A ROUND KNIFE WIP - UPDATED INFO

Discussion in 'Custom & Handmade Knives' started by TK Steingass, Dec 23, 2017.

  1. Darrin Sanders

    Darrin Sanders Knifemaker Moderator

    May 6, 2009
    Again, I'm grateful for all the info. shared. The last few posts have really clarified things for me. I'll be ordering a sheet of .040" AEB-L from Chuck tomorrow. Merry Christmas!
     
  2. sheathmaker

    sheathmaker Custom Leather Sheaths Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    May 18, 2005

    Paul the tracing above labeled "Danny Marlin" was my first custom knife about 20+ years old, and it was my go to knife for most of that time. it's made of L6 from a recycled circle saw blade ( I don't think M4, AEB-L and some of the other super steels were around then) and it's just as sharp and works as well as when it was new. It is slightly thicker, but still within the .040/.046 range. it still qualifies as one of my favorites among the ten In have.

    Paul
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2017
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  3. TK Steingass

    TK Steingass Knifemaker - Buckeye Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 16, 2010
    Greetings to all and Merry Christmas - Susan and I went over to her brother's house for Christmas dinner today....we left the house in the middle of a blizzard to get there. Tomorrow it's back to the shop after I dig us out of the snow - should be some photos of the work starting tomorrow. This will be a very straightforward build as this is not a Bruce Bump Cut & Shoot. :D
     
  4. TK Steingass

    TK Steingass Knifemaker - Buckeye Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 16, 2010
    Paul: I wouldn't fret too much on the use of 15n20 - it's a fine steel in it's own right. Blade geometry, heat treat, and finally type of steel (in order of importance) determine how a knife performs. I chose AEB-L simply because it's easily obtained in the .040" thickness, it's cheap, and I don't have to burn $9.00 ceramic belts up to thin out thicker stock. :)
     
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  5. Horsewright

    Horsewright KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 4, 2011
    For those going to use AEB-L I've gone to doing all my grinding post heat treat. I have done some out of thicker stock just grind more till you're at your target thickness. Running the bevel up higher does work but doesn't last, another reason I've gone to beveling the whole blade starting in front of the handle.

    This one was ground out of .070 stock, sometimes hard to find the 0.40.

    [​IMG]

    Its not that thick anymore. Back of the blade in front of the handle:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Behind the edge:

    [​IMG]

    Handle material doesn't seem to matter much and I've made em with or without bolsters. Doesn't seem to make much diff. I leave the corners of the handle a little more square then most ya see out there. Helps me index and keeps the knife in place while using. I do use them for hours at a time sometimes, the squareishness doesn't seem to bother my hand.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2017
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  6. Dawkind

    Dawkind Platinum Member Platinum Member

    Apr 3, 2000
    Great thread from those ‘in the know’...:cool:
     
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  7. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013
    I’ve made two in 15n20 so far, and they work quite well tempered to Rc62/63. The people who have them really like them. I did one in 52100 as well at Rc62. I’m copying these drawings above as I need a couple new round knives myself.
     
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  8. TK Steingass

    TK Steingass Knifemaker - Buckeye Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 16, 2010
    Paul recommended I build a round knife with the Joshua Field Handle and the Knip Knife head - so, here's the layout of the hybrid round knife on a .040" sheet of AEB-L

    Long-Head-Knife.jpg
     
  9. TK Steingass

    TK Steingass Knifemaker - Buckeye Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 16, 2010
    Here's the pair, cutout and ready for heat treatment. I am going to put a lanyard tube in these so you can hang it on a nail - there will be stainless bolsters/corby rivets. Not enough material to taper the tang on these guys! One is for Paul, one is for me. I'll austenitize for 15 minutes at 1940, plate quench and temper twice at 150 F. I should get around Rc 60-62 out of this heat treatment without cryo according to the heat treatment instructions provided by Alpha Knife Supply.

    AEB-L.jpg Long-Pair.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2017
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  10. TK Steingass

    TK Steingass Knifemaker - Buckeye Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 16, 2010
    Dave: The vernier caliper - is it Pre-Revolutionary War? :D
     
  11. coldsteelburns

    coldsteelburns

    Aug 2, 2010

    Thanks for the reassurance!

    It wasn't so much the 15n20 that I was a bit worried about but more so the stock thickness I have it in, at least after hearing Paul's standard of .04/.046" in thickness. Since I have yet to use any type of round knife and don't know the difference between a good cutting and great cutting one, I'm hoping the .06" stock won't bug me too much. ;)

    I might try to hog off some of the thickness prior to beveling, but we'll see how confident I am in doing do once I get it going.

    Thanks again for all the great advice!

    ~Paul
    My YT Channel
    Lsubslimed

    ... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2017
  12. Horsewright

    Horsewright KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 4, 2011
    Yes sir! It was Ben's. Ya know Ben Franklin. He used it a lot in his work. He got it from Paul, not Paul Long the leathersmith, Paul Revere, the silversmith. Seriously, try finding someone that can read it! Paul Mason is gonna help me learn to make folders. He said I had to get some digital ones.... geez.
     
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  13. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013

    Less than 10 minutes to thin it down. Not a problem.
     
  14. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013

    I had to count the slots on the caliper. :thumbsup:
     
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  15. Mecha

    Mecha Titanium Bladesmith Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 27, 2013
    Great thread, everyone. Just for comparison's sake, here are a couple of small rounded leather-cutting knives I made recently. They're simple but work pretty well. The middle one is used by Ms. Oye to cut leather for sheaths.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2017
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  16. coldsteelburns

    coldsteelburns

    Aug 2, 2010

    Yea, I kinda suck at getting things FLAT and parallel after hogging off a lot of material, at least on a surface area as large as a rounding knife plus tang. In order to do it "right" it tends to become quite a chore for me, but maybe I'm just being nit picky lol.

    Mech, those are too cool. Very neat idea for a rounding knife! :thumbsup:

    ~Paul
    My YT Channel Lsubslimed
    ... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
     
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  17. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013
    I want to say I’m not trying to be belligerent or arrogant. I took some measurements on one of my round knives I’ve been working on. If you look at the picture, the knife is 0.040” much higher than a flat 0.040” knife with a 1/2” bevel. I’m trying to understand why this would drag more than a 0.040” knife which is thicker closer to the edge? I believe the experts here. I’m trying to make sense of this. The leather never touches a part of my knife that is thicker than 0.030”. Everything past the black line is thinner than 0.040”.


    [​IMG]AB0F1D86-E733-4AF2-BBDF-F23F2AF3DA9D by Wjkrywko, on Flickr

    Paul, maybe I can send you this knife and you can tell me where or why it drags?
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2017
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  18. sheathmaker

    sheathmaker Custom Leather Sheaths Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    May 18, 2005
    100_4170.jpg Warren, based on your photo it probably won't drag.....if it is truly .040 all the way to the heavy black line, and then taken to zero at the edge with about a 1/4" bevel to add the convex strength to the edge. From this point it's going to be heat treat and bevel geometry to prove whether it performs or not. Keep in mind, I'm not a knife maker, just a user so I may be way off, but I do know what has worked well for me.

    The photo above is about the best I could get of the Knip Knife showing edge and bevel.

    Paul
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2017
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  19. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013
    The edge is at 0.002” right now. I’ll convex it to zero. I used my caliper set at 0.040” and the black line is where the steel dragged the caliper. This one is 15n20 heat treated to Rc62. I was aiming for Rc63, but over tempered a bit.

    Paul, I appreciate your comments and feedback. I’ll grind another one to 0.040” right to the handle and see if it feels different in use.
     
  20. synthesist

    synthesist So many knives so little time

    931
    Sep 14, 2004
    What a spectacular idea for a WIP thread. Great thinking TK.

    I'll be very interested in how this ends up

    Happy New Years all

    Corey " synthesist " Gimbel
     
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