A question about 3V austenitizing temperature and retained austenite.

hugofeynman said:
“My guys” are like me, obsessed with high performance. Toughness, in my case. They “run the extra mile” for that 5-10% gain in performance.
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That's cool. It sounds like a lot of fun. I'm into balance of properties, including balancing performance with ease of manufacture for the tools I have (including final finishing) in addition to balance of properties with respect to intended use. If I was making a dedicated chopper I'd use 3V at 56 HRC or maybe try A8 mod at 56 or some other steel. I think 3V at 62 will make a fine general-purpose outdoor skinner, slicer, whittler and kindling prep. blade. For me, looking at my philosophy of use and not getting hyper focused on one aspect is important.
 
HPD said:
That's cool. It sounds like a lot of fun. I'm into balance of properties, including balancing performance with ease of manufacture for the tools I have (including final finishing) in addition to balance of properties with respect to intended use. If I was making a dedicated chopper I'd use 3V at 56 HRC or maybe try A8 mod at 56 or some other steel. I think 3V at 62 will make a fine general-purpose outdoor skinner, slicer, whittler and kindling prep. blade. For me, looking at my philosophy of use and not getting hyper focused on one aspect is important.
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I think you’re being far too conservative with your hardness.

I made a light chopper 7 inch blade .134 stock CPM 4V hardened to 63.3 HRC running .01 BTE with a 20 DPS edge and have never had a single issue with the edge. The only reason I say it’s a light chopper is that it doesn’t have a ton of mass to it.
 
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Seedy Lot said:
I stopped using 3v years ago as I feel that Cruwear has provided a better balance for me and it is very easy to get 62+ Rc. If you have not tried Cruwear I would highly recommend giving it a try.
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I’m about to make the switch to either cruwear or 4V.
 
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Seedy Lot said:
I stopped using 3v years ago as I feel that Cruwear has provided a better balance for me and it is very easy to get 62+ Rc. If you have not tried Cruwear I would highly recommend giving it a try.
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Or Z-Wear.

Seedy Lot said:
I stopped using 3v years ago as I feel that Cruwear has provided a better balance for me and it is very easy to get 62+ Rc. If you have not tried Cruwear I would highly recommend giving it a try.
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Yeah, CPM-Cruwear/Z-Wear looks like a better choice vs. 3V at 62 HRC and above.
 
Thescrawnylumberjack said:
I think you’re being far too conservative with your hardness.

I made a light chopper 7 inch blade .134 stock CPM 4V hardened to 63.3 HRC running .01 BTE with a 20 DPS edge and have never had a single issue with the edge. The only reason I say it’s a light chopper is that it doesn’t have a ton of mass to it.
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Probably. I tend to be risk averse until I'm thoroughly convinced, but after that I'm all in.
 
Adequate heat treat plus good geometry is better than superior heat treatment with bad geometry.

Most heat treat threads come from makers who don’t have everything necessary for proper heat treating. A furnace, cryo, foil, quench oil, rockwell tester etc…

Hoss
 
and even though those of us who do have the right equipment, chances are high that we might be dealing with variables beyond our control, making the minutae of the process largely irrelevant
 
Same here. Heat treating, to me, is by FAR the most favorite part of the whole experience, besides hearing back from clients! I have spent a lot lot lot of time studying and researching heat treatments of steel. Not that I could rattle off the minutiae details that Devin and Larrin are able to. To me it is fascinating. Lately it's been more about geometry! A LOT to learn there as well, and as was mentioned earlier, more important than heat treatment! It's been said often, I'll repeat the Landes quote, "Geometry cuts, heat treatment determines how long."
 
DevinT said:
Adequate heat treat plus good geometry is better than superior heat treatment with bad geometry.

Most heat treat threads come from makers who don’t have everything necessary for proper heat treating. A furnace, cryo, foil, quench oil, rockwell tester etc…

Hoss
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I've got a furnace, access to dry ice, plates, foil and 6 gallons of Park's 50. I need a rockwell tester so I can answer my own questions. But I think I have made good knives without one, just not the best I could make.
 
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