A Silly (Stupid?) Question

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Feb 18, 1999
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Although I regularly use serrated Spyderco blades for cutting cardboard, twine, packaging, etc., I still have not yet had to sharpen them.

Is it, as so many seem to say, impossible to regain the original sharpness of serrations when you resharpen? I realize they will eventually round off, but aren't the corners of the rods on the Sharpmaker designed to sharpen serrations? Wouldn't the fact you only really sharpen one side (except to remove the wire edge) make it, in fact, easier?

I ask this because a gun show is coming up, and I plan to get a larger Spydie, possibly fully-serrated, like a Police...but I'd like to know if sharp serrated edges are just a one-time, temporary condition, or can they be restored by an average joe like myself with the 203.
Jim
 
I have used my 203 on my fully serrated Endura for a few years now. While I have never been able to get the super sharp edge it came with, I do get it sharp. The 203 or 204 is very simple to use. Go ahead and get one.


Blades
 
Maybe it`s just me, but I think my serrations seem sharper after a trip to the 204 than when they came out of the box. That seem "sticky" sharp to the touch. The serration seem to grab your fingertips when you touch them. I think that the way Spyderco cuts their serrations, plus the 204 Sharpmaker have made serrations a breeze to sharpen and maintain.
 
James, the Sharpmaker will do the job nicely.

Forget about that "wavy" edge Police Model that I carry. (I showed it to you). It was butchered by someone who tried to sharpen it with a flat stone. Didn't work. That's why he traded it to me for an Endura.

I carry it because it's not resellable and I don't like serrations anyway. That wavy edge works for me though. It sure makes for a lot of cutting edge for the blade length. Kind of like a one-sided kris.
smile.gif


See you at Del Mar.


------------------
Dennis Wright
Wright Knife & Sporting Goods
1-800-400-1980
("Have a knife day!")
wrightknife@ixpres.com
 
Is it, as so many seem to say, impossible to regain the original sharpness of serrations when you resharpen?

IMO, yes. You can come close, but it's difficult to match the original sharpness.

I realize they will eventually round off, but aren't the corners of the rods on the Sharpmaker designed to sharpen serrations?

The Sharpmaker corners allow the sharpener to reach into the serrations sufficiently to grind the edge in each "tooth". The rounding of the corners is a byproduct of the normal use of the 203/204 ("normal" being to draw the edge and points across the corners of the rods), but is incidental to the loss of sharpness in the individual teeth.

The problem is that the NIB sharpness comes from a variety of things. Each tooth is uniformly machine ground with a very shallow angle. It's difficult to match this uniformity by hand (even on a Sharpmaker). The NIB edge is probably also polished, and most people don't have a convenient means of stropping a serrated edge (tho I don't doubt there are ways to try).

Wouldn't the fact you only really sharpen one side (except to remove the wire edge) make it, in fact, easier?

Yes, except for the polishing/stropping as I mentioned above. Also keep in mind that by design, the 203/204 will NOT give your serrations the flat uniform angle they had NIB. The most shallow angle allowed on the 204 is 15 degrees (only 20 degrees on your 203), which is typically the bevel angle found on each side of a plain-edged Spydie. You can see (particularly on a combo-edge model) that the serrations are cut at a more extreme angle (relative to the plain edge). Hence each use of the 203/204 puts a small edge bevel on top of the primary bevel of the serrations.

This action has several benefits and drawbacks.

Plus:

- You can get a workable edge back on the serrations faster than if you tried to work the whole serration back down to the same angle.

- The resulting edge will be thicker (hence not as smooth-cutting), but will be stronger (less likely to chip, roll or dent).

Minus:

- You don't get the same silky smooth cutting action of the NIB edge.

IMO, the hair popping sharpness NIB was only good to impress people (and maybe myself). The serrations work just fine for everday tasks even if they're dull, so my hand-sharpening to less than NIB status is more than adequate for real work.

FWIW, I keep a plain-edge knife (usually Wegner Jr) with me also to impress people (and myself) with my sharpening technique. It can be done, and without too much difficulty on a plain-edge knife, but less so on a serrated edge.

You just have to ask yourself how important it is to slice toilet paper when deciding on that new knife. If NIB edges are important, then go with a plain-edge (I think that's why so many BF members do), but if a working knife is more important, go for the serrated if that's the nature of your work, and get over the loss of the NIB edge.

Like any marriage or relationship ... there's never anything else like the "first time", but you get over that when you realize you have a knife with an edge that'll never let you down when it counts.

[This message has been edited by Longden (edited 02-14-2000).]
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone!

I'm thinking possibly for the bigger knife i *might* go for the plain blade. I have noted my 203, in some cases, can get the plain edges even sharper than NIB, without sacrificing strength, though I still have my mid-sized and small serrated folders (we will see how I do when time comes for resharpening).
smile.gif

Jim
 
Don't forget, you can always just send it back to Spyderco and have them sharpen it properly.
 
Serrations -- here is my technique (use at your own risk):

Larger serrations: steel while twisting the steel then I use my homemade rounded strop (piece of dowel with leather impregnated with jeweller's rouge contact cemented to it). Out of the box sharp.

Smaller serrations: wizard AT VERY LOW SPEED with a Gatco (sp?) 1/8" fine ceramic rod. Brings out a great edge and keeps the teeth aligned.

That's what I do. Never 'burned' a blade, never produced ugly scratches along the lower part of the serration, never sharpened too thin. Always SHARP!!! and polished...

That's how I do it...
biggrin.gif


RLR

P.S. edit: I don't like the sound of some of the sentences here, but, it's the best I can do for now...

[This message has been edited by RLR (edited 02-14-2000).]
 
mnblade, I'm not sure that sending it back would guarantee a sharper serrated edge.

My understanding (and anyone can correct me) was that the factory's techs use the same stones and manual techniques for resharpening (I believe I read that from an older thread), so their results still can't equal NIB unless they actually regrind the serrations on a machine.

To be sure, after a couple of hundred knives, their technique is bound to be better than ours, but I think the limitation will still be there in that the edges will be double-beveled (primary and secondary on one side) and likely not polished.

I'm not sure that it's cost effective for them to do otherwise, nor perhaps would they want to remove any more metal than necessary (compared to evening out the bevel to a constant angle which would entail removing a lot of metal, comparatively speaking).
 
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