A small and humble suggestion for spyderco

I took a round diamond file , I think it's sold as a chainsaw sharpener but it's by lansky looks like a butter fly knife but it's a tapered diamond file usually what I do my notches with .

This time though instead of doing a 90 degree notch I did it at a 45 degree angle . It's actually sharp . Now it's not as sharp as the edge but it's sharp enough to if you snag on paper it'll keep going .
 
I have a couple of Spydercos and I made little choils on all of them. It's pretty easy with a dremel tool and a metal cutting disk.
 
I do not care for them as they cause more issues than they resolve. I can live with them and they will not keep me from buying a knife, but I would rather not have them.
 
I miss the a spyderco forums ! 2 people can disagree and discuss like adults and walk away no hard feelings.

Always! That's what this place is all about and that's why it's one of the few forums that I frequent. I honestly believe that hanging out on this forum and holding myself to the standard of conduct that we all seem to expect of each other here has even made me a better person in the outside world. Sounds kinda hokey but I think its true.
 
I don't own an edge pro, but from commentary I have read on here, it might be a bit more difficult to sharpen all the way to the heel with that system. I almost always use the Sharpmaker and it is easy to really get all the way in there with the triangle rods. When reprofiling with the diamond rods, I am able to get a razor sharp edge all the way to within a millimeter or two of the tang.

Hey Lance, I actually find the edge pro very handy in doing this. Let's me sharpen all the way to the heel without losing edge.

Bradley1sharpeningnotch_zps44bc2cf5.jpg
 
I don't own an edge pro, but from commentary I have read on here, it might be a bit more difficult to sharpen all the way to the heel with that system. I almost always use the Sharpmaker and it is easy to really get all the way in there with the triangle rods. When reprofiling with the diamond rods, I am able to get a razor sharp edge all the way to within a millimeter or two of the tang.

Hey Lance, I actually find that I can easily do this with the EP. Let's me sharpen all the way to the heel without a notch so I don't lose any edge. I just flattened part of the heel so I could get at the whole edge.

Bradley1sharpeningnotch_zps44bc2cf5.jpg
 
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This is an interesting thread. Thanks for the input.
Both work for me but the sharpening choil does make sense.
rolf
 
I abhor them. Snag on material and have no functional purpose IMO. I would rather have a 1/4 inch steel at the heel that is not at optimal sharpness than a notch that will snag material. On top of that, I have no issues keeping my edge bevel straight and sharp all the way to the tang, even on my daily users that are years old and have seen hundreds of sharpening. As someone else stated, you can always cut your on sharpening notch but you can't put the steel back once its gone. A sharpening notch is pretty much a deal breaker for me on a design. Hate em!! Hehe, later I'll tell you how I really feel. :rolleyes: :p

One suggestion I would make to those who use the sharpmaker is when starting at the heel, tilt the handle out just a couple degrees allowing the corner of the rod to get all the way to where the edge meets tang. As you continue the stroke you can bring the handle back in. I do this consistently when sharpening and never have any issues with irregular wear or sharpness.

Everything he said is right on.
 
Lance,

With my limited skill, a sharpening notch is useful rather than trying to get in there and resulting in the straight/belly ground more than necessary (as described by Ken/Unit in the video I linked). I have seen this repeatedly on my knives that the first thing I do when sharpening a new knife is to check & create the notch if there's recurve at the plunge.
It seems you are ok with sharp notch as it won't hung up.
I also agree to let people who need do it themselves and those who hate it not having it pre-made :D.

Chuck,

I had to do the notch on my GB. Your skill is much better (even if you use EP, it's the user not the tools) :thumbup:
 
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I had not paid the sharpening choil much mind before this thread. Having read other responses, I say to each their own. If you like it, go for it. I also think the choil acts in the same manner as a serration, as has been noted, to which I am not a fan.

Like Lance noted in his post regarding the Sharpmaker and its ability to get extremely close to the heel, my experience has been the same. No problems at all. The technique that works for me is to start with the heel up against the corner of the rod. I just go slow and make sure the heel is in place before I start the draw.
 
I absolutely cannot stand sharpening choils. Mabe they could add one for you like was mentioned , but I really hope they don't produce them with one
 
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