A question for Buck 119 USERS.

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wildmike

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Nov 17, 2007
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A question for 119 users who have experience with Bucks old 440C, and their newer BOS s30v.

How do they compare in performance?
 
I've used the 440C when I bought my first Buck, a 119. I used to cut the throat and gut my first Deer, ran out of ammo, it worked fantastic. Just had to sharpen it when I was done. I haven't field tested the s30v yet...
 
My reason for asking is that I have heard good things about the old 440C. But it is hard to come by. So I'm thinking of one in s30v.
 
My understanding is they are both good steel's it just that you have to sharpen the 440C more often, from what I have read...
 
I'm not using the Buck 119 as a deer hunting knife, but I have used a number of others (102 - 425MOD, 105 - 440C, 117 - 420HC, and 118 - 440C, 425MOD, & 420HC). My 440C Buck 118 will skin and debone 3 deer before getting noticeably duller, but the 420HC 118 I once had needed attention after just one deer. I have not used Buck S30V to skin and debone any deer, so no comparison there. OH
 
You guys are confirming what I have heard before. The 440C held an edge really well. But was tough to resharpen.

I would still like to hear some peoples experience with Bucks s30v.
 
I don’t have the 119 or any knives in 440c but I do have a 192 Vanguard, 110, and Vantage Pro all with bos s30v. They hold a real good edge for a lot longer than the 420hc. Sharpening is not to difficult when using diamond sharpeners but takes a bit more depending on your patience and skill. I try not to let them get very dull and just touch them up a bit when they aren’t as aggressive or take more force to cut usually after a lot of work. I haven’t been disappointed with exception to my small Vantage Pro which chipped along the fine edge using it to cut silicone rubber hose off of a rusted pipe. I don’t think it dulled as much as 420hc would have but it took a while to get the apex back to a fine edge. Bucks S30v has done very well for me and performs above my expectations.
 
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I don't think I'd want to strike bone with S30V...brittle as hell.The 420HC you want for a job like that.
 
Brittle? This is a common mistaken comment. There have been many complaints about S30V. It has only been known to have edge problems from a few makers. Those problems have been caused by the makers heat treat /sharpening process. It's any easy fix, just put your own edge on it. This is Buck and a Boss heat treat with a lifetime warranty. Buck S30V is not brittle. I have been using it since Buck has been producing it.
 
Frotier76 said:
I don't think I'd want to strike bone with S30V...brittle as hell.The 420HC you want for a job like that.
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Not in my experience has s30v had any problems of being brittle. As a matter of fact I’ve probably exposed my bos s30v knives to more punishment than my 420hc knives and never snapped or chunked a piece out of blade or any failures even on bone, horn or even Osage Orange. As I stated in my previous post I had the fine edge chip a little bit but a 420hc blade would have peeled off the fine edge in the same situation. Buck s30v is harder than their 420hc but it still is tough in normal usage.
 
SOLEIL said:
Brittle? This is a common mistaken comment. There have been many complaints about S30V. It has only been known to have edge problems from a few makers. Those problems have been caused by the makers heat treat /sharpening process. It's any easy fix, just put your own edge on it. This is Buck and a Boss heat treat with a lifetime warranty. Buck S30V is not brittle. I have been using it since Buck has been producing it.
Click to expand...

I can't speak on Buck's S30V but I can from the Lone Wolf Knives S30V hardened at 62rc.The steel works fine until it hits something dense then chips.Correct me if I'm but wasn't that why S35VN was created...to fix the chipping problem found in S30V?
 
I have a Lonewolf Harsey T-3. After sharpening just once, no more micro chipping.

I have quickly come to love my 119 in BOS 5160. So I'm wanting a stainless knife as well.

The reason I asked for users experience is my knives get used.
 
I have used my buck s30v to cut through the sternum and rib cage of a white tailed deer and it zipped through like it was leather. I can imagine if chopping or striking with it it’s possible to chip or chunk out a piece of blade, I haven’t tried. I’d rather use a hatchet or saw to get though heavy/ dense bone. But just cutting or slicing I just haven’t had any damage or problems contacting bone. I’ve had slips and struck bone but no damage at all.
 
I recall reading S30V had issues when it first came out but that those issues were corrected quickly and long ago now. I have never had a problem with S30V. I like it very much. I do not find it difficult to keep sharp or resharpen.

Here is what Buck says:

S30V Steel
This advanced steel, S30V, contains carbon as well as high amounts of Chromium, Molybdenum and Vanadium. This steel combines fantastic edge retention and high ductility combined with corrosion resistance. Double-tempered - it can be hardened to a Rockwell hardness of Rc 59.5-61. However, it is difficult to resharpen yourself, but we do offer sharpening services for a nominal fee.
 
I have compared both 440C & s30v in side by side cutting tests on sisal rope and processing meat birds. These were in the model 110's. Both are very good slicers. All blade steels will curl when bone is encountered, especially if you push cut through it. That said, 440C will process 8 birds and s30v will do 10. + / - one. I'm talking birds twice as large as you find in grocery stores. (10 lbs.) So, much larger bones.
Finding a 119 with s30v steel may prove to be a search but their out there. At Gun Shows I find older Buck's with 440C steel but you need to work the convex edge down or have a knowledgeable sharpener do it. Whereas, the s30v model will have a better edge profile and cost 3 times what I find the 440C model for. Just sharpen and go. Good luck, DM
 
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