blades after the cryo and before tempering. What a pain! I have some higher temp#309 that I keep for BG-42, etc.,that I don't think I should have to use at 1875 degrees. Because the curved blade popped out just fine from it's packet, I'm thinking the quench plates more or less forged the packets to the two other blades. Other than using #309, does anyone have a solution?
 
Cook the foil before putting the blade in, to oxidize the surface so it won't stick?
 
Well, I was going to chime in with the answer, but it appears you already know it. 1875 is higher than the low temp stuff is rated for. I use 309 and quench plates with D2, but that's what I keep in the shop for machine work.

I'm also interested to see what other folks do. If memory serves me (and it seldom does) I think I remember Butch uses the low temp stuff up real high and quench plates.

Ping Butch: what's up with that?
 
We use 309 only with no problems. Depending on who you buy it from, the 321 may be recommended for something between 1800 to 2000. I doubt the ones who say 1800 just want to devalue their product - so I presume they are the more honest advertisers.

We plate quench between thick aluminum plates with clamping pressure - and have never had an envelope stick to a blade since we switched to 309. We have had envelopes blow up - not acceptable with a customer's blade, so we now double wrap everything with 309.

It's been said about grinding belts - and it applies to foil. Use it like it's free. :)

Rob!
 
I was sort of hoping the answer would be to use Pam. I guess I'll just figure on using up the #321 on the lower temp steels and make it a rule to buy the#309 only in the future. Thanks for your advice,all.
Jim
 
I'm not sure this will work with D2 but works well with Ats_ I used to have that problem and even some carburizing, Paul Bos told me to put a small piece of cardboard in the foil with the blades to burn out the oxygen. I usually air blast till I can get the packet open then plate quench 18 long, 4 wide and 1/2 thick till about room temp and then its dry ice and alcohol for three hours before the draw.
 
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